7T1240

I say go for it Arne, then you and your wife would each have a Datsun to drive to Canby. Ask the seller if he'd like to trade for the yellow Z! Good luck, Gary S.

Hi Dave...welcome! I'm in Spokane, but I have relatives in Portland so I'm there on occassion. You'll be hearing from other Oregon and Western Washington members. They're a great group and very knowledgeable. I'm writing to alert you to the fact that you need to correct a serious ommission. A '70 240Z that you've owned since '79? I clicked on your gallery and there are no photos!!! Post some pictures ASAP - pretty please! Gary S.

sakijo and gregs240z, Does Grundy have an exclusion for occassionally driving a classic car to work as was mentioned with Hagerty? Thanks, Gary S.

I heartily agree! It's really nice to get a visual image of what a color change looks like...and this one is excellent. Gary S.

Quesion: Does DHL show a signature for receipt, or did they simply leave it on a doorstep with a driver's note to that effect? If the buyer or an agent of the buyer (family member, co-worker etc.) signed, there is proof of delivery. If DHL noted "package left at screen door" or the like, then DHL may have some responsibility. You may even be able to check for the signature online. Suggestion: When I ship something sold on ebay, I too retain the tracking number, and follow it to it's destination. When the shipping company shows delivery, I immediately send the buyer an email saying something to the effect of "I see your item was delivered today...hope you're pleased. If you're so inclined, please leave feedback." Just an idea. Gary S.

The Atlantic Z article says they are not very expensive - you can probably get them from NAPA, Schucks, Autozone, maybe Sears? Usually you can check them out if you buy your struts from Schucks, Autozone, etc. Also, local rental places (Rent-X, etc.) typically rent them as well. Gary S.

Here's a nice write-up with pictures from one of my favorite tech sections. They do remove the whole assembly. The second photo as you scroll down shows a picture of a spring compressed with a spring compressor. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/frontstruts/index.htm Gary S.l

Thanks...and curse you Vic! I had been to your site earlier this month when you posted about Nissan Sport magazine, and then spent the next week or so reading up on the infatuation your photos inspired, the roadster. Just when that pot had begun to simmer, you go and post these pics and put it back on full boil! Love the roadsters! Question for you Vic. Elsewhere on your site you have the master cylinder decal. How does one take that to create an actual decal? (I have a naked vacuum booster, this would dress it up nicely.) Envious of your weather (Spokane - 39 degrees and 6 inches of melting snow / slush). Gary S.

Sulio, hello. Great photos. Have you seen all of these cars personally, or did you pull the images off the net? My favorites: The black 260Z and jet photo (those auxiliary driving lights give the front end a whole different look), the silver Z parked at the roadside at sunset, the yellow z with Panasports in front of the hillside pasture, the #8 white with blue stripes racecar, and, of course, the G-nose! Thanks for sharing them! Gary S.

Also found this by doing a Google search for Sanford, Florida Auto Wrecking: Sanford Auto Salvage Howard Chiu 1101 Albright Rd. Sanford, FL 32771 407-321-3371 Gary S.

Hey Jim, I don't think this is the yard you're looking for, but they do have 240Z parts (don't know if it's a disassembled car with no shell or an intact car): http://www.partsfinder2k.com/index.html Phone is 1-800-592-1257. Ask them about parts from a silver 1970 240Z. Good luck, Gary S.

So Will doesn't need the dash, as we've learned it's not necessary for a 300 point car. And with this revelation, the price of NOS dashes are now plummeting around the country:cheeky: . But have no fear, I will happily take that dash off your hands for my pedestrian daily driver at a fire sale price...and I'll even pay for shipping!:bandit: Gary S.

Okay Jim, yes, I hadn't seen that. If that is the grommet, it seems odd to me that they would offer the grommet for the 240Z, and not offer it as part of the whole shift boot. It also seems odd that it is offered as a part for the 280ZX in the adjacent window. Also, the way the diagram is laid out, it appears to go under the inner rubber boot. Here's a link to page 27 of the current Black Dragon online catalog (59-116 as item #5 for 240Z's, 59-116 as item #3 for 280ZX's): http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0027.html Gary S.

Hey Jim, I just took a peek in my Black Dragon catalog, and part number 59-116 is grouped with 1979 to 1983 280ZX Shift Boot parts (59-116 being described as "gear shift lever boot"). I don't think that's gonna help us out for the early boot grommet. Gary S.

Hi Carl and all, I find discussions about Z values to be one of many interesting parts of this hobby. (Perhaps in an attempt to justify my expenditures!) I've been attracted to the Black Pearl cars: a.) Since I narrowly missed out on one repo'd by a Couer d'alene bank a number of years back, and b.) since I read on zhome that this model variation is considered to be one of the most collectable. I'd like to understand a little bit better why this is so. Carl, why would the car potentially have double the value if it were parted out? And why are nice Black Pearls ascending in value to this extent? Thanks, Gary S.

Snipped: Jim, hello. After reading this post, I immediately clicked on you user name, and then the photo gallery link...and was disappointed to see no photos of these incredible early Z's. Will you consider posting some photos? It would be a treat for all of us! Gary S.

Snipped: Lesson learned from this thread - NEVER throw any parts away! I replaced my original which had the grommet this summer (as the vinyl was brittle and cracked through in a couple of places) with the lace-up Nissan replacement, and I can see now I probably should have kept it. To both 240 in OZ and LBO730, I guess you can count me with geezer as an interested party if and when a reproduction is made. Gary S.

Snipped: On the CDM website, after clicking on "240Z Parts, then on the header "Misc", the description for the color of the rattle can that Les Cannaday sells is as follows: "Rear panel/hubcap gray paint in spray can matched from NOS parts. (not actual color sample)" It is also my recollection that when I placed my order with Les several weeks ago for this very product that he said that it is indeed for the rear finisher panel and the wheels. I did not ask him about the grill. McKrack, you might want to call Les to verify either the item description on his website or your memory of what you say he told you. I'd be interested to know what you learn. Gary S. BTW, the rattle cans Les sells are from Sherwin-Williams Automotive division, FWIW.

Hi Cody, As another Washingtonian, and a Spokanite nonetheless, I join theianmonster in welcoming you to the board. Are you in Spokane proper, or up in Deer Park? (Just had breakfast at Pauline's in Deer Park yesterday morning, and enjoyed it.) There's invaluable information to be found here on the website. Use the search function for common questions and don't hesitate to post when you need advice or are in a tight spot...there are some great, knowledgable people here. Gary S.

Hi Bob. Your first guess is correct, I taped them off. For the outer chrome rim, I used 1/4" easy release painters tape (3M green) to section off the chrome from the painted area, then used a 2" roll of the same type tape around the outer rim, finally folding it over to meet the 1/4" strip and covering all exposed chrome. For the black center cap area, I again started with 1/4" tape where the chrome ring meets the paint, and then wrapped and fixed the 2" tape to the first 1/4" of tape, folding the excess into the middle to cover the center. As seems to be the case with most painting projects, the prep and taping takes as much or more time than the actual painting. Prep in this case involved thoroughly washing the hubcaps, drying them, lightly scuffing the surface to be painted with a 3M scotchbrite pad, wiping the hubcaps clean again with an isopropyl based cleaner/degreaser, then the taping an painting.

e_racer, hello. Good question, I did consider it. However, I asked Les about clearcoat when I ordered the paint, and he said originally the wheels were painted with just the color coat, no clearcoat. In the interest of attempting to maintain originality, I went with his input. Gary S.

Dan, hello. I wouldn't describe it in those terms. It's a fairly smooth texture. I went with what Les sells because of his involvement in the Z restoration program. I wonder, was the texture rougher as new from the factory, or simply as a result of aging? Gary S.

Thought I'd post some pictures of my recent wheel refurbishment. I bought the aerosol wheel paint from Les Cannaday - www.classicdatsun.com For the black centercap area, I used an SEM product - "Colorcoat Flexible Coating" - Landau Black #15013. I sprayed small amounts of this color into a clean 8 oz. cup and brushed it onto the centercap with a #4 hobby paint brush. The centercap color match was spot on to my eye. First photo is a before picture, with spokes somewhat faded and center black area flecked off in places Second photo is of refurbished wheel. Third photo is the SEM Landau Black product. Gary S.

Try this link, covers the adjustment process in depth. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6231&highlight=window+adjustment Rainin' here in Spokane too - with wind gust up to 60 mph! Gary S.

Snipped Actually, the smallest Challenger has a 9000 lb. capacity - albeit as a two post. This is the model my friend has. He uses it to store his early Carrera RS over his '80 911SC, as well as for maintenance, and he paid ~$2800 for it in 2002. And yes, the smallest four post is rated at 12,000. Is excess capacity a problem? If pricing on two similiar models is equal, wouldn't increased weight capacity be a benefit? Also, if there is real added value in durability (over-engineered might equate to lasts longer), flexibility (maybe one day I own a truck or SUV, or perhaps a relative or friend who owns same would like access to the lift), or safety / peace of mind (ain't no way the E-type is gonna break this sucker!) a price premium might be worth it to some. It's all about choices. The Challenger website has a link to all ALI members, which is think is really helpful: http://www.autolift.org/members.html Go to the homepage of this website, and you can learn about lifts broken out by type - 2 post, 4 post, etc. Snipped Personally, I'm looking at the lift pictured below! Gary S.