=Enigma=

Yes, as a matter of fact. You win the "Know it all" award.

When you can get a decent set or shocks that will last nearly a lifetime for between $125 and $200, why buy them twice. I bought my Tokico HP strut inserts and spring kit from this same guy for $350, but you can buy the strut inserts seperately. Here's a couple links. KYB GR-2 $118 + $22 shipping http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8056029253 Tokico HP $199 + $12 shipping http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8056029746

The ones below were actually threaded onto the mounting bolt below the nut, so I assume they were just stored there in case you wanted to add even more. Dunno. Anyway, they're all coming off.

Nice job Mike. Do you have any pics of the work you did crafting the mounting parts? Or a finished pic from below?

Looking good man. Any plans to add the OEM black stripes with the 240Z logo on the lower lower panels? Might look nice.

Very cool! I wondered why there were spacers above and below. Some of the ones below are missing but I don't need them anyway. This is going to make a huge difference for me. All I needed was another inch.

Hahahahhahahah........nice try. Prepare to lighten your wallet!

I think I need a drink after looking at that. Doesn't take much to convince me...:eek:

SLAAAPPP! :sick:

Can I remove both the hex and the round spacers and mount the seat directly to the crossmember? I keep hitting my damn head on the stupid sun roof outer rail. :stupid:

I don't think patients will help you unless they used to be auto body men. And with a bunch of patients around, you would need to have a lot more patience to get the job done, or you would end up a patient yourself.

And you could always use the strut old spacers to make a couple spindle pin pullers. I ordered my front strut bearings and rear strut spacers before examining the old ones. Turns out I didn't need to replace them but I will anyway.

No matter what I am buying, I will always research ALL the options myself before making a decision. In my case, I happen to have a line on several different heads so I want to make sure I purchase the right one(s) for my goals in the present, and possibly for the future as well.

I believe he said it was stored in the garage for 10 years. Is there any reason why all of this would deteriorate under those conditions?

Nvm...........you guys hashed it out. When doing my suspension, I replaced the front strut bearings, the rear strut spacers with items from VB, and replaced the bump stops with cut down versions of the ones that came with my Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit. The Tokico spring installation instructions recommended cutting down the bump stops to minimize the amount of travel lost by installing shorter springs.

This is simply a bump stop. You can replace it with any aftermarket bump stop such as those from Energy Suspension, or go with the stock rubber replacement from Black Dragon/VB.

Nothing a little hacking and welding wouldn't cure. On the manifold that is.

Huh???????

Whoops, my bad. Good info nonetheless.

Welcome aboard. I am wondering what's under that "custom" driver side floor panel. I'm betting some serious rot. Might want to check that out.

Hey! Welcome to the fray.

Wow! Thanks for all the great insight Paul. I may have some questions for you in the near future as I gather parts for an L28 build up. The block I'll be using for the build is an F54 which will come with a P79. What's been going through my head recently was whether the Maxima N-47 head off of an W24(2.4L) block was a worthwhile investment for a stage I or II level street performance engine? I have a bead on one or two for a fairly cheap price. Based on what you said here, it sounds like it is. So, if I had a choice between the Maxima N47/L24 or the N42 and P79 from L28's for my build, what would you recommend? Also, is there any difference betwen the N42 head found on N42(2.8L) block vs. those found on the Maxima P30(2.4L) block?

If you look close, you can see a black fuel filter in the upper left hand side, a silver fuel pressure regulator in the upper right, all connected to a fuel rail with a blue tube connecting the two halfs.

Jason has a diagram of this setup here: http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/ignition.html

You poor poor man. Hopefully you'll get over this once you sober up.