7T1240

Hi Rich, This morning I spoke with a friend to see what his lift is. It's a Challenger: http://www.challengerlifts.com/about.shtml My friend chose it at least in part because a local Porsche mechanic, (Hartmut Leuschner,Alpine Motors in Hayden Lake, ID. 208-762-7914) has a number of them in the his shop. I visited the Challenger website briefly and they meet your criteria in at least two ways - they sell a 4 post and they are ALI/ETL certified. They cite Ford and Michelin as two of their customers, and there is a lot of info on their website. Just another option for you to check out. Gary S. (who hopes to be following in your footsteps lift-wise in the near future!)

For the Left and Right side, try Cocoa Auto Salvage (Cocoa FL.) A- condition, part #5L4355 - $50 ea. 1-800-347-0928 Gary S.

Steve, hello. If I'm picturing what BillD is saying in this previous quote, the ramps push by the "mechanical locking tabs" on the way up, the tabs drop down into the support position, then the ramps are lowered onto the tabs, supporting the ramps and eliminating the concern for hydraulic failure. BillD, can you confirm? Gary S.

Rich, and Bill D, hello. Please educate me a bit. I've been interested in lifts as well, and a friend has a 2 post lift. I have been attracted to it because of the ability to work on wheels, brakes, suspension etc., and I'm quite certain my friend uses his 2 post for over/under car storage as well. Why your preference for the 4 post? Thanks, Gary S.

Dave, hi. I just came across the Forza article after doing a 240Z search on google, and hit on that article. Congratulations on the XBox recordings, the new 240, the publicity and the sales of your wiring harness...I'm happy as could be with mine. Also, mally002 is looking for some Z hubcaps, see this thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24091 Happy Holidays! Gary S.

Hi Randy, It looks like Jim Frederick may have you covered. If not, here are a couple of other ideas. I did an ebay search in an attempt to find the hubcap auction you mentioned. I did not find an auction where the seller had no feedback, but I did find this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-76-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-HUBCAPS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ140745QQihZ020QQitemZ300055167471QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW The seller looks legit, and I would expect these hubcaps to go for more than his starting bid. As far as the $249.00 ebay radio, that seems expensive, even from a seller who specializes in refurbishing Z electrical items (unless you are doing a concours restoration). Are you looking for an AM or AM-FM? Rose Auto Wrecking in Portland Oregon has an AM-FM from a 1973 240Z in "A" grade condition - stock 11DA73 - call for pricing: 800.452.0760. Good luck, Gary S.

Well deserved Henry. Your car has the type of ownership history that is envious and sought after. Hi there Jim. I think I have a line on one as well through a similiar source. Do you recall how much yours cost you? Gary S.

Hi Henry, I just took a peek at your profile and gallery...nice car! Anyway, my question is did you (or can I) source the 280ZX distributor and E12-80 module as new parts, thus addressing the "You still have an old distributor with worn internal parts." part of your statement? I thought the E12-80 was hard to come by, and maybe only available used? Max, if you go this route, how will you source your changeover parts? Gary S.

I stand corrected, thanks Arne. And just out of curiousity, is this also the case for the spare? Gary S.

Hi Randy, The stock steel wheels were painted black. Now, whether there is a particular source for the absolute correct color I can't say, but you could contact Les Cannaday, a restoration specialist who was involved in the Nissan restoration program. His website is: http://www.classicdatsun.com/ Click on contact to email him. He's a good source for numerous Z resto items, including the correct paint if your "Z" hubcaps need a little touching up. Gary S.

Personally, I like the American Racing Libre wheels for the 240Z Check out this ad on San Francisco craigslist, with tires. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/240715558.html Glad to see you found a car. Gary S.

Hi Michael, welcome aboard. You've got to tell us more about your car...love the 240Z in silver! Gary S.

Use this link to go to the "Where To Buy SEM Products" page. http://www.sem.ws/where_to_buy.php Gary S.

Hi Bruce, I've used SEM product to renew the carpets, center console and ash tray/fuse cover on my '71. However, I was not aware of these products. Great job! As Will said, it'll be interesting to see how it holds up. Gary S.

Hi Todd, thanks for the checklist. Have you gone through one of these and renewed the seals and gaskets? If so, is this a home mechanic with hand tools job? Sounds like I need to get the car up in the air and just have a good look-see. BTW, where's Mckenna? rtaylor, thanks. This is helpful in the event that only the fluid change and cover gasket need to be addressed. Gary S.

Last weekend, before putting the car away for winter, I took it to a self-serve car wash to do some detail cleanup on the inner fender wells. While I was there I decided to blast off the accumulated gunk on the cover plate for the rear diff. The accumulated gunk appeared to be mostly around the seam between the cover plate and the diff., and then back onto the cover plate. This started me thinking about maintenance for this component. At first blush I would think to drain and replenish fluid, and check torque on the cover plate bolts. To go one step further might include removing the cover plate and replacing the gasket. Are there other leak sources I should be looking for? Any other tips or suggestions? (Car has about 83,000 miles on it...'71 series I.) Gary S.

In the interest of disseminating accurate information on this forum, I am posting some information that was shared with me by another forum member. To note: The ONLY function of the Accessory relay is to power the Rear Window Defrost circuit. If the Acc Relay fails, you don't have R Window Defrost, but everything else will still work. The BLOWER connects to the same Blue/Red wire that powers the Acc Relay but is independent of the Acc Relay (you could even remove the Acc Relay and you would still have power at the blower). So, the only reason to check the Blue / Red wire at the ACC relay is to verify power, because that Blue / Red wire supplies power to the blower motor before it gets to the ACC relay. Gary S.

Not a stupid question at all Walter. I did check the fuse, as well as the fuses in the fuse box...all is well. I'm beginning to feel more confident that the relay is the problem. More on that later. Gary S.

Hi Stephen, PM comin' your way. Gary S.

Okay guys, here's an update in my attempt to troubleshoot my heater blower. After removing the glovebox, I removed the blower motor and housing from the car. Took a look at the resistor and it appeared intact. I used a battery tender as a power source and connected to the leads on the blower motor - it spun right up. Next, I used the VOM to check the switch - switch checked okay. Then, I connected the switch to the blower via the subharness and applied power and ground from the battery tender. Clicked on the switch and on came the blower, and it increased speed as the switch was rotated to medium and high. This end of the system works just fine. Next, with key in the "ON" position, I tested for power at the blue power wire with the inline fuse - nothing. So I dug out the wiring diagram, and I think I'm seeing that the blue power wire for the blower ties into a red w/ blue wire that comes off the accessory relay located to the right in the passenger footwell. The relay gate is fed by a white w/ red wire, if I'm interpreting the gate diagram correctly. With the key either "ON" or off, there is power to the white/ red wire at the relay connector, but no power on the red/blue side. I thought maybe the relay only makes when the fan switch is employed, so I carried the blower back out to the car and hooked it all up, turned on the switch and - no blower. Again tested the white/red accessory relay feed and the red/blue relay exit with the VOM and got thesame results as before - power at the white/red, nothing at the red/blue. So??? Is the relay bad? Is there another way to test the relay? Or have I taken a completely wrong turn somewhere? Thanks, Gary S.

time and motivation...AND Money! As the $$'s add up on my own refreshing project (well before any paint or bodywork) I've contemplated the cost of doing a car right - like this one! I've heard several times that it is less expensive (although not nearly as rewarding, especially for a father/son tandem) to buy someone's completed project after it's done and they have perhaps fallen out of love with it or moved in a different direction. The work looks great, and yes, the color is beautiful. Okay, enough shameless patronizing - so Bruce, let me just say that if you ever decide to sell...:classic: BTW, I heard a fun joke about the car hobby the other day - "How do you make a small fortune in collectible automobiles? Start with a large one! Cheers, Gary S.

Thanks for this suggestion Panamared. I have heard of the elusive 'resistor', but your post prompted me to do a search. Lo and behold, I now see that the resistor is out of site, inside the blower housing. D@%n, I wish I had gotten deeper into this while I had the dash out. And Jimmy, thank you also. I came up with a power source to test the blower in the car, although I have not done so yet. I did, however, use it to power up a 280Z blower I purchased a while back to upgrade the unit in my car...it spun up nicely. Again, I'm thinking for easiest access I should remove the glovebox. Maybe this weekend? Gary S.

MarkDixon, I have the same year car - 1971 - and possibly a similiar problem, no blower motor. First Gen Z, can you give a more detailed example? Do you run a hot wire off of a connector underdash? Or from somewhere else? I believe there are two wire leads that come off the blower motor in my car. Do you hook directly to one of them? Also, it's pretty tight up in there, would you suggest pulling the fiber board glovebox for easier access? Gary S.

Okay Enrique, Arne and Jim, thank you all for your responses. I think this addresses my current round of questions. Two devices are still not working, the heater blower and the radio. I can see some other questions coming up in the near future, but I'll post them at the appropriate time. Arne, it took me a while to realize that the color of the car in your avatar has changed. I clicked on your homepage link and read the story. Mister, between the story of the Z hubcaps and the red car (not to mention Deanna's tolerance of this wacky hobby!), you are leading some kind of charmed life. Congratulations! And please, the next time one of these gems falls into your lap and you are alerting your fellow Oregon and Washington Z enthusiasts, count me in as one who'd be interested!!! Regards to all, Gary S.

Recently, I removed my dashboard to replace a somewhat hacked up wiring harness with a good original harness (and correct P/N's 24013-E4650 and 24013-E4651 for my production date of 11/70 and manual transmission). At the time of removal, I numbered all of the connectors that were OEM (forgive my rudimentary tape system shown in the pics) for transferral to the new harness. However, there was some wiring on the old harness that was spliced into and some that was not connected. The dash is back in the car with good results (car starts and runs, multifunction and turn signal functions all work, flasher works, foglights work, etc). But, I need help making a few final connections. First Photo Below: At question are two fusible links and a "T" connector to the right of the transmission tunnel. The fusible link on the left with the tape attached is a female bullet connector. What does this attach to? The fusible link on the right is a female spade connector. What does this attach to? At the top of the photo is a plastic "T" connector - 2 wires - Black w/ white and Green. What does this connect to? Second Photo Below: The two wires in question here are again from the dash harness center area, emerging to the right of the transmission tunnel (assuming I routed them correctly). The top wire is a Blue Female bullet connector. What does this attach to? Below the blue female bullet connector is a Red w/black Female spade connector. What does this attach to? Third Photo Below: In question are three wires which are part of the fan control switch to blower motor sub-harness. (My routing may not be correct on these?) Far left - Blue Female Bullet connects to? Black wire with fork terminal connects to? Red Male Bullet connects to? Thanks, Gary S.