V8-240Z

They are from Sears, they call them Roadhander. I bought the first set of them in 1999 and they do say made in USA. I exchanged them earlier this year and the new ones had the same part number but these are made in Venezuela. The fronts are part number: 734602

Steve, to be honest I never thought about using a fender washer and rubber washer on the inside. I only have rubber washers between the bumper and fender. After following this thread I am going to do the fender washers and rubber washers in the inside this afternoon. The metal is so thin it even pulled the bolt into the car and left a depression. I must have been having one of those days when I put the bumpers on.

Deleted because the last post went in twice

The washers are called closit tank washers in the plumbing industry and can be found in 2 different diameters with the largest being 1 1/8" in diameter. Find a plumbing supply house that the plumbers buy from and they come in a box of 100 and can be bought one at a time for $.25 each. http://www.hardwareworld.com/Rub-Tank-Bolt-Washr4-p5GDUEJ.aspx http://www.sealenterprises.com/detail.asp?sku=5350301 http://www.doityourself.com/invt/9198649

Go to Ace hardware and get a package of these. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1273193 These are a cloth insert rubber washer that goes between the bolt head and the toilet tank. These are perfect for the early Z's. They last forever and are soft enough to protect the paint from the end bumper mount that bolts to the body.

I will be there Sunday for sure.

My experience with the 240Z springs is the rear are made with a slightly thicker wire. If you don't have a micrometer a cresent will work to see the difference.

If the fire is electrical or became electrical because of a short after the insulation has burned away its nice to have a pair of electrical cable cutters to disconnect the battery in a hurry. Harbor freight sells it for $5.99. Just try to disconnect a side terminal battery is a hurry. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40507

I am the one that makes the puller that Gary (beandip) loans out. I have more information on the puller at the link below. That is a nice drawing and explanation about how to make and use the tool on zhome.com http://www.s94643514.onlinehome.us/SpindlePinPuller/

I just could not resist, But I may have to with draw my bid. Nope I will leave it alone, I am not near the reserve.

I have one on my 71 240Z. Its permently bolted to the bottom of the radiator core support. There are 2 bar attachment points just below the front valance. My experience in towing Z's with this setup is that they don't tow well at all with out a engine in them. If the z is complete they tow well.

Ya got my vote also, its this thread that dead not Norris.

I don't think that JB Weld will work, but if that is the last option can you JB Weld in studs and once its set up use nuts on the studs.

How about a new light in the right side? If its a old headlight it will tend to be not as bright as the new one.

I down loaded it when it first came online and I have a working copy of it. Now when I down load it the file is a different size and won't open. E-mail me V8-240Z@juno.com and I will attach the working copy I have and send it back

The early 240Z boosters had a smaller bolt pattern than the later ones. The small one is the booster from a 71. They say that you can re-drill the holes but the booster bolts in to and secures the basket that holds the pedals. The large one is a 280 booster Dave...

This calls for a group HUG!!!!!!!

This place is starting to look and feel like home again.

I had a good time as did Connie and our son Cameron. Its nice to meet with the people that you only know as a screen name. Next time if all goes well with my Z I will bring it.

Give this a shot, Does it look like what you have? http://63.230.165.175:8884/Files/Datsun/Fuel/Fuel-Filter/screen.jpg Here is another one http://63.230.165.175:8884/Files/Datsun/Fuel/Fuel Pump Fix.htm I have a couple of those pumps here and I can see no reason for it not to work. Dave

What about the screeen that is inside the pump inlet port?

The real fun begins when time comes to pull the spindle pins.

Just use a punch and drive it up and out. With the nut broken off there nothing holding it any more. The retaining pin is put in from the top.

Does the car appear to be not running? or have expired tags on it? Some cities require current tags even on cars parked on private property. Look up the trespassing laws for your state, you may find they trespassed. If the car in on your property post a simple No Trespassing sign and tell them to get off your property.

I just used a basic 12V charger that was rated at 10 amp. There will about 1 to 3 amps of charging current at the start and rising to about 4 or 5 amps. You could use a car battery and the charger to keep it charged. But put a head light in series between the battery and the electrode so a dead short will just make the light bright. The light will glow as this contraption is working I did mine a little different but still the same results. I used a garage sale stainless steel sink. http://67.42.8.86:8884/Files/Datsun/Rust/ After a a few days the sink gave up and I cut it up and used the plastic bucket with what was left of the sink for the + electrode