=Enigma=

Ok, I'm done with the POR on the floor panels. This stuff goes on way thin and self levels very well, even when upside down. I'm a bit worried that it's too thin but I'm not sure how I would have laid it on any thicker. Is a second coat feasible or even recommended? Also, I totally overestimated how much it would take to cover this area. I ladeled out 9oz and only used like 3.5oz so the rest was wasted. Anyway, it turned out great. Here are some pics just after I finished cleaning up. I have a few black dots on my face...I guess they're gonna be there a while.....

I like your reasoning. This post is worthless without the pics......

This is too common to be of much use. The more seasoned thieves will figure that one out, but it's better than nothing unless as you pointed out, your battery is low.

The best kind of head, that would be the kind you get from your girlfriend for free. jk Do a search for a utility called lengine to do the math for you. Very handy. Or go here. I can;t speak to the valve clearance, but the N42 would put your compression just a tad higher than an E88, and a few points lower than an E31. You can also go here for more info: http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

Same story here. Feels good huh? Talk nice to her or she'll break down and sap your wallet. She knows when you bad mouth her so be nice. Welcome to the board and the club. Let us know if we can be of help in any way.

These are much better than the steering wheel based clubs which can easily be defeated by cutting through the steering wheel in 30sec or less. They would have to cut through the brake arm to get it off or remove the arm which adds significantly to the time and effort it takes to defeat it. http://www.overstock.com/?page=proframe&prod_id=2108498 http://www.securityworld.com/ShopSite/brakelock.html

The wheel studs are M12 x 1.25 but I don't know the length. Oh my, I'm shocked. You environmentally insensitive pig you...

I think I might be able to straighten it by opening the floor like you did, supporting the frame rail on a jack stand with a piece of flat steel between the rail and the jack stand, and then beating the fracking wizz out of it from above. However, the damage to my rails is so far forward that I'm afraid I might damage the dash while trying to swing the hammer with enough force to do any good. Perhaps I should just live with it........ If I do, and you guys ever see it in person and say "Nice car, what happened to you frame rail?", I just might blow a gasket.

Ross, where are you? I need some of your magic! I've been waiting patiently for 11 days now...........Anyone have his phone number?

Wow, it looks like the whole rail is bent up, not just bent in. Did pounding it tear any of the spot welds loose? I'm still considering giving it a go before I lay down the POR sometime this week.

Does anyone have a good source for McGard lug nut kits? I've had a set on order for 4 weeks with Summit now and they keep moving the ship date out. I'm hoping to find someone who has the 65454GD in stock. This is the Gold spline drive kit with locks. I'm willing to pay a bit more than Summit's $77.95 to get them in my hands at this point. Here's a pic of what I'm after: . .

I think it was just pulled out of that lake in the background... The scariest part is that it looks like the guy actually drives it!!!:stupid:

Thanks for the words of advice guys. I decided to go forward with the POR for now. My main worry was that this was more than cosmetic. There are no cracks and absolutely no rust anywhere that I can find. Woohoo! In fact, under the tar undercoating, there was a pretty stubborn layer of primer that had to be stripped off as well. Here's a tip for the rest of you, don't attempt to refinish the bottom of your car unless you have your car on a rotisserie. I spent the last two days on my back stripping the undercoating and finish off with tar chips, paint, dust, sparks and wire wheel bristles ricocheting off my face and this was only the floor pans. Unfortunately, I have to do this in sections because of the difficulty doing this from underneath. My arms and shoulders are so damn sore. I think I have a total of 15hrs into it at this point and it's ready for the coat of POR-15. Next comes the rear section, then the wheel wells, and lastly the front frame rails........ Happy Easter! :bunny:

Wow! I really like that first bunny. Happy Easter at ya Mike!

The car is disassembled at the moment but the alignment was fine prior to disassembly in looking at the tires that were on there for 20K miles or so when I purchased the car . This is old damage, not new. If I choose to make the repair, the car could be sitting as it is for a few weeks. If that's the route I choose to go, would coating it with some WD-40 or some grease hold me until then?

Guys, sorry for the rush here but I need a quick answer on how to proceed from someone experienced in this area. I just got done stripping the tar based undercoating from the floor pans and was planning on simply applying some POR-15, but now I'm not sure whether to go ahead with that as planned ignoring the damage, or attempt to repair the damaged/dented frame rails first since POR is kind of a permanent thing. The damage can be seen in the pics below. It looks like it was probably done by either or both the PO and mechanics putting the car on a lift, as well as a possible road hazard on the driver's side(caved in floor pan when I got it). The dilemma is that I need to address this as quickly as possible since I'm down to bare metal. The car is stored outside in a car port, and I live 3 blocks from the ocean, so ocean fog and moisture is a concern. The good news is that I have yet to find a spec of rust, and I'd like to keep it that way. So a few questions: Do I need to worry about this from a structural standpoint, or is it mainly cosmetic and I can proceed as planned and just POR over it? All I plan on using the car for besides regular on road usage is aggressive mountain driving and an occasional autocross or track day event. I don't plan on ever having a motor with more than 200-250HP What would be the easiest way to address this if that is the recommended route? I have pondered the following in order of extremity: A) POR over it now, and strip it off later to fix if I change plans on HP or intended use, assuming it's not a structural threat at the moment. Is this even feasible? This stuff sounds permanent and hard to strip. Drill some holes from the top and use a punch to straighten it out. possibly using some heat. I have some concerns about breaking loose spot welds if I do this. C) Have a sheet metal guy bend me a piece that I can weld over the top that extends forward tying it into the T/C box. Note: I'm not a welder myself, but I can learn.......not sure if this is the best project to learn on.... d) Obtain replacement frame rails and replace the whole damn thing, and tie it into the rear subframe while I'm at it.....Probably extreme overkill.... I should have just left the damn undercoating on and found something better to do while waiting for parts to come in............Hindsight is 20-20. Adam

Just curious, but why would you use a ballast resistor with an breaker-less ignition? Is this something that Mallory recommends with their breaker-less dizzy, if so why? Or are you not using an breaker-less dizzy?

Hence the word "most" in the very same sentence. you're. referring. to........

I disagree, at least in part. I have often thought about this when seeing threads of this nature. If the poster actually describes everything in intimate detail with pictures, procedures, and all the gory details of how to bypass it, then this might be something of a worry. But that would just be plain dumb if you also provided your name, general area, VIN, license number, etc., or that info could be extrapolated from various threads on the site. I for example don't live exactly where my location says, have never used my last name, provided my home phone number, or any other easily identifiable information (aside from my VIN) making the task of trying to find me a bit harder, but certainly not impossible. One thing you need to remember is that most thieves will always take the path of least resistance. A car with multiple systems/devices that work together will help keep the car safe in the face of most threats. Multiple systems provides the thief with more hurdles to overcome. This means more exposure, more risk and increases the likelihood that the thief will be unsuccessful, identified, caught, or my favorite... shot by the owner. In most cases, when faced with hurdles, thieves will just move on to the next car. Bottom line is that if someone really wants you car, it's going to get stolen. If there's a will, there's a way. This is why we should all have comprehensive insurance covering a stated value that we agree with.

Hard to tell from the pic but I'd be more then a little worried if this is what and where I think it is. See pic and red arrow below.

Dunno, but you could always just remove remove the mechanical pump. The electric should be able to handle the load by itself. An easy test would be to bypass the mechanical pump temporarily. Perhaps someone can answer if it's ok to run the mechanical pump dry for a short period of time. I plan on installing an alarm with an ignition cut-off as well as a manual fuel pump cut-off switch once I get the car back on the road. If the stock electric pump can't hack it I plan on replacing it with a newer Holley Red pump.

Someone PM'd me with a question as to where I obtained my "FS5C71A" tranny, and I realized that I had inadvertently used a "C" in place of the "W" in all references to the FS5W71 trannies in my possession. In addition to that, I mistakenly referred to the early (77-79) wide ratio FS5W71B that I have in the car now as FS5C71A. Originally I thought that this was the "A" version of the FS5W71 but I know now that I was misinformed. It must have been late when I originally typed this. I believe the FS5C71A was available in some of the 2000 Roadsters and the non-US spec 240Z. It is desirable due to the use of Porsche style steel syncros.

Wow Bruce! I'm not sure how i missed this thread the first time around. That is some impressive work. Nice job. At the moment, I have a nearly perfect un-cracked dash, but if mine does crack in the future, the plan is to have it covered in leather or a UV resistant faux leather. In any event, I look forward to hearing how yours holds up through the hell of high summer in AZ.

Nice job there. I can't wait to see the finished product. I'd like to do something similar when I mount my 6 into 2 Clifford header.

It would be very surprising to me if all this work was required just to change a headlight. I'm betting it can be done from inside the wheel well. It's possible that there is a plastic wheel well lining, I can't remember from my last trip to the JY, but if there is, remove it to get to the rear of the light.