=Enigma=

I used an old 14mm Snap-On combo wrench I had. The closed end side is very thin and I didn't have to do any grinding to get it to fit. This has come in handy a few times but obviously wouldn't be as cheap as the garage sale modified version. I suggest trying to find a hardended one that will still be strong enough after grinding away all that material. Of course, it will also be harder to grind.

Thanks for your sacrifice. It is not forgotten. Adam

Wow Arne! That's quite the find. They look absolutely great.

Ummm.....could it be Zanta Clauz?

How about just getting a better tuck job on the exhaust?

You know that you;re supposed to slow down when going over speed bumps right?

Welcome.!!!!!

Dood, as of this writing you have 4 posts and in three of them you are asking where you can get a plastic tank. There's no need for this. Ask the question once and bump the thread if necessary. If someone knows they will reply. IMHO, Adam

You might try adding fuel stabililzer to the fuel when you know they will be sitting for a while. It won't help the rust but it will prevent the gum up.

Welcome to the fray. Love your video BTW.

Congrats on your purchase Lisa and welcome to the board. Note that most of the talk here is related to restoration or refresh of the early Z's to factory spec, near factory spec, as well as performance modifications to the original inline 6 the cars came with. If you're after more info on what are commonly refered to as hybrid Z'z, take a look at www.hybridz.com.

Unfortunately the piece I am missing is the female connector that plugs into the side of the MSD unit which has the violet/green wires. I'm sure MSD could probably provide it. I will probably do this at some point.

Congrats Zrush! That's awsome. I'm sure it's nice to be rcognized for all the work you have done putting you Z together.

I seem to remember hearing that there were some ball joints which had a taper that did properly fit the taper in the steering knuckle. Was the play you was there or was is the ball moving up and down in the socket it rotates in?

That dent looks more like hole to me and that's really too bad because the rest looks great.

I believe it was jmortensen who brought up the idea of using the ZX dizzy w/o the module. He stated that the MSD6x has this function built in, and I would have to say he is probably right since the MSD is in essence an electronic ignition in and of itself. If I had the original connector that plugs into the MSD unit for the violet/green trigger wires I might even try it myself, but since I don't there is no way I can, at least not easily. If and when my module ever dies, I'll try this. Richard, assuming the dizzy you bought is in serviceable condition, it will work with the MSD. Once you find out what kind it is and obtain any missing/incorrect parts like the fixing plate or the lower mount, give it a go. No need to spend the additional money if you don't have to. I have a Z car microfiche CD coming. If nobody chimes in with the correct model based on the part# you provided in a week or so, I'll get it for you.

You guys who take on a project like this have my utmost respect. I wish I had the time and means to do a compete ground up resto of a worthy candidate like this. Perhaps one day I will. For now, I'm more than content with my 73' driver. No matter what, any car I ever own will be a driver, regardless of how rare or valuable it might be. That's what these things were made for. Good luck with your new project.

Wow! Nice job man. Looks better than come so called "professional" jobs I have seen. I'd love to try this some time myself. Maybe in another 10 years or so.

Ok, hijack over. Sorry Richard. Did you find a 280ZX dizzy yet?

You CAN remove the diff without dropping the whole rear suspension. Just unbolt the diff isolator from the front diff mount, unbolt the half-shafts from the wheel side, and unbolt the diff from the moustache bar. There may ba a little more disassembly required to get it out in one piece, but you can put enough of it back in place to leave yourself with a rolling chassis. Personally, I'd remove everything, strip all the undercoating and paint off down to bare metal, then POR it.

How do you anodize chrome? Did you paint is with candy apple or something?

Nice job there Dave. I thought about mounting my MSD unit there as well but I wanted it closer to the battery, as well as being up a bit higher to avoid road splash and moisture from the front air inlet. The nice thing about the location you chose is that you don't need to fab a mounting bracket.

Sorry John, I didn't see your post until now. I was not aware you could even do this. I simply followed the MSD instructions and all the threads I have read to date. Also, based on my understanding, the violet/green wires were intended to be used with a crank based magnetic pickup, but I'm a noob at this stuff too so I suppose it's possible. Sounds like you have it working. I'm not sure why using the MSD's trigger would make a difference in the voltage being sent to the coil. But I can see the logic in not using a trigger to trigger a trigger. Either way, the MSD unit is sending a full +12 volts to the coil.

Chris, thanks for the compliment on the wiring. I took extra time to clean it up once I finished the routing. I'm pretty happy with the results save one or two things I still need to clean up.

In looking at the pictures you posted several days ago, it looked like you had an early 280Z or maybe even a 260Z dizzy. Someone with a parts list should be able to tell based on the number you provided. I haven't received mine yet. Just ordered the CD a few days ago.