V8-240Z

Fits with out re-drilling, but you will have to trim the steel mounting shell on the radiator so it will fit between the frame rails. And it does hang below the radiator core support

I have the video here, its a 12 meg D/L http://67.42.8.86:8884/Files/Datsun/Darius-Video/wangan.mpeg Or you can get it from here http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Darius/Daruis-Video/wangan.mpeg "Right Click And Save As"

Years ago my sister was in Australia and you could not drive with the window open and your arm hanging out. She sent me pictures of this plastic thing that went into window opening that made it legal to drive with your arm hanging out. Is it still that way?

Is your strap built into the arm rest like our 280Z's or is the strap seperate like we have on the 70-73 240Z's?

Here in the US on our 240Z's 70-73 there is a strap to pull the door shut on the passenger side (right side in our cars) but the drivers side only has the arm rest. You could call it a assist grip but I thought it was a door pull. However my wife calls it a Jesus Christ bar because that is what she says just before she grabs it. I just looked it up in the factory service manual and its called "assist strap for assistant side only" I actually think that its there so they have something to grab on to when the car is moving.

My 71 has the threaded holes in the drivers door and knock outs in the door pannel for one. Does this mean that right hand drive cars have them on the left but not on the right? as ours have them on the right but not on the left?

I started the 800 meg collection years ago and still have it up and running at www.V8-240Z.com To get to the collection click on the morphing Z at the top and follow directions. There is new stuff being added all the time.

I put a 75 280Z radiator in my 71 240Z and it bolted in with out any modifications to the car. However the radiator will hang below your lower core support. The radiator mounting flange has the same bolt spacing as the 240 but it to be ground so it will fit between the 240z's frame rails. All in all the 280Z radiator will work but the bottom tank is a a vulnerable area. I cut a piece of 2in square tubing and bolted it to the bottom of the core support to protect the radiator. The lower radiator connection sticks straight out and is not curved up like the 71. The upper is the same.

I buy my plastic film in a roll from Tap Plastics. Its 5 mill thick and comes in a 2ft wide roll thats 50ft long. My viewing window is 2 ft wide and 1 foot high. I have most of the 50 foot roll left I will cut and mail a piece for your blaster as long as each piece is no bigger than 2ft X 1 Ft for $1.25 each piece shipping included. This film does not replace the viewing window it just covers the glass. A bead blaster is not going to be as hard on the film as a sand blaster.

Mine is the Trinco Master model 36 and I run it with a 5hp 2 stage Champion compressor. The H/F ones will do well with a couple minor changes. Get a PVC male pipe X PVC hub adapter where the hub fits the end of your shop vac hose. Then put the PVC adaper in your cabinet with a nut on the inside to hold it in place. Then you will have a leak proof connection. My Trinco just had a large hole to stick the suction hose into and it leaked bad. The next thing is the light. H/F uses a light bulb screwed into a socket inside the cabinet. Trinco uses a Fluorescence light on top of the cabinet that looks through a piece of plastic. You need to move the light outside the cabinet. My viewing glass is protected on the inside with a very thin sheet of plastic that comes by the roll. I have to change it after a couple of hours of use to see. I run it at 85 pounds and blast everything. The parts come out nice and ready for paint. The best paint I have found is Krylon. I think you will be happy with the H/F cabinet as long as you bought one big enough. If you using glass beads in the cabinet I found that H/F beads work well. If your using sand get it from Home Depot and buy pay box sand. I have never tried sand except in a small hand held blaster that looks like paint gun, and boy are they messy!

I have a Trinco bead blast cabinet and the different tips are for varying size air compressors. The large tip consumes a lot of air and the small tip will use less air. Start with the small tip and work your was up unil the compressor can just stay ahead of the air consumption. You will need to hook a shop vac to the H/F blast cabinet or you will never be able to see anything.

I just went through this when I wired the electric fuel pump to the stock wiring in my 71Z. The black wire at the fuel pump is grounded to the chassis at some point between the pump and the dash. to run the pump you simply need to supply 12+ to the green wire in the harness behind the radio. Its a mystery to me where the black wire in the harness behind the radio goes. What I did on the rest of the wiring was to use the oil pressure switch to control the pump with the 3rd connection going to the starter solenoid to run the pump when its cranking since using the oil pressure only will prevent the pump from running until the car starts. Last but I felt most important I put a fuel pump inertia shut off switch in the car on the drivers kick panel and wired it between the fuel pump side of the relay and the green wire in the harness behind the radio. I did not cut up the harness I simply used a male spade connector and shoved it into the green side of the plug to make the connection. The inertia fuel pump shut off switch will shut off the power to the pump in the event you have a accident. It also will shut it off if you hit a speed bump going too fast. It happened too me once when I had the intertia switch under the hood. That is the reason I moved it in to the car where I can reach it. That one time is the only time it has shut off. The inertia switch has a red reset button that you simply push to reset it. The inertia switch is from any fuel injected Ford from 1980-2000. its in the trunk on the left side behind a panel that is almost always marked that the emergency fuel cut off is behind it. Be shure to cut the harness as far back as you can when removing the switch. With out the 2 wire harness its going to be hard to connect A anti theft fuel pump switch can be placed before or after the inertia switch to cut power to the fuel pump if you want. I have a couple extra inertia fuel pump shut off switches if any one is looking to do this modification and does not want to go to a wrecking yard to get one.

http://www.westcoastmetric.com/

I spent the last 30min searching the forums for the solution to the little problem I am having and have not really found a answer. I put a electric fuel pump in my 71 and used the wiring that is in the car for a electric fuel pump. I have the fuel pump connected to the existing wires for a electric fuel pump that are at the tank sending unit. The - wire that is in the harness is grounded to the chassis at some point. The + wire goes to a T plug that was taped to the wire harness behind the radio with blue tape. At this time there is no battery in the car and I am running the fuel pump off of a 12V power source connected to the T connector behind the radio and grounded to the chassis. The car has not been running in 6 years so I installed a electric fuel pump with a filter before it and a filter up front and I am pumping Kerosene out and back in to the tank to clean it up. I will leave the fuel pump and filters and use them once I get the car running. My questions are 1)Where does the other wire go that is in the T connector? 2)Did the dealer use a relay and where was it? 3)Where was the fuse they used (In Line?) I want to use as much of the factory wiring as I can in this conversion.

A bump stop from these guys is just what your looking for instead of gluing something in or cutting up a motor mount http://energysuspension.com/pages/bsp2.html

I do still have the limiter brackets for $15 shipped to your door. The LSD brace is a part I no longer have because my machinist went out of business. I have info on my web page www.V8-240Z.com

Yup I still make them. $85 complete shipped to your door. Or I sell the transition adapter and threaded rod for $35 shipped to your door, if you want to build the rest yourself.

If you go to my web page www.V8-240Z.com there are pictures of the pin pullers and directions on how they are made.

This Z just came up on a local forsale forum. This is not my Z and I don't know anything about it other than what the ad says. http://pdxforsale.com/?ad=156607&cat=

This is what I have listed for the ZX outer axle nut. Outer axle flange nut for 24OZ-28OZ PN 43262-W12O2 (28OZX part)

I fixed the link again.

Can you simply pay the guy $1 for the part and tell him to repost it? Then in the feed back state that you paid the $1 but feel the shipping was a bit high at $23? You paid for the part at the price it closed at.

What year 240Z? I have one from a 72. Its different than the 71Z and I don't know about the 73Z.

The Spindle-Pin-Puller that Gary has is one I made. I have more info here http://www.linfoot.net

I have a 93 Olds Achieva 5 speed that is all cable linkage. I came back from the U-Pull-It today after the bushings for the linkage. Almost all early to late 90's GM FWD cars are cable. Grand Am, Baratta, Achieva. Sunfire, Skylark Cavalier, Malibu, Alero many to choose from.