V8-240Z

Gary. the studs are a 12mm but I think they are 1.25 thread pitch. The spindle pin puller is a 12X1.25mm see if that will easily thread on to the studs.

Enrique, I have a curved transverse link brace he can have if that will help. I am over here in NE Portland. E-mail me if he wants it. V8-240Z@juno.com

Gary, Your car is a 73 and it should already have the curved transverse link brace.

Gary, What your talking about is a rear transverse link brace that is curved. Your 240 should already have a curved one on it. Only the 70-71 had the straight ones.

Try it again its fixed.

A quick search found the following contact info: Innovator Race Engine Technology Ltd 22513 Mylls St St clair Shores, Michigan 48081 Administrative Contact: Dutko, David ddutko@comcast.net Innovator Race Engine Technology Ltd 22513 Mylls St St clair Shores, Michigan 48081 (586) 293-8623 Technical Contact: Dutko, David ddutko@comcast.net Innovator Race Engine Technology Ltd 22513 Mylls St St clair Shores, Michigan 48081

Brandon, The IP is open to all and should work for you. I am not getting any error messages from the server software.

After a request as to where the 500 megs of Z car stuff went to. I upgraded the link to my new IP. After the change was made I checked to see if it was working, and it was. After a couple hours and a reply or two the entire thread just disappeared. So with out further adoo (Or something like that) here it is. Over 800 megs of Z stuff

Carl, I also found that the 500 megs of Z stuff had gone away. I corrected the IP and checked to see if it worked and went to play in the snow with my son. When I returned it was GONE. So here is is again, but it is now over 800 meg. 800 Megs of Z car stuff

Looking through my notes I came up with the brake line to pressure differential warning light switch. I did the ZX master cylinder swap on my 71 and was going to order a couple of these but found some used ones that I made work. If you get them let me know if they were correct. Part #: 46241-E4601 List: $4.64

When I replaced my 71 tail gate strut (single strut car) I bought the Dorman # C072-430 from Schucks for $19.99 It worked perfect all I had to do was drill out the bracket on the hatch so the strut stud would fit.The Mighty Lift # 95019 from Autozone for $15.99 is also supposed to work but I have not seen it or tried it.

Its hard enough on us adults when we loose a pet but having raised a family I find that the kids take it rather hard. This last time around we got a Amazon Parrot and this guy will out live me by many years. I just need to break him from calling me a asshole when things don't go his way. Actually my kids can break him when I am gone in 30 or 40 years.

Now that I have your interest what I am looking for is one of the old Virgin WebPlayers, do you know of any that are forsale? This is not a joke, I know it sounds like one. Three years ago they sold this device for $50 a year on a 3 year contract. For the $50 a year you got unlimited Internet access but they went out of business last year.

When I did my 71 I first tried to press out the outer sleeves and when that did not work I then tried to drive them out. I think that I had collapsed the control arm by the time I was done. If yours with the bushings installed measures 5 5/16" between them it will fit the strut if not you have to spread it with the all thread rod.

If you have left the outer sleeve in the control arm it also has to be removed. This is the same for either the front or rear control arms. I have found the only safe way to remove the outer sleeves is to carefully cut them with a hack sawblade without cutting in to the control arm. Then you use a chisel to collapse the shell. I used a threaded rod and a couple nuts and washers to pull the urethane bushings and sleeves in place. I have found that once the urethane bushings and inner sleeves are in the control arm it won't fit on to the rear strut!!! so the fix is to put only the outer bushing and sleeves on to the control arm. Now put a one foot long piece of 5/8" all thread rod through the control arm and with 2 nuts and washers on the inside and spread the opening so it measures 5 1/2" from the inner faces of the control arm (there are no inner bushings) Now once the threaded rod is removed the control arm will spring back some. Using the threaded rod again put the inner bushings in place on each side and with the nuts and washers pull the inner and outer bushings and sleeves in place. The control arm between the bushings now should measure 5 5/16" If you still need to spread the opening some DON'T DO IT WITH THE BUSHINGS IN PLACE the force of spreading the control arm will tear up the bushings. I also had a inner sleeve that would not fit over the pin.I took a 1/4" bolt cut the head off and hack sawed a slot in the end so I could chuck it in to my drill and with a strip of emery paper I honed the inner sleeve so it would fit on the pin.

I made a simple bracket that prevents the front differential mount from moving around. It also ends any possibility of breaking the mount. <a href="http://12.224.138.56:8884/Files/Datsun/LSD-Brace/Diff-Mount.htm">Click Here!</a>

Both of my Z's have a differential mount support bracket on them. These are easy to make or I will sell you one for $15. www.linfoot.net

When I did this job I made a spindle pin extraction tool. Ok we can call it a puller for short. The job was not bad at all. I even went to the local wrecking yard to further test the tool and I pulled 6 pins and on the 7th the end of the pin broke offf. I was even able to come back with extra pins. I have further info on making the tool and a couple docs on how I used it. http://12.224.138.56:8884/Files/Datsun/Strut-Pin-Tool/