=Enigma=

Rice! Now that's just funny. Sounds like a honeymoon car.

I have a CB in my 4Runner that gets used regularly on off-roading trips with local clubs. We also use FRS radios mostly for in camp communications, but they don't have the range of the CB. Some use them on the trail when we're all lined up and moving through an area together. Personally, I have both going so I don;t miss any of the conversations. With regards to 40 channels providing more privacy, that's not an accurate statement. The CB radio consists of an open, broadcast based system that provide absolutely no privacy whatsoever. More channels simply increases the possibility that you will find a channel clear of chatter, and that's probably what you meant, but that's very different than "privacy". And while we're talking privacy, if you think your wireless handset attached to your telephone line at home, or your cell phone conversations are "private", think again. With a few simple mods, many publicly available frequency scanners can "listen in" on your conversations. Don't ask me how I know.

I believe that same car was up for sale some time ago, in fact, the same picture were used for the previous sale. If I'm not mistake, someone here on thje board was either considering it, or purchased it. Or.......you are the one actually selling this car and this post is a troll for possible buyers. Wouldn't be the first time. If not, welcome to the site and good luck in your search.

Don't let the haters spook you out of doing what you want. There are still plenty of Zs and plenty of replacement parts or alternatives to keep the Z alive for some time to come. In fact, I believe there are more Zs out there than popular american muscle cars and their popularity is only increasing. Based on that I expect that more vendors will enter the space as time goes on and start making parts to replace those that are that are NLA. Perhaps that just wishful thinking on my part, but not being a complete purist, I don't see that as much of a roadblock anyway. Don't get me wrong, I believe that chopping up the Z to the point of changing is character is sacrilege, and my opinion is that if you preserve the original character and styling, enhancing it only enough to make it more road worthy, add some performance and increase its longevity then you've done nothing wrong. Again, that is my opinion, Keep in mind that I bought a 73 rather than a 70 because I intended to make some changes and thought I'd leave the early cars for the true purists, even if that meant I didn't get the 240Z C pillar emblem that has always piqued my interest.

I'm loving the leather. This is the route I've thought about taking if or rather when my dash starts cracking. Does anyone know how much it would cost to have something like this done here in the states assuming standard materials and nothing fancy?

Unless you have a limited slip differential there are no slip plates, only spider, ring and pinion gears. Odds are that you pulled the diff side flange out a little when changing the strut inserts, and the splines on the shaft were not properly engaging with the side gear in the diff, and thus causing the sound you heard. This would also explain why you heard it when turning left. I imagine that the spider gears were probably rotating furiously while the side flange was disconnected from the right side, and these gears are the ones that wear the most in the diff. Hard to say of the shavings you found were due to this or just normal wear and tear over how ever many mile that R200 has seen over its lifetime. I can tell that look pretty bad in the R200 I have with over 300k miles in it. Sadly, there doesn't seem to be any replacements that I can find. Looks like an LSD is in my future since this will eliminate the spider gears.

Here's what I installed on my 4Runner. It won't meet your unique sound requirement and the range for remote notification is not that great but that could be my antenna placement. At any rate, the phone support I received during installation a couple years ago was great and they have custom wiring diagrams for most models available for download from a password protected site. I plan on installing one in the Z at some point as well. http://www.commandocaralarms.com/itemdetails.asp?ProductID=496

Armorall? Blasphemy I say! I'd rather slather my dash with ozone or Ozium than use that stuff on anything I care about. But enough on that topic, it's been beaten to death several times.

Isn't ozone harmful to vinyl? If so, I'm not sure I'd want to subject my dash or most of the interior to this treatment. Anyone know if this stuff poses the same risk as natural ozone or whether either is damaging to the interior?

Something doesn't look quite right with these. Namely, the 2, 4, & 8 in these new images look skinny compared to the 0 & Z, or perhaps the 0 & Z are too fat. What I'm talking about here is the width of the lines that make up the chars, not the overall width of the chars. Also, something looks off with the inner radiuses of the D (the inner void is too square) in DATSUN, as well as the inner/lower/left radius of the S in the DATSUN. Sorry to nit pick but I like the versions in post #106 better than these latest incarnations. Please take another look at these.

Awww man, what a bummer. I was just thinking about mine the other day considering how unusually cold it was here last week. Hopefully I don't have any surprises waiting in the garage for me. Looking at your crack (not plumber's) it doesn't look too bad. If it were me might try some putting some black show polish in it and forget about it. Can anyone think of a reason why shoe polish should not be used on a dash crack?

If desired, the changes that the PO made could be put back to the original style with some decent metal work. However this could be expensive depending on whether you can do it yourself or have to pay someone to do it. Doing so would probably increase the resale value of the car, however that also depends on the condition of the rest of the car. If it were me and I was on a budget, I would go with what you have and take care of the things that really need attention like rusty floor boards, frame rails, gas tank, brake system, battery tray area, interior, etc. before trying to undo the body mods. That is unless they were poorly done and showing rust from beneath. Honestly, I kind of like the mods that were made, although given a clean body to start, I would not have done them myself. Keep in mind that any permanent body mod will likely decrease the possible value of the vehicle, unless you find a buyer who appreciates and wants those specific mods or is willing to pay a premium for not having to do them himself.

Hey Jim welcome ot the site. I don't get up to Oakland very often but look forward to meeting you at one of the local event sometime. Good luck on your project and post some pics soon.

Wow Mike, nice job. You and Rich have inspired me to tackle this job myself in the near future. I only hope it turns out half as nice as yours.

Sorry Arne, the coment was actually based on Datsun example in post #98. Unfortunately I did not see that there was another page of posts with an update on the font design (post #106). That's what I get for viewing this from my PDA when I should have been working....This is also the reason why the comment was so brief, and sadly why the emotion and smiley wink at the end did not come across. I certainly appreciate the effort you and your vendor are putting into this and I do not wish to rescind my order at this time. My concern with what I saw in post #98 was that the font for the Datsun example was too skinny for my tastes, but the example in post #106 looks much better, assuming that the thickness and size of the font used for the Datsun version will be the same relative to that displayed for the 240-Z version so far. I don't know what the original Datsun version looked like, but I like the design and font size used for the 240-Z version much better, and look forward to the seeing the final design.

Manage Attachments should work fine, or you can click the little paper clip to attach images and other files. Perhaps you browser was being finicky for some reason. When you say "nohting happens" what do you mean? Clicking Manage Attachments should pop open another window. Perhaps you need to allow popups or JavaScript for this site?

Welcome to the site and good luck in your search. When you're ready to go look, give a shoult out and someone here might be willing to go with you to lend and expert eye, so to speak.

I hope you guys can work out a decent font for these because the ones pictured just won't do. Edit: This comment was actually based on the font design for the Datsun strip in post #98. I now see the new design in post #106 which looks much better in my opinion. See my post below for more detailed comments.

The ZX I pulled mine from had 330k so I'm not taking any chances. Sadly the spider gears in the diff from the same car are nearly gone. Not sure what to do there since they are apparently NLA...LSD perhaps?

Hey Julio, who did you get the quote from? If I puss out on rebuilding my own or run into a snag, I may be in the market for a quote minus the parts which I already have on hand.

I don't think you're being a wuss. Those cars need A LOT of work, and since you're being honest about your level of experience, these might not be the best place to start. The answer really depends on what you want to accomplish, the timeframe for completion, and how much time and money you have to devote to the project. If your goal is to get a car on the road in a short period of time for pure enjoyment, you might be better off picking up a driver with a good body to start with. On the other hand, if you're the type who enjoys "the process", and you're not short of time and money, making one out of the two is certainly feasible.

Sweet! You must be filled with anticipation for that first drive. I know the feeling to some degree. I hope it is everything you're wishing for.

Good luck with your project and welcome to the Fray!

Be careful with the "tow hooks" as they are actually just tie down hooks and not rated for towing. Use only the ones on the front, and pull slowly and steadily up as slight an incline as you can manage with the trailer. They were strong enough to pull my car onto a flatbed tow truck for relocation so you should be fine. If the hooks are missing, you could probably get away using the front suspension member, but I don't recommend pulling from the lower radiator support member. If the frame rails are badly rusted out near where they attach to the firewall, go very slowly and make sure nobody is standing behind the car. Probably a good idea either way. Good luck.

. Funny stuff McGuffin. I'm glad you have a sense of humor. Sometimes you just have to go with the flow until something better comes along. Been there, done that.