boostedz

Well that was not in question, he was wondering what else it had come in, and since he is in Oz, that does make a difference. Now if you would like to know what all the T5 came in, it came in Ford Mustangs, Mustang SVO's with the 2.3 turbo. It came in a variety of Chevys' including theyre pick ups as well. The thing is, the 83 turbo BW T5 comes with an output shaft that is a 24 based on 26 spline count. Meaning that there are 24 splines, with 2 spaces. The Z31 turbo transmissions output shaft is 22 based on 24, using the same method as above. Most Ford and Chevy T5's have an output shaft that is a 28 spline count or a 30 or 31 I cant remember exactly. So now you know the difference.

I would suggest if you are looking or when you do look to buy, stay away from ebay as the Z's price sometimes gets really inflated there. Since the 350Z came out the price has gone up some, and as of late I myself have been seeing, with some people cars that would normally go for about 2k, automatically think they are worth 5k now. Your best bet would to search on www.craigslist.com. www.collectorcartraderonline.com has some good cars are good prices as well. I think you will be happy with your Z, when you do get it, there is so much you can do to these cars in stock and not so stock form. Have fun and enjoy your new hobby

It came in many other cars and trucks, as for Nissan applications it only comes in the Nissane 300ZX turbo from 84-86. The difference, though I believe the part numbers for the transmissions are the same is the input shaft, and length of it, and the output shaft are different from the 83 Turbo. Now being that your in Oz, you may want to check some local boards there to see if it was made for or in other vehicles.

I was going to ask the same thing, that 4.4 ratio rear end will have you going crazy and will really hurt your times with the turbo, especially. Turbos love load mind you and with that GT35 I think you would be well suited with a 3.7 or even the 3.36, if well transmissions are like here and you have the later, higher geared transmission, then the 3.36 should work well. In any even you most definetly need a LSD. That peg legger is not helping you at all.

I was wondering where or who did you get your header for your turbo made or done at, I like how you worked that and what type of stand alone set up are you using becuase obviously your a bit far from stock. Good looking turbo set up you have there.

Well that will be true with most massed produced parts, and especially if they are "farming out" the product to other vendors to make.

But it is what you would want to do. There is NO substitution for FUEL INJECTION period, if you want more power FI is the way to go. If you do plan to boost you still can use a carbureted set up and there are people that are running a carbed set up and doing quite well turbo charged. In the end it is all up to you and what you want to do. As far as you burning a quart of oil that could be several things, but I would hardly think or believe it is a head gasket. It is more likely worn valve stem seals, or bad piston rings. Either or can be detected by a leak down and compression test. You can turbo your current block but, it would be better for you in the long run to at least get the bottom end from a turbo. Reason being is stronger pistons and ringlands and rods. Also it isnt a good idea to run a turbo motor on an NA cam, though you can, I wouldnt plan on running more the stock boost levels of 7psi. Parts you would need are as follows Intake manifold Exhaust manifold Turbo charger Fuel rail and injectors AFM Air flow meter Turbo down pipe Turbo J pipe Turbo fuel pump O2 sensor for AF ratio Turbo ECU Turbo engine wiring harness and I think that about has you covered.

The flat tops are called boat anchors, and it is a myth, because no one really knows or takes the time on how to tune them properly. I cannot remember exactly the bore of the 70-72 carbs are but if I remember correctly, the stock bore of the 73-74 carbs are 10mm larger. Note performance gain? I see a lot of talk about bolt on mods, and well only one person said the right thing about that, it will not do much of anything without engine work to make use of it. Just because it feels faster doesnt make it faster. Chickenwafer, did make a great suggestion though, first thing you should do is get your car in good tune first. Magnecores and Taylors arent necessary for the wires though, as I am using NGK NE61 wires on my turboed Z at 300HP and have no worries with them at all. Then worry about getting the car going and stopping perfectly and set up your suspension to handle your extra power. The thing that makes these cars perform is work to the head, you can leave the block stock for the small gains you are looking for and work your head with a cam and larger valves better springs and a bit of port work will get you all you need for what you want. Good luck with whatever route you choose and I hope you enjoy your car.

You can buy them at any parts store. If you are looking for something special or you need something custom, I would suggest talking to Ross and modernmodersports.com or John Coffey at Betamotorsports.com, his email is johnc@betamotorsports.com. Hes raced Z's most his life and Im sure he could tell you anything that you would need to know about your suspension set up for racing. On a personal note if your just looking for a stock replacement I would go with Courtesy Nissan.

That is what they did for some strange reason and it is only on the 79 ZX. More capable, yes it is, it is a refinement, it does have a stronger chassis, and is capable of accepting more power. Like I said I am a fan of the S30, but you just cannot argue numbers no matter how much you like the S30 and or dislike the S130.

With you still using stock style SU's I would think that you would want to lower yoru shift point, I really like the rest dont think you would be getting much power past 6500 rpms. Id say set it at 7k to be safe.

I know I will probably get flamed for this but the 240Z carbs are a down grade in all actuallity as the 260Z carbs are larger in bore then the 240Z carbs. Although they are a pain to tune and run, if you get them tuned correctly and get rid of a lot of the emmissions crap, they can be a good carb. For ease and working with them without going through headaches though, the 240 carbs are the best buy hands down. Squeezing 20-30 more hp out of the engine isnt going to be possible with bolt ons though, you will need some head, cam and valve work to accomplish this.

Well at $198.00 for a set of Tokicos I dont get where you see that they cost twice the amount of the KYB's. For only 68 dollars more I can see at least for "myself" paying that little extra. I guess you could say it goes with what quality of parts you want to use on your vehicle and how well you want to maintain it. Though replacing struts. at least for me is an easy task it may not be for the next person. I think Curtis put it right when he said it is more a question of how your time will be spent.

The biggest thing that gets me is why arent these people being helped at all. I spent about 1 hour yesterday just watching vidoes from msn, the devastation and the state that the people are in are horrible. Bodies just left to lay and rot in the street, 4+ days without food or water, children dying. Why isnt there any help for these people why are the still there and still wanting. We can travel across the globe and in two days take care of others, we cant even help our on and its almost been a week, yet they still starve????? WTF is wrong with Bush and this country?

I didnt mean to come off rude about your KYB's and if I seemed that I did Im sorry about that, and on your Integra, Im sure they will do just fine. What I was meaning about the whole thing is that they arent the great of a product. Tokicos were and still are original equipment for the Datsun/Nissan. Tokicos also if you ever decide to will also still be useable on your car if you ever decide to lower your Z. The KYB's will not hold up to this at all and I did notice that I did not mention this in my earlier post. For a stock ride hieght they would be fine.

What I dont understand is all the hatred toward the 280ZX, after all it is part of the Datsun family and is a well respected racer to its own. Just think about the Electramotive racer from Devendorf. pushing incredible amounts of hp and winning every year! Now on another side I know that people will say well its a heavy overwieght pig of a car, not really concidering that a 280zx weighs in about the same as a 280z and is more aerodynamic, more of a solid car and can handle more horsed thrown into its chassis. Personally I prefer the looks of the S30 model cars, but dont put down something that is an evolution of the Z and is well basically more capable.

Do yourself a favor, search a litte more and for just a bit more cash you can get the Tokico kit for a little bit more. KYB's in my opinion completly suck. I hae no other words for them, they dont last hold up, or do any better then a stock replacement gabriel or monroe would do.

Prox is right, though it can be done you would be better suited to just get the turbo motor complete and install that route. To answer a previous question, the earlier 84-early 87 turbo itself. will work on the ZXT manifold but the Z31 manifold will not work on the S130, being the S130 is a inline six, and the Z31 is a V-6.

Banzai Motorworks is out of Maryland and Mike is a really great guy to deal with, he is very knowledgable and has been into Datsuns for quite some time. I was going to suggest the same person for the Vin plates.

Well worth the opening bid as well and above, not to mention Vildini did the work. They are well known for theyre ability in motor swaps and in theyre work. Top notch to say the least. Nice car too. I wouldnt mind having it.

Well it would be like any other internally regualted upgrade and it is from the 1995 Nissan Maxima. I cant recall the exact name of the part but it sits under the pulley of the alternator. All you have to do if I remember correctly is to use the bushing and pulley from your stock alternator, or reduce the size of the bushing with the new alternator. Attach your pulley, and set up the Z for an internally regulated alternator, and now you have a good 95 amp alt for under 90 dollars.

Please dont take this the wrong way, but MSA is not the last stop for Datsun Nissan parts. I looked at your car for year and model and did a search of only one parts store online. I found the heater control valve for only 36.99, your one molded hose for that valve 4.94 and the other for 6.18 shipped in only one day for a total of 48.11. Now to me that seems to be a hell of a lot better deal then MSA. You do also know that not all MSA parts belong to them and or Nissan as well. They have a huge mark up. You would be doing yourself a favor by searching first. Also for authentic Datsun/Nissan parts I would suggest Courtesy Nissan. Much more freindlier and faster shipping and all prices are listed and no outrageous mark up either. Good luck and like others said I would replace the two hoses just for piece of mind. You can find Courtesy Nissan here http://www.courtesyparts.com/

I have to agree with beandip, using a relayes system for your headlights and upgrading the wiring, you will have no trouble with your lights or anything like that. It is one of the things you should do to your Z. As for the alternator upgrade, I used the Nissan Maxima 95amp alternator, for my upgrade. It was simple, I just changed the bushing so the bets fit properly, and I couldnt be happier, I have a lifetime gaurantee, and it was much cheaper as well and a local buy. Not knocking that alternator upgrade at all, its just I like to do things myself and make it acessable as to where I would have to order and wait. Glad to hear your woes are over, but I would upgrade the wiring, it will only help.

A clean or restored dash will cost you a pretty penny, the rest of the information you requested can be found with a simple search of the site. To answer if you have any mechanical skills and the proper tools it shouldnt be to hard at all honestly. If you dont than it might be a bit of a daunting task.

Well I can tell you this that a backfire is caused by an over rich condition, if it were backfiring threw the intake then you would have a lean condition. I would check your plugs to see where you are with your fuel issues to "VERIFY" first. Then you know where you need to start. You might also want to check your timing as well, I hope this helps you a bit, but like I said before VERIFY what the problem is first then go from there.