=Enigma=

That is one sweet looking wheel. I don't believe I've ever seen basket weave that deep.

Now what fun is that?

I could be wrong on this, but I think it was only the early 240Zs that had no form of rust treatment. I don't know when this practice started but while stripping my 73, it was apparent that the main unibody structure had been treated in some way, perhaps with zinc? This was true for the front wheel wells (haven't gotten to the rear yet) and the floor pan, but other parts welded to the main structure did not get the same treatment. Examples of this are the cup like structure where the T/C rod mounts, strut towers, and the gusset plate above the boxed frame section behind the T/C rod mount. See pics below taken immediately after removing the tar and stripping the paint with Jasco.

Sounds like something Dave (Zs-Ondabrain) might be able to assist with due to his familiarity with these systems. Where are ya Dave?

Congrats on a nice looking find and welcome to the site.

Very interesting guys. I wonder if the early or prototype mounts were prone to bending?

Congrats on your find and welcome to the site. So far it looks like you got a great deal for $3400. If you're lucky, you won't find any cancer in the structural areas of the car. Is it just me or has there been a lot of new members with 73s over the last few months? Perhaps I'm just taking more notice of them since I'm a 73 owner. Just curious.

As texasz said, this is up to state law and may vary from state to state. Here in California the law concerning auxillary lights is as follows: Auxiliary Driving and Passing Lamps 24402. (a) Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two auxiliary driving lamps mounted on the front at a height of not less than 16 inches nor more than 42 inches. Driving lamps are lamps designed for supplementing the upper beam from headlamps and may not be lighted with the lower beam. ( Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two auxiliary passing lamps mounted on the front at a height of not less than 24 inches nor more than 42 inches. Passing lamps are lamps designed for supplementing the lower beam from headlamps and may also be lighted with the upper beam. If you're really interested, I recommend checking with your state's DMV site. http://www.bmv.ohio.gov/

Are you looking to stay original, if not, you could always mount an earlier bumper on the 73. All you need is the bumper and the earlier brackets. The holes are there to mount either version. At this point I think it's pretty much eBay, Craigslist or forum classifieds here or hybridz.

I know exectly what you mean. Time is my enemy as well but I manage to get in a couple hours every few weeks. Not nearly as much as I want but you gotta work with what your're given.

What about just cutting off the tips, rotating them 90 deg, and welding them back on? I haven't looked at these so I don't know if it feasible. Just a thought. You wouldn't get that slashed look but it's better than horizontal tips on a Z.

Thje 280Z stubs are stronger so if you come across a set of these on the net or a junkyard at a reasonable price grab em. I can vouch for the fact that getting them from the JY is a real PITA. I have a bulging vertebral disc to prove it. I should have just dropped the $175 the guy on eBay wanted. Instead I paid $225 for a complete rear suspension setup and well over $1000 for medical bills. Anyone need a complete 280Z rear suspension setup minus the stubs?

The link provided earlier works fine for me, or one of the admins fixed it? Try again... http://www.zhome.com

Glad you and the Z are ok. I'm constantly amazed at how stupidly people drive and have never been in an accident that was my fault or sustained any bodily injury. Hopefully I'll be able to maintain that record until me and the Z retire of natural causes to the big house in the sky.

Congrats. I know how hard it was just getting the undercoating off of the floor pans and wheel wells so I can only imagine the added fun in grinding, cutting, bending and welding in some new frame rails. The T/C box adds even more fun... Let's see some pics when you're all rested up.

Based on my reading the ZX master (15/16") is recommended when going to the S12W or converting from drum to disc in the rear and cergtainly when doing both. You might be able to get away with the original MC (7/8) when using only the S12 caliper. My pedal is nice and firm with very little travel. We'll see how it does once I get it back on the road.

Nice job as always Arne. Yet one more reason why I decided to start with a 73. Sometimes it's the little things like this that make a big difference. Intermittent wipers anyone?

Based on the severity of the rust on the dogled, I'd thoroughly check out your front frame rails, where they mount to the firewall, as well as the area below and behind your battery tray, and the wheel well area on the opposite sode of the battery tray. These common areas for rust, some of which include important structural areas. I also notices that you appear to be missing one of your brake booster hoses and check valve. Normally one hos somes off of the booster, to the check valve, and then from the check valve to the manifold vacuum port. Go here and scroll down the link for "Common Rust Area's On 240-Z's" for a reference to the areas I'm referring to: www.zhome.com.

Mine have several dents in them as well and I think it's a combination of one or two hits from below from road debris, and the others are from grease monkeys putting the thing up on lifts/jacks. Not the right thing to do but anyone unfamiliar with the cars could easily make that mistake.

I don't know if he still has any but here's an older post from our classifieds section: http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3365&cat=4

Welcome to the site and congrats on the acquisition. The majority of the users on this site have stuck with the L6 in one form or another (L24, L26, L28), but there are many exceptions and lots of options. If you were to take the L28 as far as it could go without forced injection, you might be able to squeeze 300+ HP out of it but it will be VERY expensive. Forced injection will get you there and more for less money, but most people looking for a "serious powerhouse" typically go another route. Depending on how far you want to go, you may need to do things like stiffening up the unibody, diff, diff mount, half shafts and stub axles.

I hate it when that happens.

If you really want to implement this, in a junkyard I recently saw a nice way of adding this. Basically you cut down a length of pipe roughly the same dimensions as the flexible tubing you'll be using to connect it to the air cleaner, and cut two slots in the base of the pipe on th eopposite sides, and then thread a stainless hose clamp though it and fasten it to the header tube. I've hacked together a crude illustration of this of this idea in mspaint below. Sorry Photochop is on my other machine.

I have the opposite problem on my 73', I was able to order the (non-braided) hose that goes from the booster to the check valve, but can't find a replacement for the hose between the manifold and check valve.

Now why would you do a thing like that? :stupid: