=Enigma=

I'm pretty sure mine are made of asbestos. Not very nice stuff to say the least. I decided to leave it a alone until a later date.

My goodness..........what is a Z addict to do.

As stated this insulation was added as part of a series of dealer modifications implemented to alleviate starting, stalling and performance problems due to vapor lock and percolation. See the following article for more details on the 3 stage modification kits installed by the dealer to fix the vapor lock issue. The insulation was just one part of this and may have become standard on later models. Dealer Modifications To The 1973 240-Z http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/73Mods.html http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1990&highlight=fuel+fixes

Oh come on Beandip, you gotta give it something for originality. I always loved the 911 Turbo Carerra and the rear end of the Primadonna kinda looks like it was modeled after that. Yes it's not original, but it does look pretty damn sweet, IMHO.

Sounds like you have most of what you need for the front. Yes, there is a bearing that sits atop the front strut. I decided to replace mine while I had it apart. They don't cost all that much. The rear has a spacer instead of a bearing. It's made out of rubber and has probably disintegrated already so you may not even see one in there but it should be replaced as well. As far as I know the only shocks that come with boots are KYBs. I will be installing these same boots, which are available seperately on my Tokico struts. They are $12 each at RockAuto.com. Also, use the search feature on here. Most of this has been covered ad-nauseum.

I suggest checking to make sure the clutch is actually working properly before going out and replacing the tranny. it may be preventing you from shifting into the other gears. Perhaps this fluid actually came from your clutch slave cylinder or the hose attached to it? What color is the fluid? Does it smell really bad or not so bad. Tranny fluid is really stinky and brake/clutch fluid is not so bad. You can check the fluid level in the tranny by removing the fill bolt on the side of the tranny and sticking your finger in there. The level should be even with or just below the opening. You can check your clutch fluid at the resevoir in the engine compartment.

I am nearing the completion of stripping and re-painting all of the suspension components and was wondering if I should go ahead and replace the rear bearings while I have the rear strut removed. I have not disassembled the rear axle assy. The car has 78K original miles and the front bearings look almost new. My dilemma is that I have already re-painted the rear strut and I don't want some machine shop guy hosing my new paint job if it isn't necessary.

Welcome to the board. Restoration can definintely be an enjoyable and rewarding process if you take your time and plan it out in advance. Will you be doing any of the work yourself?

BTW, the A/C system in my car is non-functional and missing the compressor and condenser. I don't need it where I live anyway so I have removed the rec/dryer and will probably remove the evap at some point in the future to give the passenger some more leg room.

Here's some pics of what I believe to be a Nissan Distributor(not a dealer) installed AC system in my '73 240Z. Also, I have a '73 owner's manual which references 240Zs w/AC in tables for vehicle stopping distance, recommended tire size/inflation, and aceleration and passing ability. AC Controls Receiver/Dryer You can see this on the passenger side firewall. http://jaderunner.com/Auto/240Z/images/Purchase/034.JPG Evaporator http://jaderunner.com/Auto/240Z/images/Evaluation/IMG_3574.JPG http://jaderunner.com/Auto/240Z/images/Evaluation/IMG_3576.JPG

The mosh pit eats another set of keys. Bummer.

Man, I wish I could afford this right now. Any chance you'll still be making them in a couple months?

In that case, I sincerely hope you never find one.

Well, I'm single now and fairly happy with the way thing are right now, although I wouldn't mind having someone to share my life with besides my son. He's really the center of my life right now. My problem is that I'm so comfortable with the way thing are at this point that any woman would have to be a very special for me to consider changing my current style of living, but I'm certainly open to it. Now, if I could just find an honest, sane, reliable and decent woman interested in automobiles, computers and the outdoors I'd be in heaven. The biggest problem has been the honest/sane/reliable part. I must be looking in all the wrong places.

Not sure if you're storing an engine complete with carbs, but another thing to do is to block off or remove the fuel line prior to engine removal and run the engine until it runs out of gas. You don't want that old gas gumming up your carbs while it's in storage. If you have the older type float bowl with a drain screw, you can always empty them that way, but I'd still run it out of gas to make sure the passageways in the carbs are clear as well.

You know, I once had a GF do a search on one of the forums I frequented, and she didn't like what she found. Nothing offensive in my mind, but she felt different. Apparently talking about your significant other, unless you have nothing but rosy things to say, with a bunch of guys you don't really know all that well is a serious offense/insult. So be careful what you post, it may come back to haunt you.

Where's the link?

Here's a couple of images to help you out. The first shows the tie rod end and the lock nut you'll need to loosen to make the adjustment. The second explains how to determine the toe setting. While on the ground under it's own weigh, place marks on centerline of the front tire, both the forward and rearward facing portion of the tread. Then use a broom stick or something else you can make a mark on to measure the distance between the marks and do the math.

Welcome Jani. There plenty of info here on the ZX. I'm sure you'll find the board useful. Nice lookin ZX btw.

This might also explain why going in reverse is so loud.

I guess I missed that one. Thanks for the pointer. The other 4 threads that reference the N33 head specifically are completely devoid of any useful information.

I didn't know there was ever an N33 head, only an N33 manifold. I've heard of an E30, E31, E88, N42, N47, P79, P90 and P90a. You sure you got your facts/wording straight?

Are you sure it was smoke coming out of the breather? Could it have been steam?

Looks great Doug. Are those the ones from MSA?