=Enigma=

It looks great. Doesn't get much nicer than that. And if it's a dash cap, someone did a real nice job installing it. I hope it's not.

Are we talking about the same part you can get for under $5 at a local parts store? Are you just looking for a picture for comparison?

Ok, I'll ask the question. What does itb stand for? Inline Throttle Body? If that's what you're interested in, you can buy a complete kit at Top End Performance here: http://www.racetep.com/ztripdcoe.html#twmtbod

Cars were designed to be driven, and unless there's only 1 or two left, it should be. How much is up to the owner. Period

The car sounds and looks great Mohamed. For a second I too thought you might have added a turbo, but as I listed closer, I recognized it as exhaust hiss. If it annoys you, you may be able to get rid of the hiss by changing the exhaust tip. Anyway, look like you were having fun. Thanks for sharing.

Why let such a great resource go un-leveraged. Is that even a word? Anyway, why not just link to the online resources directly from the DVD? I assume we're not going to be viewing this from our TVs......although that's certainly possible if you're a true geek and already have a Windows or Linux based media center already set up in your home theater room. Honestly, I'd have one of I had the time to set it up.

Congrats on finally getting is finished and back on the road. I'm sure it must feel great to finally be able to enjoy the car from behind the wheel. I love the triple SU setup. Very unique and visually appealing. How does it perform with them?

Interesting info. I'm a bit surprised at the conclusion and still trying to make sense of it, but the math appears to work.

A simple search of the gallery on this site found this: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?si=spindle+pin+puller or try this. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/SpindlePinTool.htm

Beautiful car. I'd take the TR6 over an MGB any day. Much more stylish IMHO.

Say what? Am I missing something here. Did you mean to say that the outer bushings can't be replaced without removing the spindle pin? You should be able to replace the shocks or "strut inserts" without removing the spindle pin by unbolting the strut assy from the tower, and swinging it down to finish the job. I'm pretty sure it will clear the wheel arch, but if not, you could always either unbolt the half-shaft from the outer flange on the early R180 diff equipped cars, or pop it out of the diff on the R200 to allow the strut assy to clear the wheel arch. I'd much rather do that than mess with the spindle pin.

I don't know what the definitive answer is here, but I would probably start by setting it so that the measurement between the center of the two strut shafts is exactly 913mm, as specified in the BF-3 Body Dimensions diagram.

You know, there seems to be more and more fellow Zcar website bashing going on lately, both here and on the other sites. Maybe it's always gone on and it's just my sensitivity level that's changed. Don't get me wrong, there's nothing like a little competition to keep things fresh and interesting, but I guess I'm just getting a little tired of hearing disparaging comments without any real substance. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, and welcome to voice it if so inclined just like I'm doing here. But in my opinion, each has something to offer, as well as pros and cons. I just don't see the need to badmouth them. Anyway, I'd love to hear your opinions on this.

Hey there and welcome to the forum. I'm sure you'll find the answer you need here somewhere. On thing that kills the fuel pumps is rust and debris in the fiel tank. Odds are that if this has been sitting a long time, that there's plenty of both in the tank. You may want to take care of that before it kills your new FP.

Are the stock SUs going to be enough to feed his 3000cc motor w/cam, or would he be better off getting a set of bored out SUs from Rebello? Just curious.

Marty, what is the logic behind of removing the pads? I see no reason to do this. Please explain.

Yep. I was counting on the fact that most people are looking for square port headers and would pass this one up, but I still expected to pay more. I was actually quite surprised when I saw the final bid. Sometimes it just works out that way. This will go perfect with my soon to be ported P79 head. I'm a very happy camper to say the least. I'll be even happier when it arrives at my doorstep.

Way to hijack a request there Fred. I believe Trisha has first dibs.

My guess is that it spent a lot of time parked at the beach. I call tell you first hand that even a well taken care of car with good paint will suffer badly if parked for hours on a regular basis at or near the beach. All you have to do is take a look and the surfers' and beach hermits' cars. Honestly, it makes me nervous to live as close to the ocean as I do without a garage for my Z. That's something I hope to take care of in the next 6 months or so. BTW, I'm pretty sure that's not a 1970 since is has the later style emblem/vent on the pillar.

Here's some pics of a Clifford Research header for round port heads that I just grabbed on eBay. It may have even been from someone here, dunno. Can't wait until it comes.....even though it will be a while before I do my engine swap and get to use it.

Doh!!!!!

Here's what it looks like on a stock bumper from a car mfg in 4/73.

This topic has been covered ad nauseam here. A simple search could find you more than you wanted to know, but you can get the same by going here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103767 or Here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104735 . . .

Stop it!!!! You're scaring us! . . .

Yep, I have some of this stuff for my R/C gliders. Works great for covering wings. I mainly use the silver for accents and trim, on the planes that is. I'm not sure how well it would do against the the summer sun in a closed car, but it should do ok. The plus side is that it's relatively cheap and comes in rolls like wrapping paper.