=Enigma=

Carl, can you explain why you think this would present a problem? The painted pieces are suspension parts so proper torque will be critical. In fact, most of the suspension parts will be assembled using the flanged bolts since I couldn't find any non-flanged cap screws in the right sizes in 10.9 grade. Yup, I thought of this but I am really more concerned with using the flanged bolts without a washer which would scrape and possible tear, crack or wrinkle the paint on the way in. I'm hoping to minimize the number of places rust can start on my freshly painted parts. On that note, would it make more sense to use flat washers to achieve my goals? Would I need to worry about the bolts working themselves loose or not holding their torque settings if I use flat washers? Most of the bolts are 10.9 grade and will be torqued to spec. Yep, again I'm not too worried about this but I felt like the flange on the bolt would do more damage. Can't get around the marring the lock washer will do unless you don't use 'em. Maybe I'm overthinking this whole thing. It wouldn't be the first time, and certinaly won't be the last. I'm just glad the damn fasteners finally arrived, even they're not gold chromate colored like I thought they would be...... Oh well, I'm not going for a strictly pure stock look anyway and they are zinc plated. Thanks for the comments guys. Adam

It's looking great Mike. I think the finishing panel looks fine, although I too prefer the contrast the darker finished provide. I think a satin black looks the best with bright colors like yellow or red, but the stock gray look pretty good with darker colors. In any event, congrats on getting things back underway. Is that some rust I see on the inside of the roof, or old adhesive?

You will also need the distributor fixing plate pictured here: I couldn't find one on a 280Zx so I grabbed one from an 83 Maxima engine....at least I think that's what it was. Go to the following URL for more pics. They're at the very bottom. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

You do realize that renders your lock washer nearly useless right? Here's an image of the type of bolt I'm referring to: Note that this type of bolt usually has a serrated mating surface, which is why I asked the question in the first place. Something is telling me that it is unwise or unacceptable to use this type of bolt with a lockwasher. Anyone? . . .

Is there any rule that precludes the use of flange bolts with split lockwashers? The flange bolts in question are the typw with a notched contact surface. I was not able to find JIS bolts of the needed size in a standard cap screw type so I got the flange bolts instead. I'd like to use them with lock washers to prevent the marring of the painted surfaces they will make contact with.

Actually it says: "Nissan OEM transistory ignition units in stock for most 74-83 Z car models." Suggesting that they stock modules for those years and not the the representative image is appropriate for all of those years. Perhaps reading a bit slower will help..

Here's a pic of the 1979-81 280ZX N/A and 810 (E12-80 Nissan # 22020-S6701) and the 1982-83 280ZX N/A (E12-92 Nissan # 22020-W3100 or E12-93 Nissan # 22020-P9700) So what is the picture you posted Stephen? Is it the 75-78 ign module? It's neither the 79-83 or the item bloxman posted. Sorry but it wasn't quite clear to me.

It looks like an electronc ignition module to me. It's definitely not from a 79-83 280 ZX which is all I can speak for. I've never seen the 280Z version. It could be from that, a later Z or an altogether different Nissan.

I almost voted for the boob thread just because it was included. All kidding aside, it's definitely a combination of the vast wealth of Z knowledge on here contributed by numerous individuals, and the friendly unselfish way in which it is shared, as well as the feeling of community fostered by our members. The fact that this board exists and the items I listed above were in no small way a part of the reason I decided to go forward with the purchase of my Z instead of my other choices. Thanks too all! Adam

Very nice job. I love the look of the engine compartment. Can you tell me what the two hoses going to the top of the valve cover are for? Is this part of the dry sump oiling system?

Well I had fun today at my local Pick & Pull today. I pulled a F54/P79 engine and 5spd out of an 10/80 280ZX 2+2 licensed as an 81 and got the whole thing for $289. I have never pulled an engine before but it was kinda fun. 6 bolts and some hose and wire cutting. Done in 2hrs and that was taking my time. My plans for it are a mild build up with head and intake manifold port matching, stage 1 or 2 cam and a header. Engine rotates fine and seems to have good compression when turning it via the crank pully bolt. My guess is that it is a running engine since the demise of the car was an impact to the left front quarter panel which bent the unibody and frame rail pretty badly. ODO said 183K miles. Supposedly the 2+2 got a stronger clutch setup, and is the same as the turbo models, consisting of a different flywheel with a 240mm friction area vs the standard 225mm, and stronger pressure plate with 775lbs? clamping force vs. 550lbs? or something like that. Please feel free to correct these numbers. They are from long term memory and can't find a reference to the figures anywhere. Now that I have a late FS5C71B, I'll think I need to get back and grab an 3.9 R200, and the moustach bar and half-shafts from a 280Z. I found a 73' that has a swapped R200 so it probably has the bar and shafts I'm looking for. I hope it's there when I go back. I have a FS5C71A now with a the stock 3.364 R180. My understanding is that the FS5C71AB is geared too high for use with the 3.364 R180. Will someone please confirm or deny this?

Actually it could be either, there is both an L28 N42 block and a N42 head. It depends where on the engine he is looking.......

Perhaps it's time to get that torque wrench recalibrated........

Daddz, I believe you have a different strain of this disease, the WIAYAZ syndrome. This is an acute variation on the WIAT syndrome which manifests itself as an inate desire to overburden one's self with an excess of tasks to get to "WIAT". The name is translated as "Well I Aquired Yet Another Z"........

Why not get it directly from the source? http://www.pertronix.com/downloads/ignitor12vneg.pdf And here's a great instruction sheet on installating and electronic ignition hosted by Gavin, one of our members. http://www.viczcar.com/Technical/Dizzy/elecdiz240z.pdf

Santa Cruz, CA?

It's not WIAI, it's WIAT. "While I'm AT [it, somehting, anything]", might as well.....

redundant post removed.....

Anyone ever seen or used one of these? Update: Here's the manufacturer....Choose Nissan 240Z in the selection window: http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/PROD_PASSCAR.HTML And the place I first saw these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120020991205 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230018963351

I believe this to be correct 75-76 (3.545) (R200) 77-78 MT (3.545) (R200) 77-78 AT (3.545) (R180) More here: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

My bro is a serious ludite and loves collecting old 70's stuff. Clothes, furniture, decor, music, you name it. He finds most of the stuff at garage sales and thrift stores. And he even dresses 70's style most of the time. Funny thing is he looks good in the stuff. One of his most interesting habits is hording 8 track players and tapes of all shapes and sizes. Remember Dyyynooomite! He's got some really cool tapes and a working factory original 8-track player in his 72' Monte Carlo. Can you say Yeah Baby! BTW, he was stoked when I bought the Z. He looked right at home in the passenger seat on the way back from the PO's house.

Welcome to the fray. Let's see some pics! Sounds like you've got some nice rides.

Just for reference, here is some great info on the subject of damper oil. http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/damper.html

Yeah, we know all about YOUR type........

If the line that spouted fuel was the return line to the tank, it is likely that the spouting was the result of air pressure built up in the tank. Was it hot outside? On the rust in the line, it doesn't look to me like there's enough to even begin worrying about. If all our lines looked as good as this, we'd be in great shape. Stop being paranoid.:classic: