=Enigma=

Thanks for the great info John. I've been meaning to do some research on this myself to replace the 6 gal 1.5hp unit I have. About all that's good for is filling tires, blowing out clogged lines, drying cleaned parts, and freaking out the neighbor's cat when she's taking a dump in my garden.

That definitely is a tough choice and I'm not sure which I'd go with given the current status of the 280Z. On one hand you have a car that you can jump right into and get some instant gratification, and on the other a pile of work to be done and a list of WIATs waiting for time and cash. On the upside, you'll have plenty of cash after the sale. Good luck with your project.

I should probably add that there may be other reasons for the change in part numbers and the only way to be sure is to take some measurements.

I belive Arne is correct, and the part numbers seem to bear that out. Assy Strut RH 55302-E4126 - up to 7/73 55302-N3425 - 8/74 - 8/74 55302-N3725 - 9/74 to 2/76 55302-N4625 - from 3/76

Sorry for the confusion in terminology. I'm guessing that it's actually zinc plated with a yellow chromate finish since cadmium based plating is rarely used anymore. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

I want to plate some CAD plated parts and was wonrdering if I should use self etching primer on them or not. Knowing that cad/zinc plating is sensitive to acids, is this a wise choice, or is it better to just paint directly over the cad plating? The parts I am looking to paint are some MM disk brake adapters. They are cad plated cast parts and are pretty rough so there is plenty for the paint to stick to but....or should I just use a non etching primer to be safe?

Very nice pics David. Photoshop can be really fun if you know how to use it.

Looks they did a great job there Randy. I hope you didn;t spend all your retirement or college funds on that.

Flow looks fine to me. Not sure what that statement is based on. I'd definitely use this header. Maybe not for the price it sold at since it would need some cleaning up, ceramic coating, and a custom Y-pipe fabricatted, but it's a workable novelty and certainly period correct in my mind. Love the plaque.

We haven't seen 93 octane here in CA for many years. That's the highest I remember seeing since I started buying gasoline 24 years ago. Not sure I'd want to may for that at this point anyway. Regular unleaded (87 octane) was up at $3.45/gal at my last fill-up. That was the second time it cost me more than $50 to fill up the 15.9 gal tank in my 4runner. Maybe it's time to sell the beast.

I'm guessing that's te male side of a plug for a block heater used during winter months to keep the water in the block from freezing and cracking the block.

Unfortunately the history data on that site is not entirely accurate, at least not for the US. Point in case (pardon the pun) the 240Z did not recieve a transistorized breakerless ignition. This did not happen until the release of the 260Z in 74 as far as I am aware. Mine certainly didn't come with it.

So did you check under the hood before paying up and driving home or not? You've got some conflicting statements here and I'm starting to wonder if this story is on the up and up.

Somehow I doubt this is the case. All the L6 blocks are the same. Just because the steering wheel is on a different side doesn't mean everything is. I know for a fact that the intake and exhaust are on the same side, so why would the marking on the block be any different?

That sounds more like the price for calipers for a 2wd 4 cylinder equipped pickup.

I have no idea what the stray wire is for but I belive the metal cylinder is used to suppress electrical noise generated by the charging and discharging of the coil which can result in unwanted static or noise when listening to the radio.

Wouldn't the diff sping the wrong direction or at the very least wouldn't the gears make contact on the wrong side of the teeth? I would assume that you would at the very least have to switch out the ring and pinion gears, is that wrong?

I believe so. After looking at the two parts I have, one is a solid steel slug, and the other is two plates welded together. They're both the same size and relative weight (2.5-3.0 lbs) as far as I can tell. The solid one is the original part from my original 73, and the other came off a 73 in a JY that somone had done an R200 swap on, which included a 280Z diff member so I can't say for sure what year the latter came from, or if it was fabricated.

Nothing a little bit more fiberglass and bondo wouldn't cure? jk

Wow, deep thought there. Guess we needed two threads in the same forum to cover this topic.....

Easy there matey, them are my parts you be eye ballin' thar.... aaarrrgggg!. jk

LMFAO!!!! You're killing me Stephen!

Funny, not entirely accurate, but funny. They certainly help make the whole aging carb thing a lot less painless to deal with. Definitely recommended. Be sure to get their video, whether or not you decide to get them completely rebuilt.

What the hell? Are you running without an air cleaner or something? How did that stuff get in there in there first place? That's what I'd be asking myself as well as the panel beaters.

Unless you can find one locally in a junk yard or can live without it, you're better off cutting up some 1/4 plate and stacking it to the height/weight you want. I actually have a spare one and would be happy to part with it, but it's approx 3 lbs. US of solid steel. I'm unsure what it would cost to ship to you from here. Here's a pic. I'll take measurements tomorrow in case you want to mfg your own.