=Enigma=

Very nice. It looks like you got a good deal. Hard to say for sure without pics of the frame rails, T/C box, and battery tray area, but it looks to be in great condition. Same color inside and out as mine which has a build date of 4/73. I'm also curious how close our VINs are. Mine is listed in my signature.

Holy helping of Heap-O-The-Week Batman! I love the touch up on the passenger door pull.

Wow Kats! The S20 sounds as great as it looks, very healthy. I also looked at the US road test vids for the first time and enjoyed them almost as much as it looked like the guys enjoyed testing them. Thanks for sharing.

I don't see any pics in your gallery but it's possible that they haven't been approved yet.

Funny guy.... :devious:

Roger that Roger. Thanks for making the distinction I failed to consider.

Sorry to hear that you have to let her go Albert. Get school out of the way. There will be another waiting for you somewhere when you get finished. Good luck to you.

Ok, I'm done with the POR on the floor panels. This stuff goes on way thin and self levels very well, even when upside down. I'm a bit worried that it's too thin but I'm not sure how I would have laid it on any thicker. Is a second coat feasible or even recommended? Also, I totally overestimated how much it would take to cover this area. I ladeled out 9oz and only used like 3.5oz so the rest was wasted. Anyway, it turned out great. Here are some pics just after I finished cleaning up. I have a few black dots on my face...I guess they're gonna be there a while.....

I like your reasoning. This post is worthless without the pics......

This is too common to be of much use. The more seasoned thieves will figure that one out, but it's better than nothing unless as you pointed out, your battery is low.

The best kind of head, that would be the kind you get from your girlfriend for free. jk Do a search for a utility called lengine to do the math for you. Very handy. Or go here. I can;t speak to the valve clearance, but the N42 would put your compression just a tad higher than an E88, and a few points lower than an E31. You can also go here for more info: http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

Same story here. Feels good huh? Talk nice to her or she'll break down and sap your wallet. She knows when you bad mouth her so be nice. Welcome to the board and the club. Let us know if we can be of help in any way.

These are much better than the steering wheel based clubs which can easily be defeated by cutting through the steering wheel in 30sec or less. They would have to cut through the brake arm to get it off or remove the arm which adds significantly to the time and effort it takes to defeat it. http://www.overstock.com/?page=proframe&prod_id=2108498 http://www.securityworld.com/ShopSite/brakelock.html

The wheel studs are M12 x 1.25 but I don't know the length. Oh my, I'm shocked. You environmentally insensitive pig you...

I think I might be able to straighten it by opening the floor like you did, supporting the frame rail on a jack stand with a piece of flat steel between the rail and the jack stand, and then beating the fracking wizz out of it from above. However, the damage to my rails is so far forward that I'm afraid I might damage the dash while trying to swing the hammer with enough force to do any good. Perhaps I should just live with it........ If I do, and you guys ever see it in person and say "Nice car, what happened to you frame rail?", I just might blow a gasket.

Ross, where are you? I need some of your magic! I've been waiting patiently for 11 days now...........Anyone have his phone number?

Wow, it looks like the whole rail is bent up, not just bent in. Did pounding it tear any of the spot welds loose? I'm still considering giving it a go before I lay down the POR sometime this week.

Does anyone have a good source for McGard lug nut kits? I've had a set on order for 4 weeks with Summit now and they keep moving the ship date out. I'm hoping to find someone who has the 65454GD in stock. This is the Gold spline drive kit with locks. I'm willing to pay a bit more than Summit's $77.95 to get them in my hands at this point. Here's a pic of what I'm after: . .

I think it was just pulled out of that lake in the background... The scariest part is that it looks like the guy actually drives it!!!:stupid:

Thanks for the words of advice guys. I decided to go forward with the POR for now. My main worry was that this was more than cosmetic. There are no cracks and absolutely no rust anywhere that I can find. Woohoo! In fact, under the tar undercoating, there was a pretty stubborn layer of primer that had to be stripped off as well. Here's a tip for the rest of you, don't attempt to refinish the bottom of your car unless you have your car on a rotisserie. I spent the last two days on my back stripping the undercoating and finish off with tar chips, paint, dust, sparks and wire wheel bristles ricocheting off my face and this was only the floor pans. Unfortunately, I have to do this in sections because of the difficulty doing this from underneath. My arms and shoulders are so damn sore. I think I have a total of 15hrs into it at this point and it's ready for the coat of POR-15. Next comes the rear section, then the wheel wells, and lastly the front frame rails........ Happy Easter! :bunny:

Wow! I really like that first bunny. Happy Easter at ya Mike!

The car is disassembled at the moment but the alignment was fine prior to disassembly in looking at the tires that were on there for 20K miles or so when I purchased the car . This is old damage, not new. If I choose to make the repair, the car could be sitting as it is for a few weeks. If that's the route I choose to go, would coating it with some WD-40 or some grease hold me until then?

Guys, sorry for the rush here but I need a quick answer on how to proceed from someone experienced in this area. I just got done stripping the tar based undercoating from the floor pans and was planning on simply applying some POR-15, but now I'm not sure whether to go ahead with that as planned ignoring the damage, or attempt to repair the damaged/dented frame rails first since POR is kind of a permanent thing. The damage can be seen in the pics below. It looks like it was probably done by either or both the PO and mechanics putting the car on a lift, as well as a possible road hazard on the driver's side(caved in floor pan when I got it). The dilemma is that I need to address this as quickly as possible since I'm down to bare metal. The car is stored outside in a car port, and I live 3 blocks from the ocean, so ocean fog and moisture is a concern. The good news is that I have yet to find a spec of rust, and I'd like to keep it that way. So a few questions: Do I need to worry about this from a structural standpoint, or is it mainly cosmetic and I can proceed as planned and just POR over it? All I plan on using the car for besides regular on road usage is aggressive mountain driving and an occasional autocross or track day event. I don't plan on ever having a motor with more than 200-250HP What would be the easiest way to address this if that is the recommended route? I have pondered the following in order of extremity: A) POR over it now, and strip it off later to fix if I change plans on HP or intended use, assuming it's not a structural threat at the moment. Is this even feasible? This stuff sounds permanent and hard to strip. Drill some holes from the top and use a punch to straighten it out. possibly using some heat. I have some concerns about breaking loose spot welds if I do this. C) Have a sheet metal guy bend me a piece that I can weld over the top that extends forward tying it into the T/C box. Note: I'm not a welder myself, but I can learn.......not sure if this is the best project to learn on.... d) Obtain replacement frame rails and replace the whole damn thing, and tie it into the rear subframe while I'm at it.....Probably extreme overkill.... I should have just left the damn undercoating on and found something better to do while waiting for parts to come in............Hindsight is 20-20. Adam

Just curious, but why would you use a ballast resistor with an breaker-less ignition? Is this something that Mallory recommends with their breaker-less dizzy, if so why? Or are you not using an breaker-less dizzy?

Hence the word "most" in the very same sentence. you're. referring. to........