=Enigma=

My biggest problem is that everytime I do anything on the car I end up finding 5 other things that either "need to be done" or that I "want to do". And I'm not talking about mods here, just things that need to be done in order to complete another job I am working on or things that I notice which need attention. Wasn't there another thread on this topic a while back? Oh yes, the WIAT syndrome. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20113&highlight=WIAT

Here's a pic of the gas cap and chain on my 73. Note that the rubber flap that protects tha paint when the cap is hangin by the chain is missing. And don't ask me what the hell that block of aluminum is doing in there. I haven't had a chance to explore that one since I bought the car. :stupid:

The orange lines are definitely connected to the float bowl overflows, however these normally terminate at nipples on the rear of the stock air cleaner housing. Since this car no longer has the stock air cleaner, the PO extended them and ran them out the bottom of the engine compartment. If I were you, I would figure out a way to do this with your existing air cleaners, find a stock housing, or at least put a filter if some sort on the end and make sure it's not routed to close to the exhaust. Someone who has had to deal with this might have some other ideas.

According to what I've heard/read, your 4sp probably isn't up to the task you've handed it but I have no personal experience with this.

It seems to vary from article to article with numbers ranging from 3% - 30% so I don't believe there is a simple formula that can be applied to all cars and all dyno methods and results. See the following for some more info: http://www-unix.oit.umass.edu/~tcroy/articles/horsepower.htm http://www.germanmotorcars.com/Dyno_load%20vs%20inertia_1.htm

It may be easier to take it to a good welder and have it repaired.

Welcome aboard! Lots of great info on here. Most of it can easily be found using the search feature but let us know if that doesn't help and ask away. Good luck with your projects. Chicago is a great city and happens to be where I was born. Great unless it's summertime or wintertime. Thank god my parents had the sense to move to California in 1968. Cheers!

A simple search will get you the answers you need. I believe he firing order is the same on the all L6 engines used in Z cars from 1970-83. Here's an example. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21863&highlight=firing+order

Bummer. I'm afraid those will not clean up to the standard I am hoping to achieve. Sorry but I'm gonna have to pass on these. Thanks very much for taking the time to get the pics and posting them. I really appreciate it.

My God Carl.. I would think that someone as busy as yourself would have something better to do that state the obvious.

Congrats. Make that the 213th RHD car to be made. Where are you located? England, Australia, Japan, US?

Let me know when you get a picture(s) of the horns. Still interested depending on the condition.

That's what happens when you park a car under pines and leave it for years uncovered. What a shame.

Ok, I believe the mystery cars are........ 1953 Sunbeam-Talbot 90 Mk IIA (White) 1950-52 Sunbeam-Talbot 90 Mk II (Red) And you gotta love that gull wing Benzo too. Am I right? Do I win an all expenses paid trip to the car show?

I believe the mysterious pair is a pair of Sunbeam Talbots in the range of 1947-50. This is going to require some research. Nice pics and yes, I am jealous but not for long. I'm gonna find some good local shows to fill the empty place in my heart and mind.

Man that sounds like lots of fun E-man. I wish I was closer to you guys. I'm gonna have to see if we have anything like that here.

Congrats on your find Eric and welcome to the forum. Lots of great info here as I'm sure you will find out in ot time at all. Check the tech articles for the more common upgrades and use the search feature to find answer to common questions. If you can't find the answers you are looking for, feel free to ask. And thanks for bringing us back on topic Daddy....erm...I mean Doug.

Many fuel pumps on EFI systems are on a timer that runs for a few seconds when you first turn the key ot the "ON" position to prime or pressurize the fuel system to ensure fuel delivery. My 4runner is like this. It stops after a few seconds in case all you wanted to do was turn the ignition ON to power lights, radio, or other accessories. Once the engine is started it should resume running and continue to run as long as the engine does. If it does not, there is something wrong with the timer circuit assuming one exists. Perhaps a 280ZX owner can chime in on this. Please note I originally thought it operated like my carbureted 73' in which the pump continues to run as long as the key is in the "ON" position, regardless of whether the engine is running or not.

Ian, whlie not the worst thing you could have said, it's not the brightest either. Guys, don't rip on him too hard. He is just a kid after all with little worldly experience. I'm sure he'll choose his words more carefully in the future.

Thanks Paul. I look forward to seeing the pics.

I am interested in the original horns as well as the front left middle,and right valances depending on the condition. As mentioned previously, please let us know where you are so we have some idea if a transaction makes sense for each of us.

Wow! That's pretty damn cool. I want one. Racing games have always been my favorite, and I have struggled to provide some realism as far as the environment. I once started drawing plans for cockpit like seating unti with speakers and vibration units in the seat, but never actually built the thing. I figured for all the trouble someone would eventually build one worth buying. I imagine that this one is probably very costly but it could be worth it if you could split the cost with some buddies or write it offf as a business expense.

Sounds like the car is running very rich. Make sure the fuel nozzles arent stuck in the down position and that they can travel freely when operating the choke. It might be a good idea to pull the carbs off and do a good cleaning. If you disassemble them, do them one at a time to you don't mix up the parts.

Welcome to the board Terry. What sort of condition is the car in and what are you plans for it? Let's see some pics!

Derek, why would you need to disable the starter just to get the fuel pump pumping? The fuel pump should run just by turning the ignition to the "Run" position. Am I missing something?