=Enigma=

Welcome to the board Jeff. Some things to consider: As an older car, the 78 280Z received more smog equipment than the earlier versions, resulting in a decrease in power in at least one case(smog pump). To compensate for that and other things, the engine size was increased to 2.8L, up from 2.4L for the 240Z and 2.6L for the 260Z. Along with the additional smog controls and bigger engine, came more weight as well, including some in the body and accessories. Not nearly as much as the 280ZX, but enought to feel it in the seat of the pants according to some. In any event, this sluggishness could be due to any number of factors starting with bad spark plugs, spark plug wires, dizzy cap & rotor, poor ignition timing, dirty or worn fuel injectors (assuming you still have them), dirty mistuned carbs, or just too many miles and a loss of compression due to worn rings and/or valves. Start by checking the more obvious things (plugs, wires, cap & rotor, fuel filters, ignition timing) that can be easily and cheaply fixed or replaced. Next run a can or two of fuel injector cleaner through the system or clean up the carbs. If you have carbs, clean and tune then or get them tuned. If necessary get the valves adjusted or do ityourself. And if all that still doesn't help, I'd do a compression check to determine the overall condition of the engine and determine what needs the most attention and proceed from there. I hope this helps, IMHO, Adam

I guess this depends on the clearance we're talking about. I would expect that there would be some flex in the axle and some give in the backing plate due to g-forces, but if the two together are flexing more than a milimeter or perhaps two I would be concerned. Otherwise, bend the backing plate a bit and be done with it.

Well I wasn't able to make it after all.......Seems like there is always something else going on that takes precedence.

Welcome to the board. I love my Z very much, but if that's a 68' fastback, I'm not sure which I'd rather have. That car always got my attention.

Hey welcome to the board. There are a few posts here on adding an MSD, including on e I did recently on my 73'. Just use the search feature and you should find them easily. I believe there is one in the tech articles as well. It too should come up when doing a search.

The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 and the rotor spins counter-clockwise. Some caps have a mark where #1 is and are tabbed so that you can only install the cap on the dizzy one way. If this is the case with yours, this should be easy. If #1 is not marked you can find it by rotating the crank pulley until the mark on the pulley lines up with the timing mark representing TDC on the timing indicator. If the rotor tip is facing the front of the car, you found #1. If not you're 180deg off. In that case rotate the crank 180deg until the markes line up on the pulley and the rotor tip faces the front of the car, then install the plug wires in the order above. Here's a link to a page detailing a swap to a 280ZX dixxy with a pic of the order on the cap and the general position of the rotor in position #1. It should be roughly the same as a 280Z. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

Welcome to the board Andrea. Good luck with your Z. I hope your stepdad takes a look at this thread. The SUs really are worth keeping and in the end are easier to work on than the 4 barrel. Folks without experience tuning dual carbs generally think it is a very difficult thing to do, and in some cases it is, but not with the SUs. Get the ZT "Just SUs" video as suggested. It will really help and may save you money in the end.

Jmark, the Nikon D200 looks like a nice camera but it's just a bit over my budget once you factor in a lens and accessories. Thanks for the pointer to dpreview.com. This is where I have done most of my research to date. Go240Zags, thanks for the pointer, I haven't been there yet. I'll probably go with the Canon 20D at this point and spend the difference between that and the 30D on accessories. It depends on how much commission I make this quarter. I have to save the rest for my trip to Europe.

Anyone have either of these cameras? Is the the extra $300--400 dollar difference between the two worth it? the primary difference seems to be a larger LCD and 5fps vs. 2.5fps rapid shot modes. Also, it is worth ponying up the additional $400-500 for the EF-S 17-85 stabilized lens or should I just start out with the stock EF-S 18-55mm non-stabilized lens? Adam

It looks simple enough to make one. Just go to an upholstery shop and have em whip one up for you, or buy the materials and have your wife or Mom tear up their sewing machine needles trying to stitch it for you.

Is it working properly otherwise and actually pumping fuel? Is this a stock replacement or an aftermarket pump? My guess is you got a bad one.

Better yet, tell em' to get a job and buy their own damn cars.

It's not that bad once you get rid of the wing. It's definitely not my style but I'm sure somone one here can identify with it.

Hello.....

I supposed someone knows what you're rambling about...........:stupid:

79-81 280ZX, B210 and Maximas had the e-12-80, and the 82-83 280ZX and some Maximas has the E-12-92 with the extra prongs. There is speculation that these extra connectors were used by the EFI brain to modify the timing during certain conditions. You don't want this one. The one reason I can think of to go with the 79-81 dizzy with the E-12-80 is the fact that the dizzy is larger with a larger cap which will help reduce the likielyhood of arcing between secondary posts caused by ionization of the air inside the cap. The posts are farther apart=less arcing. You can also drill a couple holes in the cap to help reduce build up but then you have to worry about moisture. A second is that the 79-81 is supposed to have a better timing curve for a NA engine. The turbo version is worthless unless you have a turbo, but it could probably get you a few $$$ on eBay.

You would have been better off borrowing or buying a pin puller, but then hind sight is always 20-20.

I've got a 73' just like Pop's Z and DO NOT have the items you are referring to either.

IMHO the first gen, or S30's are the best looking of all. My second choice would be a Z32, twin turbo if I could find one. I really don't care for any of the others (S130, Z31, Z33).

You prude, betty blow up was the best part!

As I understood it, and I could be wrong on this, but the purpose of the ballast resistor is to reduce the voltage going to the mechanical points on earlier cars to reduce the likely hood of frying/burning them, and nothing else. I believe it reduces or basically halfs the voltage going to the points.

That's interesting, what's the theory behind this. Did you mean "install the muffler where the scorching ends toward the rear?"

Welcome aboard!

In an emergency you can use an appropriately sized nail, but it should definintely be replaced with the proper sized cotter pin when possible.

Lookin' good there Jared! Have a great weekend!