benny240

Skylines are cool. But what about parts??? Brake pads, starters, etc. Are most parts consitant with other nisans?

Do you have water leaking or moisture, efecting the relays?? (if your car is ouside) You could clean all the conections. I have major problems and plan to re wire

Cant argue with that. At Sears Point during practice the guy in front of me hit a rabit, minor damage to wing. Also in turn 3a the front sway bar broke (formula Mazda) I spun and stoped next to the tire barier on the inside of 3b. At Thunder Hill Race way (in willows CA) I ran over a snake in a go cart. They have guys with shot guns scaring the fezents (birds) away. Sorry I cant spell. On Mark West Springs Road I came around a corner and seen two dear I went between them (in a slow corner) but one moved and its head hit my windshield, I seen it run away in my mirror. Yes on a nice piece of open road I cant help it. However I feel max speed is ment for the race track. (If you crash people can help you fast)

when I read the first part of the thread my reply was going to be... I'm sorry, but going fast in a strait line is not that fun, espcilaly in a Z. (but I am a road racer). Where I live there are too manny back roads to count. I would hate to live somewhere with all strait roads. Controling the car in a corner is much more fun. Having said that then I read the rest of the thread. Most of you are smart resposible drivers. My driving a ford F350 utility truck to work (Over 10'000 lbs) I have a better understanding of road danger. We need to be honest I wont lie I was dumb once. i knew I was a better detter driver but I did not ignore the warnigs during my learnings to drive. I have spun, dodged (more than a few) dear in the past pluss some close calls. I always Knew that a motor vehicle is a very dangeros weapon. I would do my speeding at night, I figured if I could see the head lights comming I would be ok But there are many dear out here. (I drove a honda prelude '83). I would even memoize the drivesways, cross roads, and farm crossongs on my favorit roads to go slower in areas. Some times my friends would get togeather with scaners and CB raidos. we would go to a remote road and take turns having fun.(This was not safe). we even got cones and used tires, went to a local abandon air port and set up are oun auto cross corse (I thought for sure we would get busted) then a few months later we did it in the rain, that was a great learning experince. a cupple year later I got ny Z. I used it as my daily driver to Sears Point Raceway where I inroled in the Jim Russel Mechanics traing program. 1 year working on the school race cars and driving them, (you pay for the program). The race track is the place to have your fun. That is when I dicited to make my Z track worthy now that have the money. I might end up racing it but practice days are much cheaper and you drive at yor oun pace. As far as crashing your invesrment is concernd... Do you oun a Z that is original (go slower, good reason to keep car alive)? Do you oun a Z that Is modified and must go fast? (we cant help it some times, it can be like an adiaction)? comming around a corner over a rize and seeing three deer in the road, act quick (if you see three kids???) There has been too many kids in my area making fatel mistakes lately. (Even at 55 mph) Highways can have debrees and draining ditches that are not car and driver friendly as race tracks have run off or walls (plus an ambulance and corner workers) to keep you "safer". Have fun in your Z the best way you can!

No off set

LanceM "Keeping orginality on this car is a point long gone..." I want to re wire with a hot rod kit and it lookes like a good idea. it will keep everything simple. my dash is a flat piece of sheat aluminum with the original gauges. I figure the gauges can be kept but the switches might be a problem. But I dont care, I want to replace it all any way (the combo switch is nice maybe I can make it work?)

My 240Z has a 280Z five speed so I use 280Z drive shaft (I'm not sure what rear end I have) The drive shaft in the car is serviceable(I have changed the u joints twice) The clips that hold the cups in place are on the inside. My drive shaft is beat up and looks like it may have come loose in the past. I went to pick n pull and found a drive shaft $31. (the u joints are bad ) When I cleaned this one around the u joints i could not find any clips holding the cups. and noticed the cups seem to held in the yoke by a ring that is pressed into place. this one is not serviceable. I am going to a bigger pick n pull to trade that one in (if I can find one) I will post new info if I get it. If not I will pay for new one.

Wow this brings back memorys. When I finaly got my Z in GT2 I set it up, and could beet anyone that raced me with any car in my garage (my setup for the cars and the realizim of the game made it hard for the friends to control the set up) No 240Z in GT3 Now in GRAN TRUISMO 4 You can aquire the 240ZG 1971 by going to nissan race event, club Z. Any car with a Z emblem can enter the races. I used a 350z race car, they dont stand a chance. I wish I could send picts

Only a sugjestion As far a the sound efects of the cars motor are concernrd it cound be any sports car in ther sound files andded during sound editing.

Yes the hot wrentch is very efective and not always an option!!!

Hi rob when you are going that fast in a mostly streat car (Very high speed) i can see the problem. too much air has no place to go i.e vents in the motor compartment (or hood) neer the the wind shield would help air flow. I was trying to help explain that a streat car aero package does not help handling .

Too understand how air afects the stability of a car you have to think of how an airplane flies. (the air travles a further distance over the top of the wing to cause lift) Downforce is cerated by air travaling over the car will create a vacume under the car to induce downforce. Race cars get the body work close to the ground and install panels under the chasis to improve this vacume. This only happens at very high speeds. If your car feels funny a high speeds I think it a susption/alingment problem

I read you are re wiring your '73. I want use a hot rod kit and start over. Do you have any advice???

I wish my Z was ready!!

I think most air dam kits are for looks. (I have front air dam and rear spoiler) If you want aero to make a diferince you will be driving a race car. I drove formula mazdas at sears piont (Jim russel racing school) the race cars had wings but did not make the downforce nessary to afect the handing in the fast turns. (turns 1 3a 5 6 8 9 and 10) beandip is right in the fact that you will trim aero drag making top speed less stresfull.

Speed costs money, How fast can you aford to go?

I was at the local pick n pull two weeks ago looking for a drive shaft. I found a few donors and they all had stuck rear drums (note they were 280 Z's) All the drum fins had evidince of sever hamer damage (due to stuck drums) I assume they were after drive, Half shafts due to maring on the bolts. I disconected a brake line at the rear pistion and used wd40 (you can us your favoit penitrating lube) and a dead blow hamer. After no sucess on the right side I tried the left side. There I found hope. Let the wd40 soak in then get to work with the dead blow. I belive the dead blow Vs a steel hamer works best for things like this. Start by hitting the drum in random locations at first too help loosten any rusted or stuck parts. Then you start to knock it out from the back side. It takes a while utill you can get screw drivers involved. You can't pry the drum off, you can prevent the other side of the drum frum deflecting back in on the other side during striking. Add more wd40 as nessary. (when I finaly got the drum off ther was scaring on the pads from the inside of the drum where there is no wear on the drum from the pads This could be the problem) All in all i found that disconecting the brake line at the sorce made a diference. (I do not know how the rear brake valve works but I think it may prevent back flow at low presures) Note My '73 240 sat for over year and I had to remove the drums this way, only it took less "hamer time". :stupid: I got my drive shaft after the drum removal so the diff will spin.

My Z has a home made role cage that conects to all four strut towers. (is that what is called a four point cage)??? Any way I also have the strut tower bars. The guy I bought it from did all this so I do know the original way of handing. Point is, if I manuver a steep driveway sidewalk aprotch at an angle A tire or two will come of the ground. The cage is not track worthy (YET) but it is rigid and lets the suspention do the work. In my opinoin the tower bars would help your handling but the car will still twist.

My co workers call me benny. :stupid:

My co workers call me Benny

Hi it is funny in a way to read this now. After my Z was a reliable day to day driver with tlc. I had wierd problmes with head lights and igniton and studyed all the diagrams I could get (not having the intenet as a resorce) I was confused, VERY CONFUSED???? Then after diging around I found some loose wires at the tach, adjusted the pionts and she ran fine. Only now do I understand. OK now for the strange part??? I had a bad ignition sputter, it came and went and got worse to the point I had the intire shop involved. (I did the Jim Russel Racing School Mechanic traing program, got to race, got to learn it was fun). Nothing helped Then one day I took the black wire that comes out of the distributer (signal wire from the point and condeser) and removed the plastic piece that held the wire. I seperated the wire from any ground contact at the distributer (where the plastic piece was) with silicone and the car gave me no more ignition problems. Oh yeah I did try to jump the coil from the batery and it did not go very well. Electronic ignition is in the works but most imortant I plan to rewire the car.

hi again i am cuently going through my suspention and dooing a toyota4x4 vented brake swap. thank you all for thread search help. I plan to re wire and found a hod rod harness at http://www.centechwire.com/. I read some where that beandip was going to put a '72 harness in a '73. i have also read some complaints that the '73 wiring harness was adversly afected by the new smog laws (as well as other systems that have been aliminated in my Z). It turns out when I got my Z, most of it except the electrical system has been alterd in some way. (even the dash is a flat piece of aluminum retaining the original gauges). I have fuond discution about "patch work" but I have been there tryed that or gave up. so I diceded to rewire. the kit is a good price $250 and i am shur it will take a while to install. I am just happy I finaly have the funds to make my Z the car I want it to be. If any one has any thoughts on this I would aprecate.

Hi every one

My fuse box melts, some times smokes when any lights are on (including the fact that all the lights are dim and driving at night is hard to see). Ignition and charging problems come and go. After replacing relays doing reshearch and tryng to understand the maze of wires and diagrams that dont make sence. (I guess that is why I'm a plumber and an electrition is an electriton.) However I do have 4 years race mechanic/restoration experince including wiring a race car (noting vitage race cars dont requier very many wires). I did find a hot rod harnes kit at Centech for a good price. I'm looking for any advice or any one that has done this whether it was race car or not. By the way my car is a modified street car but I have taken it to the track for fun. The Z was my day to day car. It sat for a year. Finaly I have the money to make it a better 240z.