=Enigma=

I believe this is correct since the rear brake line from the master cylinder terminates in a T on the passenger side, with a short line to passenger side, and a longer line to the driver's side.

I'm still afraid to touch my dash with anything other then mild soap and water. I wish someone could tell us if it's even possible to "re-condition" or "re-moisturize" plastics, and specifically the material ours is made from. It seems like the idea that this is even possible may be a fallacy.

Man I really love the color of your Z. Is that the stock 920 gold? For some reason it looks much better than others I have seen.

Nice job. The Z might not be very aerodynamic, but at least your head won't cointribute any extra drag.

Agreed. The Infiniti Essence is one sweet looking ride. If I had the $$$$ and it was offered less than $50k, I would defintely have to consider this one unless it was underpowered, but there's usually remedies for that.

Agreed. Are you volunteering? Considering it's being administered by someone who's less interested in the appearance of the web page than the actual content, and the fact that he's probably old enough to be your grandfather (no offense Carl), I think it's just fine and appreciate the fact that he's taken the time to compile, attempt to validate, and share this info with us. As far as being better off with a 72, that really depends on what's still on the car you buy. The undesirable flat top carbs have in largely already been replaced with the earlier round tops by the POs, and in many cases, the later 2.5 & 5 mph bumpers bumpers have already been replaced for the earlier versions. If not, these items are not tough to do and parts can still be found used or reconditioned. I intentionally purchased a 73 because I wanted the intermittent wipers, reclining seats, backlit heater console, steel headlight buckets, and a few other items, but mostly because I planned on doing some mods and wanted to leave the earlier cars for those who are looking to do stock restorations. Silly perhaps but that was my thinking. In my case I plan on keeping the stock 2.5 mph bumpers (although that was not the original plan), and the PO already replaced the flat top carbs with round tops so I'm good there. If you're looking to do a V8 swap I recommend the 280Z. It's got the same exterior S30 body style as the 240 & 260 but the body may be a little stronger. That said, I still recommend some frame connectors and perhaps even some beefing up of the existing frame rails if you can even call them that with a straight face. Good luck with your project.

I don't want to hijack this thread but wanted to respond toa couple posts and provide some additional info. Thanks for the compliment Stephan. I love them too. I also have matching gold chrome McGard locking lug nuts which I had to wait 6mo for..... Thanks David. I like to brown/gold look together and plan to stick with the stock color. The gold wheels also go with the very subtle gold pin striping. I would say that you have to go to at least 15" wheels to use the S12W calipers, and depending on the wheels, some shaving of the caliper may be required. This is certainly true with Konig Rewinds and the S12W. See the notes in my Big Brake Upgrade flickr pics for more detail. Below is a picture of the rim to caliper clearance after shaving the caliper. Start here for the sequence and notes, moving to the right to follow the progression. Not so quick there Oiluj, this is going to depend on the wheel as you can plainly see below.

I bought a reprint for my 73 on eBay and use it in the garage when working on the Z. I consider it my "dirty" copy. The original does not get used in the garage in an effort to keep it clean. It should be noted that the photographs in the reprint (at least the copy I got) are overexposed and it's impossible to see any detail on them, however the diagrams are fine. When I need to look at one of the photos I break out the original. I actually got a partial refund of the purchase price from the seller on the reprint because of this issue. I felt that this was a fair deal and appreciated the seller's willness to work with me on this.

That looks great! I just stripped off some old deteriorated wood grain vinyl molding from mine and I'm still debating on whether I should find a replacement. The wood vinyl sounds cheesy but since my paint is brown, it actually looked pretty good.

Yeah, I can't wait to try mine out. I went with the 89-91' 4Runner S12W calipers and 84' 300ZX vented rotors on the front, and 89-94' 240SX calipers and 84' 300ZX brembo rotors on the rear with carbon fiber pads all the way around. Check the eye candy here . .

Here's a good place to start. When you're done reading the page, go to the base URL and chekc out the rest of the content on the site. http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm

Forget the grease. Just drill small access holes and use a long spray wand to treat the area with metal ready and then coat it with POR 15. If the area has any oil or grease on it it's probably best to use Marine Clean as well but this is really optional for hidden away areas like the interior of rocker panels or the inside of frame rails, etc. There's no need to put anything on top of this coating unless it will be exposed to UV light. Even then it's not absolutely necessary unless you care about it changing color.

The first thing I thought when I saw the cube was, "What the hell is that ugly thing?" I would never buy one myself, however there is a market for this sort of vehicle and like others pointed out, you play the game or you end up like GM and Chrysler. Like most interesting vehicles, the more I see it the more it grows on me. Remember the Avanti?

I did the same thing before taking note that there were numbers on them. After plating I decided I didn't want to rely on 35 year old bolts anyway and replaced with with new flanged head bolts and washers. However, I'm still curious what goes where. If you figured it out, please share.

Impact wrench and a gear puller did the trick for me but short of that Geezer's recommendation is the best route. However you'll probably still need the puller. I'm not sure I'd recommend banging on it with a hammer.

I hear ya Stephen. I tend to focus on the lighter side of things but I certainly see both sides. Perhaps the best thing to do in cases like this is report the post to the admins and let them decide what to do with it rather then police them ourselves and end up in personal conflict with other members. Back to my theory of life being too short.

I beg to differ....I bought one at my local parts store a year ago, and here's one online for you. http://www.courtesyparts.com/air-filter-1970-1972-240z-p-569040.html?cPath=7724_7752_8889& . .

Hogie, the attached zip contains a PDF of the body dimensions for a 73 240z including the info you're looking for. I'm pretty sure this measurement is the same on the 72 but you should probably check a few more dimensions to ensure they are the same. chassis-dimensions.zip.zip

Congrats Jim. I'm sure this must feel pretty great after all the hard work. I expect to post one of these woohoo!!! threads very soon myself.

Wider tires will always be more prone to wander and hunt lines and grooves in the road and can be exagerated by specific tread patterns. The steering on my 2002 BMW 525i is very tight but I still feel this effect on grooved roads or lines in the pavement from repairs. As interesting as this is, it is not the same as a wobble.

According to the 73-74 mod guide fuel pressure should read 3.4 to 4.2 lbs @ 1000 rpm at the fuel inlet line to the carb, so any pump that can put our between 3-5 lbs would be ideal. With such a small range a fuel pressure regulator would be a good idea when using anything other then a stock pump or one with a known output in this range. The round tops might be a little less sensitive to fuel higher pressures but I believe 5 lbs is as high as you want to go.

Let the shaving begin my brotha! You've got my support, and you better post some pics afterwards!

If you are planning an hi-po engine swap rust is an even greater enemy, and if there's rust on the fenders, there's probably plenty of rust elsewhere. Check all the common rust areas on the Z very very well. I hear people recommend poking these areas with an ice pick or screwdriver to test them, but if anyone came near my car with either of these I would knock em' out cold.

The electric fuel pump was added to many of the 73 & 74's as one part of a multi-step fix to address problems with vapor lock. This was very common on these cars and mostly related to the dreaded flat top carbs these cars received here in the US. This is documented pretty well here in the forums and elsewhere. Use the search feature or check out the following: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/73Mods.html or 1973 & 1974 Fuel System Mods.pdf courtesy of XenonS30.com

Funny stuff. I believe there is such a thing as being too politicaly correct and I hope someone is getting a good laugh at my expense somewhere in the world, be it based on my color, race, religion, demeanor or habits. Let's celebrate our differences, not hide from them. Life is just too short to sweat this kind of stuff. IMHO