=Enigma=

Hey Jim, I'm just finishing up the process of replacing all the evap hoses on mine and you really don't need that $87 hose. There are no pre-formed bends so you can just use a length of regular fuel rated hose for that one, and for the short one from the fuel filler to the evap tank. The latter one was out of stock or NLA when I ordered it a few weeks ago. If you haven't read this post by Arne already, check it out. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25857

Good point Stephen. You can obviously find more info over there on the swap, hence the reason I referred him, but you're right; if you don't use the search feature and ask intelligent questions on yet to be covered topics, it's possible you'll receive a less than a friendly response. I think things are generally a little friendlier over here due partly to the average age and maturity of the members, but this is not always the case....... .

As many have said before, ultimately a car is worth whatever the buyer is willing to pay for it. This depends on many factors such as the condition of the car, the desirablity of the particular model, year, VIN, factory options, originality, the economic conditions in your area, the demand for the type of car in a particular region (locally, nationally, and globally), and much more. In order to answer this question with any accuracy, all of these things will have to be quantified and understood. One good way to do this is to talk to a professional appraiser who's familiar with these cars and the collector car market in your area.

Spindle in front, rear axle shaft (commonly called a stub axle) in the rear. Get your part nomenclature correct! . .

That's just cruel and wrong............:disappoin . . .

Welcome to the board. Looks like a pretty nice find and the undercarriage doesn't look too bad, especially for a car that probably spent most of it's life in a state that I believe still salts its roads. Hopefully the PO didn't just paint over rust. If so, it will eventually rear its ugly head.

You can try tightening the spindle nut a little so see if that get rid of the play. You should still be able to turn the wheel easily by hand without too much effort. If that doesn't do the trick, check to see if your play is in the lower contraol arm bushings. If tightrning the spindle nut works, you probably just compensated for natural wearing of the bearings. To do this right, you should actually measure the pre-load on the bearings with a small scale after inspecting and, lubing or replacing the bearings. The adjustment procedure and pre-load weight can be found in FSM or a Hanes manual.

This is my personal favorite: FTW: For The Win Commonly used among geeks to express their enthusiasm for something. WTG AR280z, you geek!

Chris, you'd have to fight me for the door panels!!! Hey, here's some shots of what your Z might have looked like originally, except perhaps the Xenon spoiler. This is my 1973 240Z in #114 Metallic Brown. More pics via the link in my sig.

The reaction disk fits between the rear end of the push rod and the power piston, contributing to the overall length of the push rod. Without this, your pedal throw before engagement will be longer. If this is the issue, you'll need to re-adjust your push rod length after the reaction disk is put back in place. See attached image of a 1973 booster for reference. This is a little differnet than yours but will work for illustration purposes. If you haven't already, be sure to bleed your brakes when done. Based on the configuration of the piping on the car, start with the rear driver side, rear passenger side, front passenger side, and finally the front driver side. 1973 Brake Booster Diagram

I'm sure you can find lots of useful info here, however based on your choice of engine, you may have more luck on engine swap and related ignition and eletrical sytems over here: www.hybridz.org

Male cat pee/spray has got to be one of the worst smells on the planet. If that method actually works Carl, that is an excellent tip.

Remove the entire shell and you will have nothing left but a bunch of bolt on parts. Hence the term "unibody". :stupid:

Arne, I don't know if it's well executed or not, but it sure ir purty. Are you considering taking a run at it if it's a near authentic repro? I'd actually consider doing the same if it was streetable and about 5-7k less, but it's difficult to say how much it's worth without seeing it in person and knowing a little more detail on it. For me it was always about either a 510 or a Z, but the Z won out.

Sorry guys, but if you're talking about the show hosted by Bill Goldberg, I see this as just another lame arse reality show. Way too much personal drama for me. Maybe I'm just too old or something. I don't get the attraction. In the meantime, I'll be over on the Speed channel watching F1, GT, GP, MotoGP or Superbike racing. THESE are worthwhile motorsports events IMHO, but to each his own.

Welcome to the site. Almost anything can be found using the search feature. There's a couple diagrams in this thread. And I think it might even be for a 78. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31101

How the heck did you manage to get that first image aligned WAAAYYYYYY over there on the right. What a PITA. Looks to be a boost/exhaust temp gauge from Scarab. Interesting. Never seen one of those before.

Sounds like this might be due to a missing reaction disk. This part can fall into the brake booster when changing out the master cylinder. Also, switching the brake lines is only necessary when switching from an early style MC to a later style (not sure where the cut off was) and is supposed to happen at the MC, not the proportioning valve. Also, could you be confusing the safety switch with the proportioning valve? Note that the MC is clearly marked with F & R for front and rear. Use the search feature for more info on both issues. Here's a starter link for you: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23401

Looking good Wayne, Can't wait to see what it looks like when it's all back together. Do you have any of the before and after the bad paint job? Might be interesting to compare the two.

Congrats on your new project Russ. Hopefully, you won't have to deal with any rust but if you do, there are replacement parts for many areas that are frequently and issue, except perhaps the battery area and the T/C box. Those can be a real bitch if they're a problem. Hopefully the 10% still to be finished isn;t in these areas. But like you said, she will get whatever she needs. One recommendation we often share is to enjoy her for a while before diggin in for any major work. Many people like myself tear right into things before taking the time to "enjoy the ride", and other responsiblities get in the way and the car ends up on jack stands for years.......I'm near to the end of that but it's been a long time since I drove my baby.

They look great Michael. Nice pic too. I'm planning on adding a set soon as well, although I'll probably go the drill method after a short trial period.

Welcome to the site. You've had a project Z since 81 and it's still not finished? Time to get to it eh?

Hmmm... I use Lexoil on my leather and am pretty hapy with it, but this Vinylex stuff is made with silicone. Note sure I wanna go there. I guess I'm just gonna have to make an educated guess based on what I've read so far and take a leap of faith hoping for the best.......

Nice.....I gotta go back to the garage now and and continue working on getting the Z back on the road. And I thought I was done for the night..

I saw your add as well and wondered why you were selling. probably not the best time to do so as others have stated. I'm not sure I'd be dumping money in it to get the price up as you rarely get back the money you have invested. It would be a shame to invest another $1500 in the car only to see the price go up $500-$750. Anyway, good luck with whatever decision you make. At least you will still have one Z when all is said and done.