zack_280

I don't know if I'd say 'pretty damn easy' to get the seats out, but it's really not that hard. Good luck.

You should also check you mixture. I was having the same problem because mine was running too rich. Unfortunately, I don't know if the PO knew about it and by the time I got the car, the engine needed to be rebuilt. Definitely check the compression.

Anyone with Pics of the MSA bar?

That looks like it. It's interesting that it mounts above the half shaft. That seems like a much better place. You shouldn't have as much interference there.

I believe the ST kit has brackets that replace the existing mounting brackets for the rear control arm mount (the two brackets that are bolted to the frame right behind the diff). Then you mount the ST bar to the new brackets. Whereas you have to drill a hole to mount the MSA bar.

I know. I was reading through some of the threads and it seems like some people are saying it mounts in the front. Hopefully someone here can elaborate on that. I'd appreciate the pics Mike. Zack

I knew that was coming. I got the MSA kit because someone in my area had it and was selling it.

Does anyone have any pictures of the rear sway bar from MSA? I would like to see how it is mounted. I already have the bar and I was trying to place it to see where I needed to drill the mounting holes. One problem is that the exhaust is in the way. The other is that it doesn't "look" like it will work without some interference somewhere. Things are pretty tight in there. I would like to know exactly what I need to do before cutting the exhaust down. Thanks in advance. P.S. I did search, no pics were available.

I'm in Chattanooga too (Redbank). I haven't had a chance to drive the Dragon. I will probably try to make it to Zdayz next year (if it's still happening and going to be held at the Tail of the Dragon.) I was hoping to get to go this year, but my engine work ended up taking about three months longer than expected.

It depends on what you want to do. But the basics are pretty easy. I have a 2.8L block with an E31 head. You could do the something similar and add a few power increasing items without having to spend too much money. You could port and polish the head, modify your SUs and intake to breathe better and enlarge the valves on the E31 (or E88). Just be careful as the valves can interfere with the block. If you can do most of the assembly yourself, you could get by fairly cheap.

Would help if you didn't have to be a member with at least 50 posts to view the site.

Ztherapy has a good video for rebuilding/refreshing your carbs. I recommend it. I was in the same boat as you this past winter and it helped me a lot.

Remove the air cleaner and hold the piston up with your finger then let it go. It should fall freely. It also may be possible that your butterflies (or one of them) are sticking. Are the linkage return springs in good shape?

I believe Ed is correct. I just went through this and bought the MSA "special" exhaust/intake gasket. It seems to work well. You might also want to buy the MSA competition oil pan gasket. It seems to be a much better material than the Fel Pro replacement.

"Having to wait for posted pictures to be approved" I have been debating posting this for a while. It drives me nuts when I see something that I want to look at right there on the home page and I click on it and I can't b/c it's not approved. Would it be possible to not show the pics there until they are approved? I would really like to see that.

I had some trouble lining up the motorsport system and ended up having to pay a local muffler shop to hang it. They had to slightly modify it to fit it properly. They also welded a hanger to my shiny new tip. Next time I will go to a better exhaust shop and try to get a stainless mandrel bent system.

The car fired right up this afternoon and it's running great (as far as I can tell). Thanks to everyone for your help. Zack

Yeah, Steve, I noticed. It was like that when I got it and it seems to cool pretty well. It ain't broke, so I ain't gonna fix it.

jfairladyz, I think it will run but it was later last night when I got finished with it and I wanted to have a little time to work any kinks out before I fire it up. I am 99% sure it will run. I will find out today. I should have added that tidbit to my previous post.

Nope, but it's not too hard to do. Actually it's pretty easy. If you do a search you can find the instructions on this site (I'm too lazy to type it out and I know it's been done before). I would suggest adjusting them cold first to get the hang of it and then adjust them warm when you are feeling like an old pro.

Here's an update. Well, it's not running yet, but I think I got my dizzy problems worked out. While cranking it I hooked up my timing light and it was showing about 25-30 degrees retarded. I'm not really sure why, the tang seemed to be lined up pretty close to where it was supposed to be, but whatever. I just decided to drop the oil filter and rotate the spindle until the rotor button lined up with a point. I ended up moving the plug wire to the No. 1 cylinder over two places. The attached picture (if it works) shows the original orientation of the tang. The new orientation is almost parallel to the line of the car (front to back). P.S. How do you like my homemade timing marks (in red next to the notch I put in the wrong spot with my dremel, doh!).

SavannahZ, Are you saying that you disconnected the two wires that were originally connected to the resistor? Or are you saying that you connected them through a male/male connector as shown in the tech article diagram?

Thanks again to all. I have connected everything per the instructions in the tech article. However, I still seem to be having a little problem. It is having trouble starting. When I hook up a timing light it is firing like crazy. I have never hooked up a timing light while starting, but I wouldn't expect to see it firing like that. (Also as far as I could tell it looked like the timing was way too advanced) But like I said I couldn't tell for sure that the marks were in the same place every time the light picked up. Any thoughts? Thanks again.

There are two connectors on the 'Black box' on the side of the ZX dizzy. They look like this |- . I bought a reman model from Autozone and it does not label them as B or C as is supposedly shown on the E-12-80 module. I have seen two wiring diagrams, one on jrdremers and the other on the technical section here. My set up will be the same as the tech article complete with the MSD connections. However, they don't agree. Tech article link http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13085&highlight=distributor Could someone please tell me if the 'top of the T' or the 'stem of the T' is the B connection? Thanks,

Thanks to everyone for the information. Hopefully after getting the new dizzy, I'll be able to get the mixture setting correct.