V8-240Z

Since the output of the alternator loops through the ammeter before going to the fuse box I would say that something needs to be changed. Any addon accessory past the ammeter/fuse box will push the ammeter to its limit or over. The 75 280Z used a shunt under the hood to drive the ammeter with its millivolt output going to the ammeter that is actually a millivolt meter with a amp scale on it. Then in about 76 the ammeter was changed to a volt meter.

What happens with the 240Z ammeter when a alternator upgrade is done with a alternator that puts out about twice the amps that the ammeter is rated at? A 45 amp ammeter and a 85 amp alternator. I would think that a ammeter should be matched to the alternator output.

59 and not getting any younger. I call Oortland Oregon my home and have for the last 59 years.

Did you remove the outer steel sleeve?

What would a calendar clock for a 280Z be worth?

I don't often get on a band wagon but I had to make a exception here. I simply told him. About your radio, I have owned every year 240Z and I can tell you and be 100% positive that radio as it sets did not come from a 240Z. That face plate is 260Z to 280Z and will not fit any stock 240Z heater control bezel.

Sent you a PM

Hi Nick, I did the V8 swap on my 71 using the Jags That Run kit. PM me if you are looking for more information.

This is beginning to sound like a wood working forum I used to belong to where a member wanted to know if sucking vapors out on a paint can with a straw before it was sealed up was dangerous. Can we say drain bamage oh I meant to say brain damage.

The easy way to do the battery disconnect is with a Intellitec latching relay. http://www.mastertech-inc.com/intellitec/batt_disconnect_relay.html This is not a starter relay, it disconnects the battery with the flip of a switch or reconnects the battery with a flip of the switch. The only power used is momentary when connecting or disconnecting the battery. These are $50 and can be mounted by the battery with the on/off control wires that can be 16ga going to a toggle switch in the car. These work well and can replace the standard battery disconnect rotary switch that is used.

I am up here in Portland and I have the correct head for a 77-78 280Z. The head is complete and ready to bolt on. Since we are close shipping is not bad and its 1 or 2 days away. Send me a PM, actually I sent you one already.

If you are going to do any wiring this eBay seller has new Buss ATO 8, 14 and 20 fuse boxes for sale. He has a lot of them but they are selling fast!!! 20 fuse box $2.50 each eBay #150042862956 14 fuse box $2.00 each eBay #150044122134 8 fuse box $1.50 each eBay #150011073765

I found out that there are at least two types of tachs for the 240Z and 260Z-280Z. One type is a four wire positive trigger tach used on the 240Z and the other is a three wire negative trip tach. The 4 wire type in the 240Z has one wire that sends positive voltage to the tach, one wire is for ground and the other two leads are the trigger loop, one coming and the other going. From past experience I have found that this type of tach is very unreliable. The 3 wire type of tach is more reliable and more adaptive to aftermarket modifications to the ignition system. The 3 wire type has a positive lead, a ground and a negative trip lead that runs directly from the male bullet post on the back of the tach to the negative terminal on the coil. Looks like ZX ignition may need 2.2K resistor inline from the bullet post that goes direct to the "-" post on the coil. The ZX tach resistor is 2.2K ohms, 1 watt, and part number 7321-9300. You will know the resistor is needed if the tach jumps all over. OK, here is what I have done with my 240Z. I removed my old 4 wire tach and replaced it with the three wire. Put the new 260Z-280Z tach guts in the 240Z metal housing, and swap the faceplates to keep the redline accurate. The needle pops off, don't damage it. One important detail in the wiring. The ground wire and the power wire are reversed between the 240Z tach and the 260Z-280Z tach. Connect the 260Z-280Z tach's sensor lug back to the negative terminal on the coil. This is the male bullet post on the back of the tach. This will take a wire you will need to add, 16-18ga will be just fine. My 240Z is a V8 but the swap is the same for the L6 the only thing I did different was to turn the calibration screw on the back of the tach so it would read correctly for a V8. NOTE: Make sure you reverse the power leads on the back of the tach, compare them before you swap you will notice the + and - are reversed. The little "loop" from the 240Z tach is a + pulse trigger and is simply left alone with this swap. Just push it aside. If you cut it the car won't start. (Don't ask)

Just found this on eBay, It looks like it bolts in but there is nothing in my 71 quite like that. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250035195533

Here is a link to a 72 wiring diagram that has more detail and easier to follow than the AutoZone one. http://s170049317.onlinehome.us/V8-240z/Files/Datsun/Wiring/72_240z_wiring.pdf

A R200 mustache bar will not fit a R180 because the R200 has wider bolt spacing on the rear cover. The correct R180 mustache bar sit just in front of the 2 vertical risers and the R200 mustache bar sits just behind the vertical risers.You will also need the curved transverse link brace.

Here is a picture of a template for a 71 http://s170049317.onlinehome.us/V8-240z/Files/Datsun/Aircond/70-73Parts/71AC5.jpg And this folder has some other stuff in it http://s170049317.onlinehome.us/V8-240z/Files/Datsun/Aircond/70-73Parts/

I bought one a couple years ago from Schucks auto parts and it still works well. The length is correct but one end has a threaded stud that is larger that the hole in the mounting bracket, so I drilled the hole larger. This is the only new strut I could find that will work on the 240Z as a replacement for the single strut. Other than the difference in the mounting stud it does look the same as the stock one. Tail Gate strut Dorman # C072-430 (Schucks) $19.99 Mighty Lift # 95019 (from Autozone) $15.99 The actual application for this strut is. 200SX Hatch 1980-83 C072-430 Celica Hatch 1982-85 C072-430 Corolla Sta. Wagon w/o Rear Wiper Hatch 1979-83 C072-430

That is a question I have no answer for. The shunt pictured is from my 75 that has a 60-60 Amp gauge. One from a late 74 may work if it had the 60-60 amp gauge.

The shunt is just under the fuseable links on the right side and has 2 plugs on the end. One plug has the 10ga main wires and the other plug has 16ga wires that go to the amp meter. The two 2 Amp fuses inside are for the 16ga leads to the amp meter. Here are a couple pictures of the shunt, and it sorta looks like a regulator. http://s170049317.onlinehome.us/V8-240z/Files/Datsun/Gauges/280Z_Shunt-1.JPG http://s170049317.onlinehome.us/V8-240z/Files/Datsun/Gauges/280Z_Shunt.JPG

I have a 2/71 dash and on my Z 8/71 the brackets are spot welded. If Phil's is gone how did they remove it?

On my 71 that had the 45-45 amp meter the shunt resistor is in the amp meter and I could clearly see where it had over heated by being pushed past the gauge limits. I have my alternator output now going straight to the battery + instead of into the white 10ga wire that is next to the alternator where it used to go. I did this to get the heavy charge loads off the old wiring. I am running a V8 but the charge limits/requirement are really the same since some of the internally regulated alternator upgrades are using the GM alternator. The volt meter is really a better way of montoring the overall battery condition and charge circuit.

That is exactly what I did and then I got the + for the voltmeter from that connection and just grounded the - side. The other way to power the volt meter would be off a circuit that is turned on by the ignition switch.

I found this doing a search http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=427262&t=427262 On my 71 240Z I replaced the 45-45 amp meter with a volt meter from a 77-78 280Z. Any of the high output alternator conversions will overload the stock shunt and burn it out like a fuse. The Voltmeter swap was a bolt in. I even wired in the red charge light that is in the volt meter face.

What is the length of the 69-early 71 Driveshaft and the length of the late 71 up driveshaft? Is the automatic different? The measurement I need is center to center of the U-joints.