V8-240Z

I have a Trinco bead blast cabinet and the different tips are for varying size air compressors. The large tip consumes a lot of air and the small tip will use less air. Start with the small tip and work your was up unil the compressor can just stay ahead of the air consumption. You will need to hook a shop vac to the H/F blast cabinet or you will never be able to see anything.

I just went through this when I wired the electric fuel pump to the stock wiring in my 71Z. The black wire at the fuel pump is grounded to the chassis at some point between the pump and the dash. to run the pump you simply need to supply 12+ to the green wire in the harness behind the radio. Its a mystery to me where the black wire in the harness behind the radio goes. What I did on the rest of the wiring was to use the oil pressure switch to control the pump with the 3rd connection going to the starter solenoid to run the pump when its cranking since using the oil pressure only will prevent the pump from running until the car starts. Last but I felt most important I put a fuel pump inertia shut off switch in the car on the drivers kick panel and wired it between the fuel pump side of the relay and the green wire in the harness behind the radio. I did not cut up the harness I simply used a male spade connector and shoved it into the green side of the plug to make the connection. The inertia fuel pump shut off switch will shut off the power to the pump in the event you have a accident. It also will shut it off if you hit a speed bump going too fast. It happened too me once when I had the intertia switch under the hood. That is the reason I moved it in to the car where I can reach it. That one time is the only time it has shut off. The inertia switch has a red reset button that you simply push to reset it. The inertia switch is from any fuel injected Ford from 1980-2000. its in the trunk on the left side behind a panel that is almost always marked that the emergency fuel cut off is behind it. Be shure to cut the harness as far back as you can when removing the switch. With out the 2 wire harness its going to be hard to connect A anti theft fuel pump switch can be placed before or after the inertia switch to cut power to the fuel pump if you want. I have a couple extra inertia fuel pump shut off switches if any one is looking to do this modification and does not want to go to a wrecking yard to get one.

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I spent the last 30min searching the forums for the solution to the little problem I am having and have not really found a answer. I put a electric fuel pump in my 71 and used the wiring that is in the car for a electric fuel pump. I have the fuel pump connected to the existing wires for a electric fuel pump that are at the tank sending unit. The - wire that is in the harness is grounded to the chassis at some point. The + wire goes to a T plug that was taped to the wire harness behind the radio with blue tape. At this time there is no battery in the car and I am running the fuel pump off of a 12V power source connected to the T connector behind the radio and grounded to the chassis. The car has not been running in 6 years so I installed a electric fuel pump with a filter before it and a filter up front and I am pumping Kerosene out and back in to the tank to clean it up. I will leave the fuel pump and filters and use them once I get the car running. My questions are 1)Where does the other wire go that is in the T connector? 2)Did the dealer use a relay and where was it? 3)Where was the fuse they used (In Line?) I want to use as much of the factory wiring as I can in this conversion.

A bump stop from these guys is just what your looking for instead of gluing something in or cutting up a motor mount http://energysuspension.com/pages/bsp2.html

I do still have the limiter brackets for $15 shipped to your door. The LSD brace is a part I no longer have because my machinist went out of business. I have info on my web page www.V8-240Z.com

Yup I still make them. $85 complete shipped to your door. Or I sell the transition adapter and threaded rod for $35 shipped to your door, if you want to build the rest yourself.

If you go to my web page www.V8-240Z.com there are pictures of the pin pullers and directions on how they are made.

This Z just came up on a local forsale forum. This is not my Z and I don't know anything about it other than what the ad says. http://pdxforsale.com/?ad=156607&cat=

This is what I have listed for the ZX outer axle nut. Outer axle flange nut for 24OZ-28OZ PN 43262-W12O2 (28OZX part)

What a way to go <a href="http://www.users.qwest.net/~linfoot/">Click Here!</a>

I fixed the link again.

Can you simply pay the guy $1 for the part and tell him to repost it? Then in the feed back state that you paid the $1 but feel the shipping was a bit high at $23? You paid for the part at the price it closed at.

What year 240Z? I have one from a 72. Its different than the 71Z and I don't know about the 73Z.

The Spindle-Pin-Puller that Gary has is one I made. I have more info here http://www.linfoot.net

CLICK ON THE LINK BELOW THEN HOLD DOWN YOUR LEFT MOUSE BUTTON, MOVE IT AROUND AND THEN WATCH THE RESULTS http://www.panlogic.net/yellowsnow/peeindex.html

I have a 93 Olds Achieva 5 speed that is all cable linkage. I came back from the U-Pull-It today after the bushings for the linkage. Almost all early to late 90's GM FWD cars are cable. Grand Am, Baratta, Achieva. Sunfire, Skylark Cavalier, Malibu, Alero many to choose from.

Instructions: 1) click on the link below 2) Click on the picture, and drag it a little to the right or left, or up or down... what ever you prefer! And then just let go... http://www.mxfiles.kneib.biz/drag_and_go_back_spezial.html

Gary. the studs are a 12mm but I think they are 1.25 thread pitch. The spindle pin puller is a 12X1.25mm see if that will easily thread on to the studs.

Lets toss some rocks http://www.davidandgoliathtees.com/new/games/boygame5.swf

Enrique, I have a curved transverse link brace he can have if that will help. I am over here in NE Portland. E-mail me if he wants it. V8-240Z@juno.com

Gary, Your car is a 73 and it should already have the curved transverse link brace.

Gary, What your talking about is a rear transverse link brace that is curved. Your 240 should already have a curved one on it. Only the 70-71 had the straight ones.

Try it again its fixed.

A quick search found the following contact info: Innovator Race Engine Technology Ltd 22513 Mylls St St clair Shores, Michigan 48081 Administrative Contact: Dutko, David ddutko@comcast.net Innovator Race Engine Technology Ltd 22513 Mylls St St clair Shores, Michigan 48081 (586) 293-8623 Technical Contact: Dutko, David ddutko@comcast.net Innovator Race Engine Technology Ltd 22513 Mylls St St clair Shores, Michigan 48081