=Enigma=

That only covers the rear mounting point and not the front. You'll need a front mount designed for the short nose diff as well. Did you check out the link I provided, or are you stuck on the bling of the billet?

As you said, no need to nit pick the car. It appears to be in decent shape with a nice paint job, and would make a good driver that garners a lot of attention. There's really not enough pics in the ad to tell whether it's actually worth the asking price, but based on what we can see I'd have to guess it's probably not.

It's called the Vacuum Control Assembly. Part numbers: 22301-E4601 - L24 up to 8/71 22301-E4603 - L24, manual up 9/71 thru 7/73 22301-E8000 - L24, automatic 8/70 thru 7/73

Do we know whos car this is? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1091106676.html

Try here. I think Ross just came out with mounting kits for these diffs. He can also supply custom flanges, hubs and stubs to use the 280zxt or Z32 CVs with these. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/ Oh yeah, try the search feature next time........

Nice job on the car Michael. It look absolutely great. If you wanna sit around and cry over the car that's fine, as long as they're teas of joy.

Welcome to the board Kyle. It's always nice to see another Norcal local.

Nope, not me, but I am on there. I put my pin in a parking spot near the ocean where I like to park and read.

I loved the time I spent in Texas, as well as the people, and I have to say that this sort of attitude was rare. United we stand, divided we fall. That's all I'm going to say on this topic. :tapemouth

Thanks for all the words of encouragement guys. MRI results are back and the news is actually not that bad. There are no herniated discs, however two are buldging. One minor L5/S1 and one major L1/L2. Fortunately the major bulge at L1/L2 is on the opposite side of the vertebrae than the spinal colum so there is minimal nerve involvement. Looking at the condition of L2 it's obvious this has been an issue for 10-15 years. This explains why this area has bothered me for the last 10 years or so, however it's never been much more than a mild to moderate annoyance from time to time. The L5/C1 injury is something new. I have never had low back pain. I believe when I injured this area recently, it set up a situation (muscle spasms an general tightness) that involved L1/L2 and caused this joint to "slip" and further injure the disc at this location. That was the sharp pain I felt the other day at the sink that sent me to the floor. Anyway, the outlook is pretty good but it's going to take time, so no more major wrenching for a while, and none for 6-8 weeks or however long it takes to get back to some place close to where I was before. I've never even heard of these drugs, but I'm not much for drugs so that's no surprise. Anyone here in the US heard of these? Your healthcare system is seriously amazing. I have pretty good coverage through work but but it costs me a few hundred a month, and I still have to pay a $25 copay for each appt and pay for lab/xray/diagnostic until I meet my deductible, and then they cover 90%. Sadly, there is nobody coming over to do my laundry and wash my arse for me. Do tall people generally suffer from back pain more than short people? Aside from the cumulative trauma injuries I sustained after years of working as a bellman/valet, I really haven't had much of a problem. Lucky until now I guess. Yeah, I'll be taking it easy for a while and I'm taking a week off to do some healing. Sitting in front of my computer all day working is not what I need right now. Work is forcing us to take 5 days of PTO off before the end of June so I'm taking it now. Dood that's just rough. Sounds like you're luck to still be around. Dave, you should really get that kind of stuff checked out if it doesn't go away in a couple days. That's what happened to L1/L2 for me. Ignored an injury and ended up with a deteriorated vertebrae that paid me back with this fun..... I don't know what an osteopath does specifically, but I'll look it up. There are definitely a lot of quack chiropractors out there, but there are some good ones as well, albeit hard to find. I'm luck to have a good one. Even with the bulging discs, he has me back on my feet and relatively painfree after 3 visits without any major "adjustments". Jusy some simple cold, heat, massage, minor spinal manipulation, electro muscle stim, and traction. He was the one who suggested the xrays after the first visit based on the degree of pain, and when those didn't show anything dramatic, and came back a secomd time after the episode at the sink, he ordered the MRI. Not your typical "I can fix anything with scented oils, soothing music and homeopathic remedies" sort of chiro. Thanks for the kind words Rick. You Aussies are definitely an interesting sort. I've met these sorts as well. Sorry to hear of your experience. My Chiro has helped me greatly over the years with minor to moderate aches and pains.

The unknown and the price.

I'm totally bummed out right now. I've been operating for the last few weeks under the assumption that I pulled a muscle in my back while pulling parts at the JY, and I've been taking it easy to let it heal up so I could finish up my car and drive it to the West Coast Z Car Nationals. This Saturday I felt a sharp pain in my back which sent me to the floor. I was stuck there and couldn't get up or move for nearly 2 hours. Sadly I learned today that I probably have a bulging disk. I go in for an MRI on Wednesday.......

Seem to me like there there's been a significant increase in the number of new posters/members in the last week or two. Could this be due to more Zs changing hands as a result of the current economic conditions? Just thinking out loud.

There a little removable rubber flap in the front fender that might allow you access. Perhaps someone who's had the fenders off can verify whether this is a possibility?

I might be overstepping my bounds here, but perhaps this kit is best left for someone looking to restore an actual Black Pearl Z. If I were simply looking to create a look-alike, I would actually prefer to paint the stripes on, but that's just my opinion.

I don't see any reason why you couldn't do this as long as you support the the rear transverse link member until you re-mount the transverse link mounting brackets.

That an awfully purty engine compartment there Arne. Nice job. Have any more pics of hte resto job on your B?

Yes there are, and many of them use Google and other spiders to locate and catalog information about possible targets. Just be choosey regarding what info you share and where. For instance, I don't share my full name or address on sites where I'm sharing info about valuable stuff I own, like my Z for example. Also, I don't really live in Santa Cruz, CA.

Bummer man, I feel for you. It looks like someone already welded in some replacement metal in battery box area all the way down to the frame rail. Note that there are full frame rails available for these car that include the box that's all rusted out on yours http://www.baddogparts.com/

Safety should always be a primary concern when working underneath the car. Never rely on a jack alone. If I plan on getting under there, I always put the car up on 4 jack stands, never just two. You could always substitute a pair of quality ramps for 2 of he stands. What I've found is that with a strong and stable set of 4 leg stands combined with intelligent stand placement on the car and a hard surface like cement, it's near impossible to knock the car off the stands. Remember that you have 2000+ lbs pushing down on the stands so moving the car is not easy. Stabiliy should always be tested to some degree before getting under the car. While I don't recommend trying to knock the car off the stands, I can actually put all of my weight (270lbs) and more into a full side push (lateral) on my car when raised, and the car will not budge. Swap out any of the aforementioned conditions and all bets are off. For example, using jack stands on dirt or warm asphalt, poor jack placement (rotation, location on car, etc), or using only two stands at a time. If you don't have nice cement floor to work on, I recommend building youself a set of support plates to place under your stands. Prior to having a stable cement garage floor, I made a set of 4 - 12" x 12" plates out of high quality 3/4" plywood. You could also weld a flat plate on the bottom of your stands for a more permanent solution, however seperate plates are nice because you can make them as wide as you want/need without making the stands bulkier. A word of caution on cinder blocks, these are not an appropriate substitute for proper blocking. I have seen these things crumble under the weight of a car, especialy when oriented wrongly, or when something other than a level/flat surface was resting on them. I would use them only as a last resort in conjunction with something like a couple 4x4s to disperse the weight across the entire surface of the block. I would be very uncomfortable under a car supported in any way by cinder blocks.

Here's those pics. PM me if you're interested. Go here for close-ups: http://www.flickr.com/photos/techn0freq/sets/72157615748106806/

The hammering method didn't work on mine even though the locking wedge came out without any problems and the pins were in excellent condition. The puller made child's play out of the job and the pins cam out like butta. If I hadn't ruined the threads on one end with the hammering method, I would have been able to re-use the pins. Note that the puller engages with much more of the thread than the nut does so it has a better hold of the pin. Also, pulling the pin out would in theory stretch the pin, making it thinner over all, whereas using a press would expand the pin making removal more difficult. When I installed the new pins and freshly re-plated locking wedges, I coated them with anti-seize to make sure that they would be easy to get out in the future.

I know how you feel on that one. I don't even want to know.

I have one. Try the search feature and use words like "5speed" and "swap". This topic has been covered ad nauseum.

My bad. Sorry John. I think you had your decimal point in the right place after all, assuming that we're talking millimeters and not fractions of an inch. I'm going to shut up now and go read about nitrous injection systems. Not because I'm interested, but because my curiosity has been piqued and I feel stupid now.