=Enigma=

If they are the original flat tops that came on the 73', ditch em and get some round (dome)tops. You'll be much happier in the end.

I would first consider whether or not you will be able to get it smogged after the swap. My guess is that with an older engine, and those triple carbs, it will be very difficult if not impossible to pass a visual inspection, much less and an emissions test. Perhaps things are different in your state but it's worth considering before doing the work.

JM, I believe in the end, 240zwinter picked up an 81' dizzy and used the E12-80 with that rather than the older dizzy. It might be difficult to get a good ground mounting the E12-80 on a dizzy not designed for it. The materials I have read seem to stress making sure of good contact between the rear of the module and the dizzy itself. But in the end, I can't say for sure. I'll defer to you "experts".

Alan, stop the "woe is me" crap. I found what you said to be very interesting and spot on topic. No need for the self deprecating remarks. Oh wait, I just blasted you too. jk Sorry mate.

Now that's more like it! I was worried after that last "wet" uhh.....do-not, that we're weren't gonna see you break it loose. Glad to see you came to your senses

Ok, Dave. I finally have the budget for this so start making up one of each for me. Check your PMs.

Well that just sucks. I know what you must be going through. He looks just like the first dog I ever had. His name was Noogie which is foot or boot in Russian. My dad named him that because he was always under foot. Take heart in the fact that you both had the pleasure of each others company and that he will be going on the doggy heaven.

Congrats on getting it started, and getting such an early start with a Z. I had my eye on my grandmothers 68' Pontiac Tempest Le Mans at your age.

Here's a diagram for a 75-78. See attached.

I'm looking to first insure that my Z is mechanically sound and in 100% complete working order. Once I achieve that, I plan on working on the performance side of things. The first step in that direction is the addition of 1" lowering springs and quality struts, second will be a complete carb rebuild, and then the addition of a replacement head and some port work. Next, I will start building up a mild performance L28 to replace my L24. next in line will be some nice racing seats, a performance coil, new rims and tires, a nice Momo steering wheel and a BRE style rear spolier.

This may provide some use info on valuation of the older Zs. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20123

Bummer man. I was hoping to run into you one day while cruising the cliffs and milk your brain and ride for useful info. Good luck with the sale.

I bought their kit and video. I haven't rebuilt the carbs yet because I'm still working in the suspension, but it looks to be fairly simple. I think the hard part will be learning to tune them using the unisyn device. As for what they're worth, that all depends on the condition they are in, but based on the prices I've seen on eBay, I'd say anywhere from $75 to $150 for what you show in the pic.

I've got the top and bottom mount stoppers in good condition but I can't help with the bushing. It's air pollution now. Fire fire fire! Heheheh

I'm sorry, that's just wrong.

I got them from VicBrit for $20. 2 x P/N#62-360

Hey......not true. This only took me a few hours and I was being obcessive about it. This is one of the reasons I use the orbital. It does an excellent job and gives me time to finish the job before noon so I can take it out for a spin around the beach when all the chix are out in their skimpy little bikinis. :devious:

Unfortunately the bearings and spacers are too few and in the wrong order in this picture. But the rest appears to be accurate.

What I noticed the most was the lack of an air cleaner element, and some nasty rust on the air cleaner body, but I'm sure you'll get to that.

Bummer dude! I hate to think of what I might do if someone molested my Z like that! Good luck getting it back together. Perhaps it's time to consider a gnose conversion?

Hey now.....I was just following your instructions.

What the Japanses couldn't win on the batlefield, they'll win in the boardroom.

The boot comes with metal clamps that you wrap around the boot ends, and the crimp with a standard pair of end cutters available at any hardware store. As for where the grease goes, there are only 4 races for the bearing, as you shove the spacers and bearings down into the opening, some of the grease comes out the bottom by the boot. I insert a spacer, them some grease, then a bearing, then some grease, then a spacer and so on..... The excess grease can be left in the boot, or wiped out if you prefer, but you should have some extra in the boot anyway. Not an excessive amount but enough to keep that end of the shaft lubricated.

It turned out pretty good for 33yr old original paint. The Avatar image was taken in the bright sun prior to purchase. It was one of the pictures used in the web ad for the car. The paint was not oxidized or anything like that, but it definintely needed a good polishing. I use mostly Griot's products, but any high quality clay, polish and wax will do. The job started by doing a very thorough wash/rinse job. Once done, I broke out the paint cleaning clay along with some Speed Shine, and took off everything that the soap and sheepskin didn't. A little car wash soap and water in a spray bottle would work just as well as the Speed Shine and save you a few $$$. Dirt and grit work/bake their way into the paint, helped along by the sun and air/rain borne pollutants. Basically the clay removes all the grit and imperfections you still feel after even after doing a wash. This is something you should always do before polishing a car. After that, I used my Porter Cable random orbital sander with an Orange Polishing Pad and very mild Machine Polish #3. After the polish was was thoroughly and completely wiped off using a terry cloth towel, I applied Griot's Best of Show wax using the sander and a red wax pad. The sander and wax pad really work the wax into the paint. This makes a huge difference, as does the claying process. The last step was to wipe the excess wax off using a new clean terry towel. Oh so shiney, and feels like butter!

Here's an onteresting article on the aerodynamic characteristic of the early Z. Unfortunately it doesn't mention the benefits of the rear spoiler regarding the negative pressure which pulls exhaust fumes inside the cab. in any event, the first step to reducing the exhaust fume problem is checking/replacing the hatch and tail light seals, as well as any holes caused by rust rotted body panels. As for gas fumes, I believe that has been covered for the most part already. In a nutshell is comes down to checking/replacing all the hoses related to the gas tank, including the filler neck tube which is often the problem. As stated earlier, this has been covered ad nauseum in the forums here so do a search and see what you can find. http://zccw.org/Tech/Body/early_aero.asp