=Enigma=

Sorry Chris, I swapped out the original dizzy and added an MSD 6AL and Blaster coil some time ago. In the process I ran some new wiring and wrapped it all up so it is no longer visible. If I recall correctly, the original wiring was as follows: BW from IGN SW (start) to Coil + B from Coil - to dizzy GW from Ballast to Tach BW from IGN SW "run" to Ballast Condensor to Coil + This is from memory so I could be wrong on this. I recommend double checking a wiring diagram to confirm. You can also check the before/after pics I took of the 280ZX dizzy and B210 coil swap. There may be some pics where you can see the original wiring with the ancient Lucas coil and the replacement from a 79? B210.

Hey that's great news. As an upside, you now know that everything else you checked is also 100%. Happy cruising!

Welcome to the site Chris and congrats on your new purchase. Let the fun begin!

I got mine out using a slide hammer of sorts as Arne sugested. Worked like a charm. Heating the outer tube slightly might help as well but don't get carried away. Too much heat transfer to the insert will make it even harder to get out. And don't forget that the insert is filled with oil and may be under pressure depending on the type of insert. Don't forget to wear your goggles.

It appears that Jim Cook Racing may still be in business. http://www.jimcookracing.com/index.old.html

You must use the 2+2 flywheel with the 2+2 pressure plate and clutch disk. They have a larger frictrion surface (240mm vs 225mm) than the 2 seater version and a stronger pressure plate. I believe the 2+2 non-turbo flywheel is the same weight as the coupe. Mixing and matching doesn't sound like a good idea. And besides, what would be the point of using a smaller friction surface that didn't match up with the friction disk and pressure plate?

I'm guessing a little glue to hold on the various sleeving types, and a stiff wire on the inside to hold the shape of the hose. Nice look, but a PITA to make and maintain. That said, this seems like an affordable alternative to the stock unobtainium.

Just to be sure, if all you're looking to do is replace the strut insert, there is no need for the spindle pin puller. If on the otherhand you're planning on replacing the outer link bushings, you will almost certainly need the puller.

$1000 bucks for a lawn ornament is not bad. It's nice when everyone goes away happy.

That is one amazing looking engine. Interestingly, it has nearly all the same parts I have on my wish list, but will probably never have. Are you building that for me? If not, le tme know when you're ready to sell.

That's awsome. I love the pic. He looks pretty damn happy. He looks a little like that talking baby in the eTrade (i think) commercials.

I'd say welcome to the site but it sounds like you've been lurking already for some time now. I'm glad you finally decided to post. As some have said, jsut about anything is repairable if the desire is strong enough. The decision to move forward with a rust bucket is not an easy one. Before you start dumping money in other areas of the car, you should do a thorough assessment of the condition of the body and determine whether you have the skills and determination to do the necessary repairs yourself, or if you can offord to pay someone else to do it. Secretly, I wish my car had some rust or body damage so I'd have an excuse to buy a mig welder and learn how to do sheet metal and body repair. I guess I'll just have to find somehting else to weld on........honey, where'd the kids hide their bikes?

Oh snap! Sheet mon...dat honkey tweaker sweeper need to go for shizzle you know? Aint no sense in lettin' dat big ol' tang ruin da greel mon. Time to break dat biatch off an let her smeel show to da wurl mon. Are ya diggin me rap yo? Sorry........I couldn't resist a chance to practice my jive. Seriously though, welcome to the site.

I bought a reman with an E-12-80 module on eBay for $75 and thought I got a good deal until I installed it a month later and noticed the thing was visibly wobbeling while running. Looks like I got one with a bent shaft. I'll be going to the local parts store to replace it so I can easily return it if something is wrong.

There's no need to completely remove the strut assy from the car. You can just unbolt them from the body by removing the three strut assy mounting bolts, swing them out, attach the spring compressor, compress the spring, then remove the single strut insert mounting bolt to disassemble the strut assy. Depending on how long the strut insert has been in there, the "fun" part might be getting the strut insert out of the strut tubes. Mine required some "persuasion".

As far as I know there is nobody selling either partial or complete bolt kist in anything other then SS. What you'll want to look for if going for a stock look is metric fasteners in the J.I.S standard which have smaller heads than the SAE ot DIN standard. The biggest challenge will be finding them in yellow chromate color. That said, you could always find the bolts you want, use a 50/50 mix of muriatic acid and distilled water to remove the plating, and then have them replated in the finish you want. Note: I found a post which suggested that acid stripping hardened bolts can cause "hydrogen embrittlement", but I cannot speak to this one way or the other. This is the process I used so hopefully this will not be an issue for me at some inopportune moment. My suggestion, and what I did was carefully monitor the stripping and don't leave the fasteners in any longer than you have to.

Holy crap that is one of the funniest donut sessions I have ever seen. LOLLOLLOLLOLLOL

Here's a shot of my console and the CHOKE label. The build date of the car is 4/73.

I'm not near my Z at the moment to check this, but I had another car (Honda I think) in the past that had the same feature which could be bypased by holding up the door handle. This allowd you to push down the lock while the door was open, and you could then close the door and it would remain locked. This may not help you with the electric locking mechanism, but I thought I'd throw this out there anyway.

Wow Dave, those carbs are looking awsome! Did you use anything to seal the polished aluminum to inhibit corrosion and extend the time between polishes? Same for the steel. I know there's a good product out there for the aluminum but I just can't recall the name of it at the moment.

Based on his description, I think he has a different shock than you and no numbered knob for adjustment, but the suggestion to go to Koni is a good one. I just did that myself and found the directions that appears to be for LowCarbZ's version under the FAQs. Seems simple enough to do as long as the shocks are off the car. The trouble is knowing what to start with and having to make adjustments later.

Thanks Jeff. It goes with the subtle gold pin stripes the PO put on the front and rear of the car back in the day. I plan on preserving the look if I ever re-paint this thing, but for now, I like the patina look of the original but still glistening Metallic Brown #114 paint.

I think the southern shore of Oahu would be less of a problem than the north, but in any event, I think you would have to dip your whole car in POR 15 to avoid rust at some point. Certainly after 15+ years or more. In the many times I've been there, I've not seen many older cars, and the ones I did see were rotting in someone's side yard.

And it's purty too! Here's a shot with 15" Konig rewinds.

Floorboards, frame rails (in engine compartment, behind front wheels, and under floorboards), hatch sill, doglegs, rocker panels, battery tray (from inside engine compartment and wheel well), radiator support (upper and lower).