=Enigma=

No wonder you have so few posts on the board. Who would have time for such trivial things as the Internet and forums with all those toys. Nice collection. Thanks for sharing. I'd love to see some high res video or pics some time.

That is ridiculously cool. I'm amazed at both the price and size of the scanner, and incredibly amazed that the "printer" can out complex moving parts like that working steam engine replica and what appeared to be a pre-assembled diff.

Hey John, welcome to the site. So.....you have a head from a 72 240Z, and you're looking to trade that for some interior parts? Is that right? First question is, what's type of head is it really. It may not be the original one. There's a number stamped on the right side between the #1 & #2 spark plugs. And what's the number stamped on the intake? What year is the car that you're looking for parts for? Note that providing this info may get you a few more hits. Finally, I believe you can use a blower motor from a Honda Civic. Use the search feature on the site to get the answers you need. Most of them have been covered at some point or another. If you still can't find the answer, post for help. Cheers,

Hey there and welcome to the forum. That's a nice looking Z you have there. By the sounds of it I'm guessing you've already done quite a bit of research on the site. I don't have any B.C. recommendations for you but I'm sure someone will pipe in. We've got quite a few members in the PNW.

Frrame sliders........ I think you should just leave em on and drop that thing on top of an old 4x4 Ranger frame since you're a Ford fan. At least when it's Found On Road Dead it won't be a surprise. :devious: . .

Welcome to the CZC and congrats on your find. You definitely came to the right place. Lots of good info here. Feel free to ask questions if you need help, but be sure to use the search feature first since just about everything has been covered at least one already. Now let's see some pics!

Funny, they linked all of the mini pics on their site to the same JPG. I was able to get to them the same way you were presumably. Here's some direct links. The carb linkage, emission devices, fuel rail, repair light, oil pressure sensor, coolant junction tube, hood latch and crank pulley are definitely painted gold. Look at the MC caps for a comparison and note the painted over screws on one of the emission devices(don't know the name). The valve cover is painted as well and it looks like they may have painted it in place. Check the valve cover screws and the engine hoist bracket. It also appears that the fenders were mounted when painted. I assume this is not standard practive for full restoration. The interior looks great with new seat covers and new carpets, but I can't tell if that's a full dash cap or the original. It definitely didn't discolor at the same rate as the glovbox if it is. Are those paint chips on the edge of the hood, paint runs or a little of both? I'd love to see pics of the undercarriage. This is looking more and more like a dress up job to me, making it even more difficult to gauge a proper price. I bet we see this posted again at lower price in a few months unless someone gets suckered..... http://www.checkeredflagclassics.com/uploads/71_1.JPG http://www.checkeredflagclassics.com/uploads/71_2.JPG http://www.checkeredflagclassics.com/uploads/71_3.JPG http://www.checkeredflagclassics.com/uploads/71_4.JPG

That's great to hear. Hopefully the insurance company will be willing to pay for a quality job and not hobble the efforts of the body shop in doing the job right. At least you are working with someone who appreciates the Z. I feel for you man. I'm not sure what I would do to someone who rear ended me due to their own negligence. Tailgaters regularly bring me ot the brink of sanity. :mad:

All in all, it looks to be pretty clean and might be worth 10-12k for someone who didn't want to do a refresh themselves, but it's still a fairly nice example of the 1st gen Datsun Z car. Honestly, I hope he get's close to what he's asking for as it only helps drive up the resale value of our own cars. Unfortauntely, it can also drive up the cost of the parts....

Has anyone gotten the Nissan EFAST or E-Fast software working on Vista. I got it installed/configured and can open the E-FAST program, but I can't seem to do any lookups. When I click the Model List button at the bottom, I see an SQL Manager icon flashing on and off in the systray, but the lookup fails and E-Fast displays the folllowing error: "CD Player Error". See attached for image of this error. Note that I ran the installer successsfully and installed to C:\NISSAN, created the Fast and E-Fast subdirectories under there, copied the nfastkey to c:\windows, and ran nfset.exe to point the program to the two database dirs (c:\nissan\fast & c:\nissan\e-fast). I have this working fine on WinXP so I know how to install it, but something's just not right on Vista. A search of the web gave me nothing to work with. Any suggestions?

After all the recommendations above and you still left it at the place the insurance company recommended? Man I hope this turns out well and you don't end up with 100 lbs of bondo on your rear end. Looking right and being right are two entirely differnet things. Just look at Brittany Spears.

I'm about 5' short of a 14' ceiling in my garage....:disappoin No lift for me...

Here's a couple references on the Zap and Black Pearl editions from the Buyer's Guide at Zhome, as well as a link to IZCC Reference Pics. . .

I'm betting it's 72 mfg in late 71 and the seller is just going by the date on the door plate. I wish there were more pictures, but I have to say that if it is a 72, that price is a little steep, frame off resto or not. Which brings up an interesting question.....how do you do a "frame off resto" on a unibody car anyway...... Oh wait, it says "frame on resto".....Sorry, I couldn't resist. Perhaps someone on the East coast would be willing to pay this amount for a clean rust free (if it is in fact rust free) California car. I agree with you Arne, that "cad" looks too much like gold paint. We've seen that a few times recently but without quality pics it's too hard to tell.

Looking great man. Is that a lift I see in your garage?

I figured someone would say that. It's awfully pretty. Unfortunately it still has holes for mounting the rubber strips which I wish had been filled in. Perhaps a few chrome buttons would fix it up. Anyone have a source for these?

I had the same issue and it went away when I replaced the plug wires and coil. I did them at the same time so I can't which was the culprit in my case, and I know you already replaced the wires. Could it be a bad coil? have you tried swapping that out?

Anyone know who belongs to this Z? Kinda hard to tell what condition it's in with the few pics that were provided. The engine compartments look pretty clean anyway. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/ctd/1051720835.html Apparently someone doesn't know what the 71 hubcaps looked like. Quote: "original hub caps", "All original, no modifications true stock". I don't think so........ .

I believe the ends of the 73 bumper will make contact with the body if you try to mount it with the earlier brackets. My fillers are kind of mushed, hardened and in need of replacement as well. I'm undecided on switching to the earlier bumper because I'm trying to keep the original look of the 73 profile and not follow the pack. That decision is made harder every time see the freshly triple chromed early bumper sitting in the garage.

Wow, thanks for the heads-up Carl. I guess I shouldn't be so trusting that a particular source is accurate. When I see that much information and level of detail, it's easy to assume that someone knows what they are talking about. One item of note; the first link you provided makes no mention of more than one E88 design and references only the later E88 w/44.7 cc combustion chamber. It also references an N33 head with a mfg date of 8/72 - 7/73. What the hell is that? I thought the N33 number was only used for an intake manifold! Is this accurate? My Z is a one owner 4/73 with an E88 head, and according to the PO the only thing done to the engine was a swap out of the flat tops. Now I'm really confused.......but that's part of what makes these cars so fun.

Dunno about the mounting points, but in the 73 they moved the cigarette lighter from the console to the dash above the emergency flasher switch, and changed the emergency switch from a toggle style to a push/pull style switch, so you be giving up the lighter. Not a big deal really. I'm sure someone has been through this so you should find answer by searching the forums. That said, I recommend trying to find the proper dash or use a dash cap if this is all about trying to deal with a cracked dash. There's also a thread on fixing a cracked dash in here somewhere.

Well the head cound be either an E31 or an E88. The E31 is more valuable and offers higher compression. It came on and came on early 69/70 240Zs. The E88 supposedly came in two flavors. I thinkthe one on the 260z had a largeer exhaust valve but I haven't been able to confirm that myself. Here's a good read on the different heads. http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/

Good one Stephen!

With your goals stated, and both cars in roughly the same condition, I would probably go for the 260z and save the extra $2000 for the engine swap. If you like the smaller bumpers of the 240z, you can always swap some in later, and there are after market options for these as well in fiberglass and carbon fiber if you're going the mod route. A couple things you didn't share which could make a difference are other modifications already made to each car such as transmissions, differenentials, wheels, brakes, carbs, FI conversion etc.

Asuming dished pistons, a Nissan or 1mm gasket, no shaving of the head or reshaping of the combustion chamber, this combo would put you somewhere between 7.31 to 7.46 compression. That's pretty low and not a great combo IMHO. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/calcs/engine%20builder/