=Enigma=

You're the man Mike. Thanks for the quick turn around on this feature request. Unfortunately it looks like it's not working at the moment. <snip> Not Found The requested URL /photopost/browseimages.php was not found on this server. Apache/2.0.46 (Red Hat) Server at www.classiczcars.com Port 80 <snip>

But why do that? Sometimes it entertaining to see ppl making asses out of themselves.

That doesn't sound like much fun, but it sure makes for an entertaining mental image. I can almost see the look on your face when the gauges started spewing green fluid. What a mess that must be. Sorry about your troubles. I guess you know what you'll be doing for the weekend.

Very nice Z. If it were mine I'd lose the hood. It just looks out of place with the rest of the lines of the car. And I would put the front bumper back on as well.

I'm nearing completion on my suspension refresh and I'm alrady getting excited about that first drive. I can't wait. Similar deal, new durathane bushings, Tokico reds/HPs, brake system overhaul, everything stripped and painted .

There goes beandip yelling again. Must be the viagra.

I am interested. What condition are they in? Any rips, tears, or holes?

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be bad plug wires. Once the new wires were on, it was good to go, revving all the way to 6000 and a lot smoother. If you haven't already, check and/or replace your dizzy cap & rotor as well. You'll find the head type on the right side of the head between the #1 and #2 spark plugs, maybe #2 and #3. If it's stock, it will be an E88. Apparently there was more than one version of the E88. Go to the link below to learn more about the various heads, although I'm not sure it details the difference of the various E88's. In a nutshell the differences are due to increasing smog restrictions and include larger combustion chambers and lower compression. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/ Cheers,

The "bumps stops" or rubber bumpers are part of the strut assembly and mount on the piston rod inside the coil pack. The bump stops prevent the strut assembly from bottoming out on the upper spring seat during severe compression. See #4 the image linked below for a visual. Rear Suspension - Bump stop I just purchased a set of KYB strut boots that have a bump stop built into the boot. I prefer these to the harder durathane bump stop that came with my Energy Suspension bushing kit. KYB strut boot . . . .

I thought I remembered that option. When I couldn't find it I figured I was mixing this board up with another. When you have the time Mike, I think we'd all love to see that again.

My guess would be for additional strength.

Great find. I'm loving that last set of pages. Way too funny. The picture on the lower right corner looks like they guy is having a problem with excess flatulence.

Wow, this is just plain silly. Let's all take a deep breath and check our egos at the door. Thanks for the post Alan. Interesting info. I'm sure the originator of this topic will appreciate it, and that's really all that matters at this point.

I think you're missing the point. This is something you do AFTER polishing to preserve the finish and seal the pores of the metal so that you don't have to break out that polisher nearly as often. If you visit the web site they have several magazine articles discussing the use nad benefits of it, however it would be nice to hear from one of our own that it works.

Hey, welcome to the board Dewey. As you've probably seen there is plenty of info and people to help with questions. Most everything has been covered here at least once so a simple search will answer most questions, but feel free to throw them out if there is one you can't find an answer for.

I just saw this stuff on the show Trucks. You can get a kit direct from Zoop that covers 75 sq. ft. for $130 or one that covers 30 sq. ft. for $99. Seems a bit costly but if it lasts for 2-3 yrs. as claimed it might be worth it. http://www.zoopseal.com

Oh my god....................

Welcome to the board Tim. Lots-o-good stuff here. You'll be amazed what you can find with a little searching.

Maybe the two of you shold trade and stop oogling each others wares. Arne, what the heck does the MW stand for on the presets?

Probably a wise idea. Nice to be admin huh?

Beandip, it seems like you've been doing a fair amount of yelling on the boards lately. Take it easy or you're gonna have to double up on that blood pressure medicine. Life's too short to sweat the small stuff.

I found a rubber EGR block-off cap in the misc/generic parts section in Kragen. You know, the area with all the common but misc pieces/parts by Lisle Co. I used it to cap off the air injection system on my 73 until I have time to remove the whole system and plug up the holes in the manifold. I was like $2.

I purchased my one owner 1973 240Z with 78,000 original miles back in October 2005. VIN# HLS30-156236. Very clean, original paint, always garaged, all original except for the front air dam, performance sway bars, and 5 speed tranny.

Happy B-day beandip. Buy yourself a gift from me. You're welcome buddy.

What's wrong with the door handle?