7T1240

This ebay listing incorrectly reflects the odometer reading for the car. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4644512852&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1 Seller states the vehicle has 62,000 miles. When the car was being sold by the original family (daughter-in-law was selling for her elderly father-in-law), I was told on two separate occasions that the actual mileage on the vehicle was/is 262,000 miles. She was asking $3000 at the time. I passed on the vehicle as it had several body panels with mismatched paint from previous repairs, some rust issues (imagine that!) and a leaking heater core which left the horsehair padding in both driver and passenger footwells wet. Another curiousity is that the seller lives in Deer Park, Washington while the ebay photos show the Idaho plates of the original owner. Extrapolate what you will from this, but the possibility exists that the ebay seller has not yet registered the car in his name as a Washington resident in hopes of flippping the car before being required to pay the +8% WA sales tax. So, in short, buyer beware. Gary S.

Guys...thank you! Great suggestions from each and every one of you. DatsunZGuy, the links are very helpful, I'll check Vandenberg's schedule. jmortensen and jmkm000, Solvang sounds intriguing, as does 154. Santa Inez sounds like fun (Sideways was great, wasn't it!), as does the Casino (thanks xxjoeyxxeb) and Hearst Castle (maybe the evening tour). Again, thanks to all. G.S.

I will be travelling to Santa Barbara this coming Sunday, 05/14, and staying 6 days. To those who are familiar with the area, I would be grateful for suggestions on things to do, things to see, places to go, etc. (both car/Z-car related and non-automotive). Thanks, Gary S.

Yup, I'd be interested. Gary S.

If you click the "Photo Gallery" link, then perform a search for "hatch", something like seven pages of hatch oriented photos come up. Many do not show the seals, but more than a few do...if you scan those photos perhaps you'll see what you need? Gary S.

I'm not seeing a "tech" or technical heading in the forum section. Please point me in the right direction. Thanks, Gary S.

Hopefully this is germaine to the discussion. I have not been able to locate a remanufactured or new 70 amp 280ZX Turbo alternator. However, I have been able to locate the item used. What concerns should one have about purchasing a used alternator? How difficult is it to refresh this part? (Searches have revealed some parts availability - brushes, bearings, etc.) Can this be accomplished at home, or might it be less troublesome or minimally costly to have a shop do a "remanufacture"? Gary S.

Arne, My money order is being mailed today. As I have searched for a replacement alternator, I have found much the same as Sean240Z - 60 amps available but not 70 amps. For practical purposes, how significant is this difference in amperage? Also, what was the output of the externally regulated 240Z alternator? Gary S.

Congratulations Brian. I'm curious about the seats and steering wheel in your car. The wheel looks like one I've seen on MSA's website. Also, for those interested in Skyline's of all vintages, Sports Car International has a feature in the current issue (#174 May 2006) on the Nismo Festival of Speed in Japan. And I noticed on their website - http://sci-mag.com/ - that they offer a free trial issue. Gary S.

Hello Eric B., The Nardi / Personal Part number for 240Z - 260Z - 280Z is #4301001003. That adaptor is currently out of production from Nardi. However, there are some retailers who still have this hub, as evidenced by this auction on ebay: [url=]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8044038943&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1 The seller provides an 800 phone number to call and verify fitment. Good luck, Gary S.

Dave, I had no idea what your personal situation is, and I appreciate you enlightening me. This makes me respect your work even more. Given these circumstances, it pains me to see you replying to my post at 12:55 a.m. I think we need to establish an internet curfew for you, say, no posting after midnight:)! Best wishes, Gary S.

Hello Dave, I will loudly echo everyone's praises regarding the headlight harness. Great design, top-notch fabrication and superb in application. I was having a hot fuse and headlight switch problem, exacerbated by the previous owner's installtation of H-4's, and only slightly mitigated by my disassembly and cleaning of the switch. Dave's harness in - problem solved. Great job! Here are some observations from my experience that might make the whole transaction even better. 1. PayPal payment option. You mentioned somewhere your reluctance to incorporate this because they charge a fee. I suggest that you offer buyers the option of paying 2 or 3 dollars more per item to cover the Paypal fee if they would like to pay instantly in this fashion. Since my credit union charged me $2.00 for the cashier's check / money order, I would gladly have paid the extra $2.00 to you for a PayPal option. 2. I would suggest rewriting instruction 10, which says "Remove the bolt that holds the center valance to the inner frame (fig.2)" so that it says "10) Remove 2 bolts which hold the lower valance to the inner frame on each side of the lower radiator support(fig.2)" In conjunction with this, I would suggest posting the photographs in your instructions to your classiczcars gallery, where they can be viewed in color and with greater clarity. Why? Because the phrase "center valance" had me looking at a bolt in the center of the car, and fig.#2 photo was not clear enough to straighten me out. Also, by adding the phrase "on each side of the radiator", it would clarify that there are two bolts that should be prepped for grounding. You see, as I passed the harness through the lower radiator support hole (step 6), I failed to pass the ground wire for the right side connector through the hole. I was able to make all the other connections, and mistakenly assumed that the installation was complete after grounding the left side headlight connector (until I powered up and threw the switch!). Upon reviewing this thread, I found bpilati's post and the reference to two grounds, and found the error of my ways. In suggesting that the instructions be changed to reflect two grounding points, I agree with bpilati's earlier assertion. 3. If refining the design is your desire, again I would agree with bpilati's suggestion to place a rubber sheath on the female connector to protect that connection as is done with the others. 4. As a general regard for privacy, I'll suggest you could inform people of the progress of their orders by using their first name, last initial or user name as opposed to first and last name. Personally, I have no objection to you informing me by using my full name, but others may prefer the anonymity. 5. Lastly, I would suggest that you arrange to promote your products on Zselect.com, linked here:[url=]http://www.hammondsplains.com/z/. This site is described as "Products for Z Enthusiasts by Z Enthusiasts", which certainly describes you and your products. At the bottom of the page is a clickee with contact information to ad your products. I found this site linked in a post on zcar.com, where you could also advertise in their classifieds. And I would definitely offer your harnesses on ebay. I hope these suggestions are of some value to you, and that they are received in the spirit which they are intended, that is, constructively - not critically. As Carl Beck's signature says, FWIW, Gary S.

Hello Chris, I did as you suggested and read Kats thread - thanks for that link. I also PM'd you estimated shipping weights and dimensions several days ago. Since I have not heard from you, I'm wondering if that PM came through? Gary S.

Following 26th Z's suggestion, I read the thread started by Kats, linked here: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5065&page=2 Replies 24-27 of the aforementioned thread show the Bridgestone Super Speed Radial-20, which is the tire I have. Unlike Arne's DOT XXX... example, this tire has the DOT script standing alone. As suggested by CanTechZ, my tire has the script K7009 on each sidewall, and I believe this indicates the tire was manufactured in the ninth month of 1970. The spare wheel from my car is stamped 10/70. The car's VIN is HLS30-13523, with a build date of 11/70. CanTechZ, if my logic is correct, that would mean your tire was produced in the first month of 1970. Gary S.

In the hope of raising some funds for other work on my car, I am considering selling the OEM Bridgestone tire that was the car's spare. Rarely (if ever?) used - see photos below. If I were to put this on ebay or in the Z parts forum, it would be helpful to establish a value beforehand. Opinions? Thanks, Gary S.

Fuel level sending unit connections update -Over the years, the boots for my original connectors had become rock hard. While attempting to remove them, one brittle wire weakened at the connector inception point, so I snipped off both connectors. After some searching, I found what you see pictured below to use as replacements. On the bottom left in the photo is the original boot and connector. Directly above the original boot is a boot I found as a replacement. It is very similiar in profile, although slightly larger in scale, than the original. The bag to the right of the boots has the part number for the replacement boot - 113971901A, and is described as a "wiring boot, shields positive terminal on generator 71-73 bug" on www.wolfsburgwest.com, a VW bug supplier. $3.35 each. In the upper left hand corner is a top and bottom view of the connector I used. It slips onto the fuel sending unit post, and has the "tang" previously mentioned by Enrique. The PowerPath package in the upper right corner shows the part number - 784491, described as "GM56 series female housing". I was told this connection is the OEM style connection for a GM water temp. sender. PowerPath is a line name of parts from Federal Mogul. Gary S.

Thanks Dave, I appreciate being kept in the loop. I'm hoping harness #1 will show up on Monday! Also, today I was looking for some electric connector boots for my fuel level sender at a store called West Marine. While there, I came across this "Battery Direct Connector"http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/19483with this catalog description: Brass terminals provide a safe and secure way to connect up to four interface-sensitive instruments directly to your battery. Positive and negative quick-connect terminals are included Positive (red):3/8" ID Negative (black): 5/16" ID Dave, do you see this as being a viable option for connecting these harnesses directly to the battery, or just an unnecessary do-dad? Gary S.

Dave, Thanks for the update. I just kind of stumbled over this as I was not previously subscribed to this thread. Regarding the parking light harness, it is my intention to get a money order coming your way Tues 1/31 p.m or Wed 2/01. I like the 'plug and play' style of this latest design. Regards, Gary S.

Just wanted to throw in these guys as a possible source for connectors. If you scroll down the linked page a couple of clicks you will see the heading Partnumber: 1204 Wiring Harness Plug Kit Photo attached And while this is for a kit, they do state later in the description "Some plugs sold open stock." Here is the link http://www.datsunparts.com/Electrical They specialize in Datsun Roadster parts, but it seems possible some of the connectors may be applicable to 240Z's. Gary S.

Jack, hello. Are those photos of your 260Z? If so, are there more photographs (and written descriptions ) of the restoration process you are taking your car through? Thanks, Gary S.

Thanks for your response Virto. As you said, 'Learn something new everyday with these cars'. Thanks to your post, I now have Zparts bookmarked along with other Z parts suppliers...I wasn't aware of them before your response. Thanks Jim, this was just the information I was looking for. Gary S.

Hello beandip. The car is up on jackstands right now. I've already dropped the tank as well. Earlier tonight I examined the tank itself (just as you suggested) and found evidence of a fuel leak pattern below the small nipple at the top front of the tank (where the u-shaped hose heads back to the reservoir). If my recollection is correct, this is the same hose that dogma cited as the culprit in his write-up. Put some light on it and it is indeed damaged (cut) about 1/2" from the end. Regarding the tank itself, I believe the tank seams are intact, and I only see evidence of one small dent. Rust and sediment don't appear to be problematic either. However, the tank could use a good cleaning, and would benifit greatly from a new finish. Gary S.

Yes. To retrieve the car at purchase I had to bus about 170 miles from home. Before leaving the seller's town, I filled up the tank, then stopped to grab a cup of coffee before hitting the interstate. That's when I noticed fuel leaking under the car - at the gas tank, on the filler neck side. At the time, I did not attempt to pinpoint the source of the leak. And after that time, I (perhaps foolishly) did not attempt to recreate the problem by topping off the tank again. At this point, I will probably take the fuel tank to a shop to have it boiled out and pressure tested (if this is how they check for leaks). As you suggested, I will also probably replace most or all of the hoses and grommets, including the fuel filler hose. Interesting. Thanks for filling me in. I was just curious what you were referring to. Probably not the fix for me, especially given the questionable availability.Gary S.

Just for clarification, my initial reason for broaching this subject is that I am having problems with exhaust and/or fuel fumes in the cabin, and also a fuel leak when the tank is full. I formed the question as I did because it is my understanding that this system is subject to scrutiny in states where emissions testing is still required. I solicited responses from folks who live in states where their cars are inspection exempt because the question of keeping or eliminating the system didn't seem pertinent to those in states where the system is still required to be in place. I'm not sure where the assumption was made that it might be my hope to gain horsepower by eliminating this system. I'm just trying to eliminate the various causes of fumes in the cabin. I realize that hatch seals, taillight seals, door seals, existence or absence of a rear spoiler, etc., etc. are all possible contributing factors to be explored, but the fuel tank and reservoir is the system I'm troubleshooting currently. Tom, what are the accepted devices you are referring to here?

No apology necessary, Ron. On the contrary, explaining that Mr. Vaughan's skillset includes welding and that his toolset includes a lathe are pertinent to this thread, as I was hoping to connect the forum to him as a resource, not turn folks off to him because they perceived his work as expensive. It was good you asked for clarification on what work was done. "Thanks for your nice words, I have family up in the Spokane /Liberty Lake area, I will drop you a line next time I am up in that area. Ron" Ron, that would be great. And Arne, if you are ever in the Spokane area, you should do the same. Gary S.