boostedz

Looks pretty good, but might I add some constructive critisism, you may want to try some good polish first next time. It can do nothing but help the shine as it strips a lot of contaminents out of the paint. Good job though.

I mean I can say that the Seahawks did make some bonehead time management calls, but really come on. Talking about the first touchdown made by the Steeles. As far as I could see, because I recorded the game on the DVR, the Steelers QB never made the touchdown. I agree it was close and hard to call so Ill give that one to them. The biggest I believe was the holding on Seattle, then the call on Hasselbeck after, anyone could clearly see he was tackling the guy. QB's going for a tackle can hit low. But lets look how it was handed to the Steelers Locklear holding call when Stevens caught the ball on the 2 Pushing call in the end zone when Ward does the same thing and get's the touch down. Low block call on Hasselbeck when it was clearly a tackle. I think it will be a long time before we see Levy Umpire another game. F-ing idiot. Really though even John Madden said, where was the holding at? you can call holding on every play, but even John was bewildered. Its the refs giving the game to the other team, Ive seen it before and if you look back at a few superbowls, you will see it.

Since the car was sitting your first thing you should do is clean out the fuel lines and drop the tank and have it cleaned as well. Remove your carbs, clean them up and rebuild them, set the floats and go from there. Old gas can become like glue and gum up a lot of stuff, and will make a car very hard to start. Clean your fuel system up first and go from there.

That is just unbelievable, I mean for what you could pull for selling the vette and the camaro you could have a few Z's of your dreams . That is one HELL of a find!! Good luck in your search to find the owner. I hope you get to buy them all:)

The body isnt to bad, less those horrid tail lights and that god awful wing. The motor swap isnt bad either but for the simple fact that it is in the scarab position which isnt good for weight distribution. Put the motor in the right way and get rid of that wing and tail lights and it wouldnt be a bad car. 8900, I doubt it.

Instead of getting tubing bent unless it is mandrel bent you will be ending up with a small exhaust then what you want. For instance, if you wanted to go with say a 2.25 inch exhaust, at the bends it would be 1.87 inches, using a press bend type machine. That will be your bottleneck always unless you go with mandrel bends. You can buy them here at www.performancepeddler.com. He is very cheap on prices and doesnt charge for shipping via UPS ground. Good to deal with and very personable.

Eibach springs are progressive.

I did my own 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust on my Z (with turbo motor) for about 120 dollars. Used a freinds mig and went at it. If you have a recipricating saw, a welder, the ability to see what you want which apparently you do, and the patience to put it together, then just do it yourself the right way the first time and be done with it.

Then if that is the case you need to make a complaint of the same nature and follow up to make sure they have something done about it

The boot as all said before is yoru nemesis. Take care and time and all will come to you, easily done with the console removed. Just take your time so you dont lose anything, and curse yourself when you have to crawl under the car.

I would say the same I had this happen on a 72 of mine, it would run great then go to $^!#, one day it just wouldnt start. For some reason as I knew everything was just new, I decided to look at the distributor. It wasnt wobble but the top of the shaft itself broke. Id just check into it to be sure. With issues like you ahve siad I would think shaft wobble myself or timing chain slip

It is all I will use in my turbo, nothing but Mobil 1, I have not a problem one with it, its great oil, I love it.

I agree with Kenz240Z, I would go threw the whole front end of the car, wheel bearings being a big culprit that Ive found a lot of people neglect in theyre cars like bushings for suspension components. Check over your front end.

I would say if you keeping yoru suspension in stock form, going with polyurethane for your bushings would be a good idea. Not only are they better but are far superior to rubber when resisting the elements and in there longevity.

I would make sure they are tight the bolts for the shafts, and also check that the ujoints were properly installed and in correctly. I would be checking there first and foremost for any problems, since you didnt have this problem before installation. Good luck.

There is nothing special about it, there were are P90a heads that have solid lifters. Better for you in the long run when you are wanting to make more power out of the head.

The reason for posting that was simple, if you ever go to see or look at some of the specs of the Bonneville salt flat cars, you will see that most of theyre work was spent on top end building. I also agree whole heartedly that a over square motor does have great potential to rev and run well. The reason for sayign it isnt really necessary to up the bore so much is to just look at Norman Simpers 240Z. Its only a 2.9 stroker and is a 12 second quarter mile car. There was no need for him to up the cylinder bore to 3.0 or 3.1 litres of displacement.

You also must remember that all the power or most of the power from a L series head, comes more from head work then from upping the displacement. Though you will get a bit more power it is negligible in comparison as to what you could get from proper porting and work on the head with a good cam selection. It is also not always necessary to go to the largest bore either.

Heres a good little right up that might help explain the differences for you http://www.houseofthud.com/differentials.htm Basically locked rears are good for straight line performance, where the limited slip is better for road course vehicles, though both have proven well at the track.

True true, but if I recall I thought he had the carpet kit already, but Im guessing after a re read that he doesnt. Apparently the car is in a state of repair and is a good driver, canidate for easy restoration. The only time or anything that you would have in buffing the paint if you do it yourself would be time and about 18 dollars, well worth it if you ask me.

The difference in what most see is the rating change from the old standard of SAE gross and NET. Basically all it is saying is one just from the motor and the latter is from the motor with accessories. Here is a good read on horsepower ratings and how they were determined. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower The 280-Z and 280ZX have no real differnce in hp, or weight for that matter, most have found the 79ZX actually weighed less then the later 280Z.

No I agree with DougN, anything that car improve the car will make it sell better, and most are wanting something nice that they can drive and eventually tweek to what they want. I also agree with what was said about a respray, new paint, then sale sets up all sorts of red flags with me too, for the simple fact, why freshly paint the car then sell it. Cant see putting that kind of money into a car to sell it you know.

I have since found who used to sell them but apparently they are no longer in business. The site and the store was www.strictlyZ.com Unfortunate to see any of our vendors go under.

I got to see Hoover Chans primadonna Z, nothing that I would care to have but it was a very rare piece. On a side note though, I like the wheels on both of those cars, nice deep lip on the dish.