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don't know if you fixed this - but I just replaced the battery in my 280 after it sat for 18 mo and had the same thing happen (just the first time). the clicking I heard was the solenoid and when I turned on the lights it started. My guess was that the new battery pushed the solenoid too hard and it stuck on either a bad spot on the winding or on the flywheel. With the lights on and less amps going to the starter it maybe sliding into place easier. Just a guess, but I think the less amps thing is the key. bottom line - a new starter and solenoid may be in order.

Anyone have any secret recipes for cleaning up aluminum brake drums (outside of drum) on my 280z ? Splash of diluted lemon juice, maybe some taco sauce or do I just paint em silver? - what has worked for you? Thanks in advance for you input.

Problem solved - I just had to push them up higher into the tunnel. Don't know why I got more clearance as they moved up. And oh yea - I needed to use a long persuader bar to start them up and a jack to move them into place. Thanks all - Here's a feature I didn't read about. There is significant friction on the Spindle pin and I had to push down on the brake drum with my foot to get the strut to drop. The first one popped out, flew out of the tunnel and swung down so fast it bent the fender lip outwards. Not a big deal -easily fixed with pliers, but later I sat on my butt and used one foot on the drum and one on the spring to control the assmbly. Thanks again.

Luckily I found the old one's and used em. Couldn't find anything on the internet unless I bought a box of 100. The Kragen, Autozone and Dealership guys all tried to help, but to no avail.

I see about 1" or so of play that I wasn't aware of before - thanks guys I will give it try and post results for the next guy.

Help - I am replacing my springs and struts all around, I am working on the rears. I took the old springs out w/o removing the spindle pin, i just dropped them down as was recommended. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26144&highlight=rear+strut This worked great - My problem is in putting it all back together. I can't seem to get the halfshaft plates with 4 bolts lined up on the rear wheel assembly before I put the rear strut up into the wheel well. Every time I get the strut up to attach it with the 3 interior nuts - the halfshaft plates are too long to fit on the assembly. Is this just a matter of more hands and more wiggling or what ? do the halfshafts slide into towards the pumpkin ? Help ! I am so close......

You mean this one ? http://www.baddogparts.com/ Try 'sway bar' in the search engine - I got 4 pages of hits.

Thanks guys - I bought the MOOG ball joints from Rock Auto and they did not include the o-rings. I found a spot on the web that sells them in all sizes and materials. I will order something close and strech it - or I might just say F%#$ it and use the RTV -thanks for the tip.

I am moving (finally !!) on my front end and I would like to freshen everything rubber if possible. Does anyone know where I can get new o-rings that sit between the steering knuckle arm and the bottom of the strut tube casting? Or any official names it may have ? Look at diagram #1 on the top of the page http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0097.asp Thanks as always - this forum is a great resource and I want to thank everyone that posts and especially thank you to those that post pictures.

For what it's worth - When I replaced my steering wheel bushing (78-280z) with a poly one, I stripped the bottom steering wheel u-joint bolt by having the steering rack in tight and the steering coupler bolts tight before bolting on the u-joint. I had the groove in the splined shaft on the rack lined up properly, but it seemed like the tension pulling the steering shaft up away from the steering rack, pulled the bolt against the splined shaft. Reccomend you tighten u-joints first before rack or steering coupler.

I just called ST - told them the 'front' sticker fell off (I lied - it's stuck on one of the 9 coil) -they said the 8 coil pair go in front AHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!

Uh - oh !!! I have a new box of ST springs sitting my garage waiting for xmas vacation to install. They also have a 'front' sticker on the 9 coil set. Can anyone confirm that ST is putting the sticker on the wrong pair ? Mohamed - did you ever swap springs front-to-back ? I will call ST tomorrow and post their response. Thanks - Grant.

Driver's side is reversed - the tie rod end rotates counter clockwise to go on steering rack arm, clockwise to remove. Mine are both currently totally stuck - I am going to a machine shop this week. Can the people that removed stuck tie rods, post what tools worked and what tools didn't ?

I like the stuff Arizonazcar sells and the price - but he says his springs lower a 280 by 1.5 in. - not what I am looking for. I am looking at the Suspension Techniques spring at http://www.upgrademotoring.com

Thanks guys - I guess I'll have to go with the aftermarket lowering stuff - FYI www.springworks.com quoted me $228 for 2. That was stock height but 120# front 140# rear.