nustad

Howdy all, I have done a search on the forums and didn't find an answer easily.....anyway I have an R200 ready to come out from a junker 280zx and the rear mount doesn't have enough play to slip off the big pin sitting in the chassis or off the bolts from the rear cover. The diff moves but I can't get enough play to get the rear mount off. It all sounds so easy in the Haynes Manual!!! :stupid: :cross-eye The only other idea I have is cutting the rubber on the rear mount to see if I can get it off. Any tips from the wise with cuts on their knuckles Cheers Glenn Martin New Zealand

Howdy all, I have a 1972 240z and the diff whines like hell from 45 to 65 mph which I am assuming is wear in the gear set rather than bearings. The car has 90k original miles from what I can tell. Any thoughts - I don't see many people posting about diff noise. I have a spare diff out of a 72 240 - is there anyway of assessing its condition without doing a full tear down? I also have a couple of R-200 diffs but not the 280z moustache bar so will probably leave those for now. In New Zealand getting a 280z moustache bar is a mission. Just out of interest does anyone know what ratio a diff out of a 280zx with the L20a motor would be? Cheers Glenn

Howdy, I am pulling apart an L28 for the first time and can't seem to get the intake manifold off. I have taken all the bolts out from the top of the intake and it won't budge. There is one bolt at the front of the engine but it looks like the exhaust manifold bolt. Are there any bolts other than ones next to the injectors? I have put some wood on there and given it a bash but it is still solid. Cheers Glenn

Roger, I have one in Auckland (NZ) - it will need sand blasting and a repaint but it is all there. The previous owner got it chromed but it was a bad job so now it has all flaked off and it is covered in surface rust Make an offer if you like - postage won't be much Cheers Glenn

Hello all, Have just replaced my carbs with Ztherapy ones and have noticed that the carbs drain fuel over a couple of days and when I start the car I have to wait for the fuel system to refill. I guess I have a leak and intend to put some newspaper under the carbs after starting the car from cold and then shutting off. if there are blotches on the paper then I guess I have found the leak. However I was wondering if there is something else I need to check - fuel return system perhaps? Cheers Glenn

It is worth taking it to a garage with a exhaust sniffer as it may be running rich down low like mine but leans out at higher revs. To get the right mixture at 3000rpm I have to run it rich at idle. Still have to diagnose why............... Cheers Glenn

Try getting a wheel alignment too

A friend of mine lost control of the car we were in and drove it into the ditch. There was a tree stump in the ditch that broke the grill and knocked the cap and its mounting point off the radiator. We were in the sticks and closest settlement was MacLennan (in the Catlins on the South Island of New Zealand) First house we went to we got chased away by Grandma with a shotgun........ Second place (the only other option) was a hippie bus. The guy was pretty rough and his wife rougher......Anyway he started up the bus which hadn't moved for 12 months and drove to where the car was and pulled us out. We found the front was a mess so he towed the car back to his camp site. By this stage we had established his wife was a reformed alcoholic, drug addict anorexic.....he was a reformed alcholic and was on the benefit from being poisoned at work. Anyways you find real rough diamonds out there. He put some shade cloth on the car as a grill and jb welded the radiator back together. Considering that puppy was under pressure and wet I was amazed it held together all the way back to Dunedin (3 Hours) My first introduction to JB weld was a goodun!!!

BTW that green 240z from Fourways appears in the Classic Car mag from the UK compared with a Ferrari Dino and one other car - might be a 911 - we haven't got the mag in New Zealand yet. One of the previous editions did a short profile of Fourways Engineering and he had a Z432 in there for restoration. In terms of tyre size I am also interested in width and have just moved from 205/70/14 on some old wheels to 195/60/15 modern rubber on some Watanabe wheels. My standard Z doesn't have enough power to overwhelm the 205 series tyres (Dunlop Daytonas) so thought I would lighten up the handling/steering with grippier but narrower rubber. Personally I have not heard much debate about the "REAL" need to move to wide tyres 225+ unless you have heaps of HP. I haven't got the wheels on the car yet but are looking forward to lighter steering and perhaps a more agile car that doesn't tramline as much. THOUGHTS????? Cheers Glenn Auckland New Zealand

If you have bare, freshly bead blasted alloy wheels then you do need to coat them otherwise they will begin to oxidise. You can wax them.....doesn't last long You can powder coat them clear - haven't done this myself but probably a good way to go You can paint them with a clear paint. I painted mine with Por-15 Clear which is designed for alloy. It is certainly clear and hard but it needs to be sprayed on for really good results. You can brush it on as it is self levelling but I would only do this on wheels you are not particularly attached to. Cheers Glenn