=Enigma=

If you are looking for a permanent fix, you might consoder finding a junker and cutting out that section, then welding it on your vehicle.

Ok gents. I've added the overall wiring harness pic and posted the document on my web server. http://www.jaderunner.com/Auto/240Z/Docs/daves_harness.doc Dave, it might make sense to edit your original post and add in this URL for convenience before we get too many references to this file going in this thread.

Did anybody else notice the odd way the door opens? Looks like it pivots out rather than simply swinging on a single hinge.

Unfortunately it doesn't seem to be as smart as the Google maps or cover as much territory. However, I'm sure that will improve with time. Once again, I've gotta give the Pirate of the Year award to Microsoft. When are they going to come up with a innovative new idea of their own?

Go here and do a comparison. Perhaps you can find a part nunmber and compare it to yours. http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/carburetors

My guess is that almost everything is interchangeable, with some exceptions like the dash area and associated components, brake lines, steering linkage and rack. Anything else come to mind? But what do I know. Nissan part numbers would probably help out there.

Sorry I missed that one. I love that show. It looks like they do most of their filming here in the SF Bay Area. Mostly East Bay it seems. They must be in the Berkely or Alameda area.

Hey, stop e-mailing me!

Three words: Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

I can handle the elbow grease part, the problem is more along the lines of needing an enclosed space, a rotisserie, engine puller, engine stand, large compressor, sandblasing gear, and painting equipment. I'm just not gonna even try it with only jackstands and a carport. Good thing this is more of a want than a need for me.

I am sorry but bonnets and boots are items of clothing and I have neither on my Z.:cheeky:

Wow Jack that looks amazing. Nice job. I wish I had the resources to do the whole bottom of the car like that. I guess I'll just have to settle on the suspension components.

Seems to me he would have had a car before then. How old is he now anyway?

According to antoher post the linkage arm should just lift out of the handle. Perhaps there's a C-clip or something holding it together? Do you have one of those little mirror on a stick thingys?

I normally don't like those type of rims much either but I think they look great on there. Perhaps it the white that makes it work. Love the seats. Was it hard to find a color match for the leather/pleather?

I started out with this idea on mind as well but as soon as I saw how much work stripping the components was I decided I would do a complete job of refinishing them. After spending a couple days stripping parts, I decided my time was worth more than the $$$ it would cost to take it to a media blaster so that's what I did. I paid $140 to have the two rear transverse links, transverse link crossmember, crossmember braces, rear struts and front calipers blasted. If I had to do it again I would have taken in the front transverse links and front struts as well for another $40-60. It's not cheap but the results are better than I could have done with the equipment at my disposal. I still need to get the diff mount, diff, and front crossmember done. My guess is that that will cost me another $80.

Congrats rick! I'm sure it feels good to have it finished and be able to enjoy it. Now if it would just quit raining here in N Cali, I could fininsh my current project too.

Ah, I stand corrected.

Good luck with your project. Damn those are some nice looking rims. And actually I think MOST of use are in the US but we do have quite a few members from around the world and a fair amount from down under.

Ditto on the sentiment and bottoms up to all!

AOL is a malcontent's paradise. It's nice that AOL is providing all these new tool to help thwart spammers, hijackers, and malicious content, unfortunately most of the ppl on AOL don't know what to do when the tools alert them or when something is actually a false positive. The only way to resolve this is to edumacate yourself on how malware works, how it propogates itself, and how to get rid of it. Start by looking at the help files and tutors provided with the tools themselves. Beyond that here's a good place to start: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0764575910/qid=1136063324/sr=8-14/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i14_xgl14/104-4979063-7608758?n=507846&s=books&v=glance

Life is too short to sweat the small stuff. So don't.

If I lived in New England and had to make a choice between the two, I'd probably go with the IH Scout. However, I hear parts are even harder to come by than for the Z.

When removing the diff on my '73, I noticed that the strap was not inline with the area it should obviously be lined up with on the diff. The strap actually rubs against the rear edge of the front diff bolt housing. In other words, the strap is actually bent to the rear in order to sit in the intended groove. I guess they moved the diff back but left he strap in the original position. I wonder if I can move it back. guess I'll find out when it's time to put it back in.

Seems to me you could just as easily make a roller that mounted to the same points as the rotisserie(bumper mounts) rather than the wheel hubs. This would also allow for removal of the suspension components. If I ever need to do this I think I might just go that route. With the solid body and paint I have, I doubt that's going to be any time soon.