7T1240

My garage construction project began in earnest last fall, continued with the electrical this past winter, and ended with interior / exterior trim etc. this summer. Finally got vehicles in late this summer. Pic 1 - '71 Z with '91 Miata in background. Pic 2 - '96 Nissan Pickup. Pic 3 - far right = '78 911SC (and 16' kayak dangling above :eek:). Gary S.

I'll throw my hat in the ring...and keep my fingers crossed! Gary S.

Looks good Randy. After installing my newly refinished console, I took one of these gel sticky pads and cut it to size for the coin tray...don't want items like coins or your tire gauge marring your new finish! http://www.handstands.com/retail/automotive-accessories/jelly-stickypad.php Gary S.

I used the SEM Laundau Black to paint my center console and am very happy with the results. I also used the same SEM paint to do the centercaps on some original "D" style hubcaps. That thread is here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24437&highlight=SEM Gary S.

Asking price is $12000. More details in the craigslist post. Not mine...just a heads up. Looks pretty sweet, could be of interest to someone here. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/car/557035884.html Gary S.

...and Jerry, I've also used Wheels America http://www.fixrim.com/ for wheel repair / refurbishing. They have a facility here: 1357 STRAIGHT PATH, WYANDANCH, NY 11798 Phone: 631-253-0278 or toll free: 888-334-9746 I was pleased with the work they did for me. Gary S.

RHChew (and Jerbear), Saw these recently on San Diego Craigslist (right in your neighborhood RHChew!): http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/544061204.html Don't know if they're exactly what you're looking for, but I thought it was worth a mention. Gary S.

Hi Mike. I also noticed the lack of a braided cover on the ebay part, and it did not dissuade me from bidding. The hose currently on my car that comes off the brake master cylinder, although somewhat frayed, is a (most likely original) braided hose. However, the brake vacuum hose on my car which comes off the manifold is a genuine Nissan part (still has the part sticker attached to it) and it is rubber only - no braided cover. And when I did the search on nissanparts.org it showed the original part number for the ebay part has superceded to a new number, #47471-E4603. I can't say for sure, but I believe it quite possible that the newer part number may indeed be the rubber hose with no braided cover as sold by "datsun-parts". When I receive the ebay part, I'll post what I find...genuine Nissan or other. Gary S.

Well, I wish I had seen this thread before I made last nights ebay purchase - a brake vacuum hose. I pulled the part number from the club parts CD (47471-E4601) and plugged it into nissanparts.org and came up with an internet price of 38.95 before shipping. I figured anything below $30 would be a good deal. Here's the auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=160197445890 Not much risk on my part for a $25 part, and it is advertised as the proper part for my year (11/70 build date, sold as a 1971). Also, I must say I'm pleased the seller has already posted positive feedback for me, before I have received the item (indeed, even before it has shipped). As was mentioned in an earlier post, sellers will often use negative feedback as retribution from an honest buyer with a legitimate complaint (my one negative in over 100 transactions was exactly this situation). When the part arrives, I'll follow up here if there's any problems. Gary S.

I'm going to reply here just so I can subscribe to this thread and follow your progress...way to go Will! Gary S.

I have an email notification which lets me know when a 240Z comes up for sale. This morning one showed up with the 303 area code worded thusly: 1972 240Z, 1 owner, low miles, original wheels and hubcaps. $3500 It sounded promising, so I called, but was dismayed to get an answering machine. Sometime later this afternoon, the seller returned my call and informed me that the car was sold. I thanked him for calling me back and told him I wasn't surprised to hear that it had sold, as it sounded like a good one. I couldn't help myself, so I asked him about the "low miles". He said 43,000. I said, "Your'e kidding?" He explained that he was not kidding, that he bought the car new, drove it a couple of years, needed something bigger, etc. I asked him to keep my number "just in case", but he said it was pretty much a done deal, the guy left a check and he signed over the title. So, in a total state of depression I am writing to ask if it was any of you Denver / Lakewood area guys who made the purchase. I'd feel better knowing it went to somebody on the board. Darrel? Daniel? Eric? Lonetreesteve? Gary S.

Never mind. I looked in Motorsports catalog, and they sell the same hub adapter for '70 through '83 Z's. I lightly filed a few splines on the new hub that looked slightly marred, brushed a little anti-seize on, and used a rubber mallet to encourage the hub to slide onto the spline. I'm hoping tomorrow's test drive shows the steering wheel to be aligned correctly. Gary S.

Recently, I purchase a nice used Personal / Nardi Steering wheel. The ebay auction said the wheel and hub adaptor were fitted to a 1978 280Z. It arrived today. I came home and pulled the stock wheel. The Nardi hub adaptor starts onto the shaft splines, then binds. Are the splines on the steering shaft of the Series 1 240-Z a different size than those on a 1978 280Z? Or, put another way, are 240Z and 280Z steering wheels not interchangeable? Thanks, Gary S.

If so, can you email it to me? After it was removed from this site, I emailed Carl and requested a copy of his Pertronix install. He sent it, and I saved it on a hard drive that somehow was corrupted last week, just about the time I received my Pertronix coil and ignitor. So, if anyone has a copy they can email me, PM me and I'll provide an email address for you. Thanks, Gary S.

I saw this beauty on Denver craigslist last night and investigated a bit further. The craigslist ad lists "Lone Tree" as the location - big clue to the connection to Steve. The ad also shows closeup photos of the vin, and Steve lists the vin in his personal info. page - they are one and the same. I p.m.'d Steve last night to verify...haven't heard back yet. Point well taken Carl, good price for a beautiful car (and better yet, from a known and highly regarded entity)! Gary S.

I finally had some time tonight to address the grinding issue I was experiencing. Some things that I have noticed since the last posts in this thread: Changed the tranny fluid. Took a long drive last Saturday and, after the car was warmed up, I experienced balkiness shifting into 1, 2 and 3. And reverse required shutting the car off, shifting into reverse, and restarting the car to prevent grinding. While the high idle speed may have contributed to the grinding problem, it was not the primary cause. I have discovered that when rpm's do not lower to the proper level at idle, if I put my toe under the gas pedal and pull back gently the idle will decrease to 800 rpm's or so. This makes me think I may need to replace the return springs on the carb linkage. Or I may need to replace some bushings on the throttle shaft. Or both. After doing a search for "grinding" in Engine and Drivetrain and finding this thread -[http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17539] - I started by checking the adjustment of the slave cylinder. I made some incremental adjustments which either helped marginally to minimize the grinding or made it decidedly worse. (Also made note that the boot for the slave cylinder was dessicated and cracked and that the slave cylinder should probably be replaced.) Next, back to the manual and looked at the clutch adjustment section. The pedal was higher than the 8" spec. and the free play was excessive. Adjusted these two to reflect the manual settings (10 - 15 mm on the free play). Backed down off the ramps, did some tentative shifts into reverse, and no grinding. Took an extended test drive and shifting was trouble-free. It would seem the problem was - The clutch pedal was out of adjustment! Gary S.

Thanks to all who have replied...some good thoughts and suggestions. I believe city code says something about an additional structure not being more than half the lot width, our lot being 50'. Thus the 25' width. The depth is at least in part restricted by my wife (who is a co-contributor to the garage fund). She wants a little bit of back yard between an existing deck and the proposed garage to do a patio/courtyard/garden. 3 vehicles - '71 Z-car, '91 Miata, '78 911SC, for winter storage and wrenching. My initial thought on the 2-post was for both work on the cars and an over/under storage situation. I also believe there is a possibility of putting a car on casters (say, the Miata) and pushing it into a corner for storage. This might allow for a different lift setup - say a scissor lift. Actually I've been thinking about going 18' x 8'. The double wide door would make it easier to back out of the garage into the alley, where my neighbor's fence sits directly on their property line opposite the proposed garage door. And the 8' height is kind of at a salesman's suggestion, citing possible future resale value to SUV owners with bike or ski racks on top. Right now my current interest lies in SIP's (structually insulated panel sandwich of OSB/expanded polystyrene/OSB). Plans are sent off to a regional factory, they cut the SIP's to size including all rough openings, and then ship you 4 walls. But, until final drawings can be sent out to the SIP's manufacturer and a couple of stick-frame builders for estimates, I won't know for sure if the SIP's method is cost effective. The SIP's manufacturer is quoting about $5.50 / sq. ft. for the pre-fab. walls. The company is R-Control http://www.r-control.com/sips.asp This is a good point. I could look at building right to the back of the property line to get the additional 5', but we put a 5' apron there to make it a little easier to back into the already tight alley. I think I'll buy some stakes and play around with some of these configurations this weekend. Thank you for all the good thoughts and information. Gary S.

Hey 240ZX. Is there such a thing as an insulated roll-up door? I see you are in Southern California, where an insulated door might not be necessary, but it's desirable where I live. Gary S.

I am in the process of designing a garage with about a 25' x 25' pad. The way it is currently configured, the garage door will be on one of the gabled ends. One of the items on my wish list is a lift, probably a 2-post symetrical, and the current ceiling height is drawn at 12', with the possible addition of scissor trusses to allow a bit more overhead clearance. Question: For those of you who have built garages on the smaller side, how did you configure your garage door and lift placement to resolve the issue of avoiding interference between your garage door and a vehicle raised on the lift? Specifics on garage door manufacturer, type and placement of opener and track configuration are of particular interest. Thanks, Gary S.

Hi Arne. Okay, I'll start by checking to make sure there's no air in the clutch hydraulics. Beyond that, as I mentioned, I don't recall any problem engaging reverse at startup, with the choke on and the revs lower. And I have no grinding on any of the forward gears, either with the car cold or hot. Next opportunity I have to get the car up to full driving temp., I'll reset the idle speed also. As luck would have it, I have two bottles of MT-90 on the shelf, so I'll give this a go as well. Am I correct in believing that the synthetic is compatible with the dino-lubricant, so a drain well and refill with synthetic approach is acceptable? Thanks, Gary S.

Had the good fortune to sneak the car out of the garage for a late winter drive this past weekend. At startup, with choke pulled and a low idle, engaging reverse to back out of the driveway was no problem. After a nice long drive and returning to the garage, I overshot my spot a bit. When I selected reverse to back up I got a grinding sound from the tranny. The rpm's were too high, about 1300. Will lowering rpm's relieve the grinding, or is there more to it than that? Thank, Gary S.

Arne...how about this one. Owned by a BMW mechanic. The truck lived in Nevada and California...and it's light blue! http://sandiego.craigslist.org/car/279631308.html Just trying to contribute to your deliquency. Gary S.

I dug my wheels out today. There is no size inscription for size or offset that I can see on the wheel I looked at. I put a tape to the rim and came up with 6.25 from inside edge to outside edge, and 5.5 inches from bead to bead. Given what Carl and Arne have said, these wheels must be 14 x 5.5". The seller had advertised them as 14 x 6, and with no markings and not knowing better, I took him at face value. Gary S.

Enigma, I got the part about Dave being the second owner...I'm just hoping to see pictures of a two owner 240 where the second owner has had the car for 28 years. Gary S.

Well guys, now you've piqued my interest to the point where I can't wait to go to work tomorrow (if you can imagine that!). You see, my Libre's are in storage down at work, and for the life of me I remember them being 14 x 6's. Now you've got me wondering. I made an earlier post when I got them back from being refinished: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20025 They're definitely American Racing wheels (see attached photos). I'll check tomorrow and let you know. Edit - Sorry, for whatever reason I cannot upload a photo right now. Gary S.