=Enigma=

I disagree, at least in part. I have often thought about this when seeing threads of this nature. If the poster actually describes everything in intimate detail with pictures, procedures, and all the gory details of how to bypass it, then this might be something of a worry. But that would just be plain dumb if you also provided your name, general area, VIN, license number, etc., or that info could be extrapolated from various threads on the site. I for example don't live exactly where my location says, have never used my last name, provided my home phone number, or any other easily identifiable information (aside from my VIN) making the task of trying to find me a bit harder, but certainly not impossible. One thing you need to remember is that most thieves will always take the path of least resistance. A car with multiple systems/devices that work together will help keep the car safe in the face of most threats. Multiple systems provides the thief with more hurdles to overcome. This means more exposure, more risk and increases the likelihood that the thief will be unsuccessful, identified, caught, or my favorite... shot by the owner. In most cases, when faced with hurdles, thieves will just move on to the next car. Bottom line is that if someone really wants you car, it's going to get stolen. If there's a will, there's a way. This is why we should all have comprehensive insurance covering a stated value that we agree with.

Hard to tell from the pic but I'd be more then a little worried if this is what and where I think it is. See pic and red arrow below.

Dunno, but you could always just remove remove the mechanical pump. The electric should be able to handle the load by itself. An easy test would be to bypass the mechanical pump temporarily. Perhaps someone can answer if it's ok to run the mechanical pump dry for a short period of time. I plan on installing an alarm with an ignition cut-off as well as a manual fuel pump cut-off switch once I get the car back on the road. If the stock electric pump can't hack it I plan on replacing it with a newer Holley Red pump.

Someone PM'd me with a question as to where I obtained my "FS5C71A" tranny, and I realized that I had inadvertently used a "C" in place of the "W" in all references to the FS5W71 trannies in my possession. In addition to that, I mistakenly referred to the early (77-79) wide ratio FS5W71B that I have in the car now as FS5C71A. Originally I thought that this was the "A" version of the FS5W71 but I know now that I was misinformed. It must have been late when I originally typed this. I believe the FS5C71A was available in some of the 2000 Roadsters and the non-US spec 240Z. It is desirable due to the use of Porsche style steel syncros.

Wow Bruce! I'm not sure how i missed this thread the first time around. That is some impressive work. Nice job. At the moment, I have a nearly perfect un-cracked dash, but if mine does crack in the future, the plan is to have it covered in leather or a UV resistant faux leather. In any event, I look forward to hearing how yours holds up through the hell of high summer in AZ.

Nice job there. I can't wait to see the finished product. I'd like to do something similar when I mount my 6 into 2 Clifford header.

It would be very surprising to me if all this work was required just to change a headlight. I'm betting it can be done from inside the wheel well. It's possible that there is a plastic wheel well lining, I can't remember from my last trip to the JY, but if there is, remove it to get to the rear of the light.

Ron, that's a nice looking wheel. I don't know anything about it but it looks to be in pretty good shape. What does the signature on it say? It looks like you are missing the turn signal cancel prongs on the adapter though.

It took me a while to find one too.

Wow! And only took you 27 months. I picked up Momo MonteCarlo wheel in Zebrano wood on eBay a while back. It was NOS from 1986 and came in the original box with the warranty card. See pic below. I don't have a pic of it mounted yet but I love the way it looks.

Nice! I'm glad you had your wits about you when looking at this car. Sounds like the guy wasn't being completely honest. Take your time and the right car will find you.

Since your 73 has already been converted to the older SUs ( a good thing) like mine, you'll want to find an air cleaner from an earlier car like the one in the pics below. I believe it came from 72 and was added when the PO converted from the crappy flat top Hitachis to the round top SUs. You should be able to find one in a JY. If not, I'm sure someone on here has a spare they will be willing to part with. . .

Congrats! Looks like you're gonna need to source some choke cables to get that thing started. They appear to be missing. Definitely make sure the brakes are in order before you get too excited and take that thing out for a spin.

Yes, I've heard the same thing, however these seem to be in good shape and provided enough resistance when re-installing so I'm not too worried about it. I ordered replacements anyway and intend to replace them with the new ones once they have been re-plated and finished in yellow chromate.

Well I'm getting very close to re-assembly time after refinishing all of the suspension parts and fasteners. Just a few more items to aquire to complete the suspension refresh/brake upgrade. Long story short; after paying someone to bead blast all my suspension parts and doing a nice job painting everything very carefully with a rattle can ($300 blasting, $~100 paint & supplies), I decided I wanted to go ahead and have it all stripped and powder coated. To my surprise, I was able to get it all bead blasted and powder coated for roughly the same ($375) cost as the original finishing job. Woohoo! And boy does it look great! I should have gone this route in the first place. Live and learn. The part clean-up was a bit harder with the powder coating, but definitely worth it in the end. The list of 36 parts that were plated for $375 are listed below. Was the latter a good deal or not? Also, I'm just about finished zinc plating the original fasteners with the factory yellow chromate finish, although I like the finish just a bit darker than the factory finsh. I knocked off the rust and corrosion using a wire wheel, and then put them all into a bath of hydrochloric acid to take them down to bare steel. The next step was the plating which was a real learning process. After a couple weeks of experimentation and two different rectifiers, I was finally able to come up with a repeatable process and formula that got me the finish I was looking for. I used the Copy Cad kit from Caswell for the zinc plating and the Yellow Chromate formula for the color. This is a very time consuming process. Unless you are simply interested in trying this for yourself out of curiosity, I recommend taking everything to a professional plater. Probably cheaper if time is $$$$ to you. That said, I'm still glad I did it myself. Looking at the finished product and knowing I did it myself is very satisfying. Pics below. The last items (that I'm aware of) I need to complete the brake upgrade are the front and rear disc brake conversion adapters and cross drilled rotors, but getting these items is proving to be a bit of challenge due to a possible communication problem. Anyone have Ross's telephone number? . . 2 - Front Transverse links 2 - Steering knuckles 2 - Front Strut Assy 2 - T/C Rods 2 - Front Hubs 1 - Front Crossmember 4 - Front Crossmember - special washers (upper/lower) 2 - Steering rack mtg brackets 1 - Steering rack mtg u-bolt & bracket 1 - Front Sway Bar 2 - Front sway bar reinforcing plates 4 - Front/Rear upper spring seats 2 - Rear transverse links 2 - Rear Strut Assy 2 - Rear Transverse Link Braces 1 - Rear Transverse Link Member 2 - Rear Transverse Link Mtg Brackets 1 - Differential Mtg Member 1 - Rear Sway Bar --------- $300 - Blast and coat - Good deal or not? . .

Congrats and welcome to the forum! Let us see some pics as soon as you have em. Lots of good stuff on rust repair here. I'd get to that ASAP before it turns cancerous. If it starting to show externally, there's more on the inside. Do a search on "rust repair" and "por15" or "por-15". Works great at stopping rust as well as preventing it for those of use lucky enough not to have any.

The cleaning of the #4 piston and combustion chamber pretty much give away that this is a problem of coolant leaking into the combustion chamber, as well as the "white smoke" (steam) . arse-u-ming it's not as simple as head gasket leak, my guess is a cracked head that's leaking into the intake runner on #4. It's hard to tell just from the pics, but looking at the coolant passages, there doesn't seem to be enough corrosion present to suggest a coolant passage break-through in the intake runner, but it's probably worth checking out as that usually be spotted and fixed fairly easily, unlike a cracked head.

Welcome back. You lost some of the "classic" in the Clasisic Zcar but in the end, it's still a Z so all is well.

Unless it's a series 1 240Z (70-71), you're not very likely to make any money on it unless you buy it extremely cheap, invest a few dollars to get it running, and turn around and sell it. The same might also be true of the series 1 depending on what it takes to get it going and the condition it's in when you start. Even then it's a crap shoot unless you know your Z's very well and find a rippin' deal. I suggest you either get out of it now, or keep it any enjoy it.

Thanks Tomo. When I first bought the external magnet mount antenna, I snipped off the PL259 connector and soldered on a BNC connector so that I could use it with both my handheld CB radio as well as my Uniden Scanner. I actually haven't used the antenna since I mounted the Cobra 18 WX ST II in-dash with the head unit in the daily driver (4runner) and permanently mounted a 4' Firestick antenna to the bull bar. Tastes great, less filling! . . . .

The rear diffuser is way too angular for a car that has such a rounded backside. I understand that the design stems from extensive testing and that a more rounded design might not perform to the same level, but I still don't like it.

Nice but not $12,500 nice.

I know what a Prado is. It's somewhat similar to a Toyota 4runner or what the Japanese call a Surf. In fact, I'm running Prado springs in the rear of my lifted 4runner to carry the extra weight of camping gear when I go off-roading. The Prado too small? I think not. But a nice attempt at a covert dig on the American taste for bigger things, but not accurate for the most part.

I used to think sunroofs were a bad thing until I got one myself.......Now all my vehicles have them. No leaks in any of them....ever. I guess when you live where it's sunny and 65-75 degrees most of the year, you learn to appreciate them a bit more. ;P Besides, chicks dig em'!

That paints a very funny picture in my mind. I've been there minus the heat, and did the same thing with the tranny. It's a bit heavier though and probably a lot more fun to watch. I'm glad nobody saw me.