7T1240

Hello Manny. Just to clarify, are you talking about the rubber spacers mounted on the fenders that contact the hood when it is shut, as seen in the close-up photos of the windshield washer bottle and the battery? Out of curiousity, I looked at those spacers on my '71, which has had no paint work done from the firewall forward. There is some orange coloration evident on those spacers on my car. (My car is the same color as the ebay car being discussed). And looking closely at the hood, there are perfectly coinciding wear marks where the hood wing contacts the spacer, to the point where I can actually see metal in some spots. I've attached a photo from my car below. I'm not saying the car is or isn't a repaint. I am saying if some coloration on the black rubber fender spacers is the concern being pointed out, there may be a plausible explanation for it other than a repaint. Gary S.

Just curious Jim, are you getting much response to the idea of a group purchase? Thanks, Gary S.

Okay, had some time to dig into this today. My initial goal was to swap out the heater control panels, but I figured since the radio would then be accessible I'd at least ask the question at the beginning of this thread. At the time, I did not have the radios right there in front of me, but after removing heater panels I went ahead and pulled the radios as well. E, you were correct. The antenna, speakers and power, and antenna motor connectors for the AM-FM should have been exactly the same as the '71 AM seeking radio. The first photo shows the power antenna connector in hand, the thin 3 spade in the foreground, and the red w/ blue bullet that connects to a blue power lead, if my memory serves me correctly. Unfortunately, my radio and harness were hacked when the previous owner installed an aftermarket sound system, so this wasn't plug & play. The second photo shows the power antenna was the same, and the red w/ blue bullet was also the same. However, the 3 connector thin spade had the blue wire lopped off right at the connector, and later added back in to retrofit the radio into the hacked harness. In the end, I elected to stick with the AM radio while keeping an eye out for a unmolested dash harness from a manual car with a late '70 build date. Gary S.

Tony, when I first saw your User name auzziez, I assumed you were even farther away than Florida...I thought you were one of the Australia CZC guys! Anyway, the rest of the car - well, not too bad, depending on how you define it. First of all, it hasn't run in a dozen or more years. It's an automatic. Those white interior panels you like are in pretty good shape, but faded. Each seat has an issue that would best be remedied by recovering. The car is pretty straight and not too rusty, but needs paint. I need my garage space back. If somebody buys it to put it back on the road, it will definitely be a project. Gary S.

Hi Dan. Thanks for your responses. When I first got my Z I made the mistake of throwing out a couple of parts that I replaced with newer Nissan stuff. One was the shift boot for my '71, the other was an original fuel pump. Later I was able to buy a nicely crafted shift boot for early cars (no string tie). It was made by one of the members here. Since I threw out my old boot, I didn't have the grommet that slides over the shifter to transfer from my old boot to the new one. Bummer! On the fuel pump, the new Nissan part was a later design. Some time later, I learned from a thread by Arne that you can rebuild the fuel pump. Damn! So, anyway, I generally hold onto all the original stuff that comes off the car now, especially those that can be refitted if originality is desired. E, thanks. So, long story short the connectors are different and it is not plug and play, correct? But with your wiring identification I could make some short jumpers using the proper ends and install to avoid cutting the harness. Is this the route you would take in such a swap? Gary S.

Hi all. I have a 2/72 car that I've been cherry picking some parts off of (my car is a 11/71). The '72 has an AM-FM Hitachi radio in it, while my '71 has the seeking AM Hitachi radio. Before I start pulling things apart, does anyone know if a '72 AM-FM is a plug and play into a '71 AM radio wiring harness? Thanks, Gary S.

Awhile back, I posted a thread asking about the experiences of people who have bought parts cars. After reading your input, I went ahead and purchased one that had been offered to me. I've been digging around in it and have taken some photos of some of the more fun / interesting parts. Shown are a decent Bridgestone RD-150 on a lightly used rim, a uncracked dash, a nice fuse cover with fuse puller, a heater control panel with minimal scratches and chrome overlay intact, and a tire changing tool bag still sealed in plastic. At this point, I may not end up parting the car out. I'm in the process of porting over some of the nicer applicable parts into my 11/71 car (the parts car is a 2/72), such as interior door pulls, the heater control panel, possibly the AM/FM radio. One option I'm looking at right now is leaving the nice dash in the car and selling it whole and as is (not running). I need the space freed up before winter. Gary S.

In the attached photo, what is the purpose of the blue female bullet connector that can be seen taped to the wire wrap leading to the fan switch connector? If this is an auxiliary wire, is it hot? Thanks, Gary S.

Dave C., thanks for the tip and the link, I checked out the thread on hybridz. (Your red car is such a pleasure to see. I got the same thrill from watching your startup video as I got from watching kats Z432 video!) Mike, thanks for the BRE link, I'm not sure why I couldn't find that individually. And yeah, maybe I'm making too much of an issue out of cleaning and waxing around these badges. On the other hand, as was pointed out in the hybridz thread, a new set of badges can be pretty spendy. Reminds me of one of my favorite quotes, "How do you make a small fortune in collector cars? Start with a large one..." Hi Dave P. Looks like you have exactly what I was inquiring about. Now that I know they're available, I just have to decide how important it is to stay stock. But at the price you're selling them for, it would be hard to go wrong. Even if I do go with stock badging, your decals would look great on toolboxes, garage shelves facings, etc. Nice job on your part! Gary S.

Thank you for the tip Rich. I got pretty excited hearing that no less of an authority than Les has them. So, I went to his website, and unfortunately I don't see mention of them. I was hoping to see photos of what he has. Anyway, thank you, I'll give him a call. Hi Mike. These are great tips as well, thank you. I have only recently purchased a spook and rear spoiler for my car, so hatch emblem relocation is definitely a consideration, and the decal may be a good option. I also like the BRE "Datsun" rear spoiler decal, but as near as I can tell from the BRE website, that decal can only be purchased as a set of 3. And Mike, given the originality of your cars, I can surely see why you wouldn't elect the decal option. Am I making the badges out to be more of a nuisance than they really are? I ask this question because my car has needed paint since I purchased it 6 or so years ago, so I've yet to buff or wax it (paint is faded on the hatch, spider-webbed on the left 1/4 panel and driver's door, as well as the roof.) Gary S.

In the planning stage for paint on my car, I've been thinking about issues that I might address in the process. I recently asked a question about the viability of fiberglass fenders on a daily driver in hopes of eliminating the niggling little dents that seem to inevitably show up there. I'm going to stick with factory, steel fenders, as several here suggested. But another issue that seems to be a bit of a hassle (or is it just me?) is washing and waxing around all the high-rise emblems on these cars. I know the badges are part of what makes a 240-Z what it is. But what I was thinking is, what if those emblems were duplicated in a decal instead of a badge? Dumb idea? Has anyone heard of such "badge decals" being offered anywhere? I'm talking about the hood emblem, fender emblems, C-pillar emblems, hatch emblems (I'm probably forgetting some?). Thoughts? Gary S.

Just want to say thank you to everyone who weighed in on this question. I discussed these options with one of the painters I'm considering, and he also expressed a preference to work with the metal fenders that are presently on the car as opposed to fiberglass. Monday or Tuesday I should hear from him on his estimate. Gary S.

Hey Steve. It's your ad that prompted my interest in the subject. Gary

Hi John. Thanks for the reply. I'm not concerned about weight, the car is a mostly stock daily driver. If I did go fiberglass, it would be in the stock fender configuration. I'm not really too concerned about rust, as the car is fair weather only. But the metal fender's susceptibility to denting is a big concern. To spend the money on paint and bodywork and have that go all for naught with minimal carelessness concerns me. So, are all fiberglass fenders prone to cracking, or are some better engineered and reinforced than others? Gary S.

I'm considering fiberglass fenders when it's time to paint my car. The metal fenders seem to dimple easily, and fiberglass would seem to eliminate this issue. So, I'm curious, for those who have considered this option, which did you choose, and why. Thanks, Gary S.

I've often heard them referred to as "5 slot", or simply "slots". FWIW, Gary S.

Hi Jeffrey. Damn, that's pretty cool. I did a search on this forum for "Bob Sharp GT-33", and three threads came up. This one had the most posts: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28319&highlight=Bob+Sharp+GT-33 and it contains this link to some interesting info. on zcar.com: http://web.archive.org/web/20020607042848/zcar.com/month/2001/10/ The white / gold car in the zcar feature even has the similar paint scheme and the offset GT-33 insignias on the hood like yours. Gary S.

NUMMI (New United Motor Manufacturing, Incorporated) is / was a joint venture between GM and Toyota in Fremont, CA. This American Life did a radio story on March 26, 2010, that discusses NUMMI's history in fascinating detail. Here's how This American Life describes the show: NUMMI A car plant in Fremont California that might have saved the U.S. car industry. In 1984, General Motors and Toyota opened NUMMI as a joint venture. Toyota showed GM the secrets of its production system: how it made cars of much higher quality and much lower cost than GM achieved. Frank Langfitt explains why GM didn't learn the lessons – until it was too late. Audio Link here: http://www.thisamericanlife.org/sites/all/play_music/play_full.php?play=403&podcast=1 I found this story fascinating. Gary S.

Jon, what a great spring break project. How about an update? Any particularly useful tips or troublesome travails to share? Gary S.

You people in public radio really do have way too much time on your hands. I might have to re-think my contribution! Gary S.

From the Seattle craigslist, here's the verbage: "i am posting this for my buddy it is a 1971 datsun 240z and let me just say i have seen the car it is amazing garaged and never really driven since 1976. 19,500 original miles fully documented original everything even the original battery and tires. very hard to find another one out there that is even comparable i have spent a couple hours online looking still have not found one as original and low miles. serious people only please no tire kickers. the pictures arent that good taken at night with flash can provide better pics soon" Ad pictures posted below, actual ad linked here: sale-zrdcx-1640302783@craigslist.org Legal stuff - I don't know the seller, it's not my car, don't know if the claims are accurate, etc., etc. Gary S.

Hello Mike, and welcome from Spokane as well. And I'll second spitz17's request for pictures. Curiously enough, my Z car is a '71, my 911SC is a '78, and my MX-5 is a '91 BRG. So, needless to say, I like your taste in cars! Welcome aboard! Gary S.

Sumitomo HTRH4's, 195/70 - 14's on American Racing Libre's - with Euro Spec. springs and KYB's. Purchased from Sears on 9/08/2005 for ~ $50.00 apiece. Gary S.

Happy to help! It's really fun (and inspiring) to watch your car come together. Gary S.

Now, heading the other direction: Photo 1 - Starter connections - The large White w/ Red Male Spade connects to the Starter Solenoid. The Black female spade goes to the tang on the solenoid. Photo 2 - The next grouping has a Yellow w/black female bullet that goes to the oil pressure sending unit, a plastic male "T" 2 wire connector (Yellow and White w/Black) that goes to your alternator, a ring connector (Black) to post 'E' on the alternator, and the larger gauge White w/Red I believe goes to post 'A' if you're running a stock 240Z alternator, or to post 'B' if you're doing the 280ZX upgrade. (Note: Photo is of the 280ZX alternator) Photo 3 - There is a 6 pin connector that goes to your voltage regulator (the photo shows the connector with the adapter plug for the 280ZX alt. upgrade in place, but this is the connector that would go to the voltage regulator in a stock configured car). Visible in this photo is a single female bullet (Blue) that plugs into the capacitor mounted on the fender with one of the voltage reg. mounting screws. Next wire (not shown), which will be just before the harness passes through the radiator surround, is a sheathed Red female connector that connects to the trouble lamp. After that, you're on to lights and horns at the front of the car. I'm running Dave's harness upgrade so I didn't take any pictures of this area, but I believe the connectors are all specific to their respective counterparts. Good luck, and again, it's looking fantastic. Gary S.