=Enigma=

It doesn't look like anything that was ever released in the US. If it was, it must have been available in very limited numbers or simply never caught on. Google is your friend. http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/3823/ute.html

Do the Tokico springs lower the 240Z? I'm thinking of getting a kit that includes the Tokico HPs and springs for $349. Is that a reasonable price for both the springs and shocks?

I think there may be a set of very early SU carbs on eBay with the round float bowl covers. Didn't these come on the 69-70 cars? It's hard to tell from the pictures but I thought I'd post a link here in case anyone is looking. eBay Item #4583649272

Good to have you back. I hope your road to recovery is paved with success and good luck with your project.

Maybe? :paranoid:

Looks nice. Is it a requirement to move the Datsun logo to make it work? Not sure I'd wanna do that.

It's purty. I think you should go with the clear coat now.

Welcome Andrew. Alfadog, don't be a hater. You know you're just jealous.

Looking good man. It looks like your nose bar is bend downward a bit, or is that an illusion?

Welcome! I'm fairly new myself and I've got a broken or stuck clock as well. I haven't searched for a solution yet because when I'm driving the Z, I don't care what time it is.

Neat idea, I'm in.

I seem to remember the 510 coming stock in that color, or something close to it. It's been a long time but it looks familiar. Perhaps Google can provide some help. I'm sure there are plenty of 510 sites out there.

Congrats there bud. Hopefully your swap will go as smoothly once you decide to take it on.

Thanks nwcubsman, I'll give the stealership a call in the morning. I was hoping to establish a relationship with the parts guys there soon anyway. Hopefully at least one of them knows somehting about the Z.

bump bump bump

I guess he wanted to make sure we all saw it. Each is in a different forum.

I have developed a fuel leak at the union fitting on the float bowl after checking the filter in there. I have torn it down a second time to see if I could clean the mating surfaces and make it work, but it didn't. The surfaces looked OK but it still leaks after re-assembly. I am afrait to tighten it any more for fear of breaking the float bowl cover fitting. I guess I need new aluminum washers. Are they fairly standard or am I going to have a hard time finding them?

Well that just sucks. This sounds like a very poor design to me. Guess that's one thing that's gonna have to come off now. That new elec fuel pump is sounding better and better all the time.

Nice effort. I'm sure not everyone would know instinctually where and how to pour the stuff in and feel confident about it. Sorry montoya_fan, not everyone is as dim....er..I meant to say as bright as you.

The junk yards around here suck. I have never found anything that I wanted and have come to the conclusion that it is easier to buy what I need new if it is available. My time is infinitely more valuable than the difference in cost in most cases. The pump I referenced was used on 1980-85 carburated 720 pickups. It looks identical to the stock pump I have now. I was hoping someone else had tried it out already. I guess I'll be the guinnea pig if and when it becomes necessary, or I get tired noise the one I have now makes.

If I recall correctly from memory, the pump on my 73' has only two wires. One for power and one for ground. I don't see a reason for a 3rd. Must be for something else an not related but don't take my newbie word for it.

Does anyone know if the electric fuel pump off of a 80-85 Nissan 720 Pickup can be used as a replacement for the early 240 electric pumps, specifically a 73'. They both look the same to me and the cost is more than reasonable. See linky below. Nissan 720 Pickup Fuel Pump

Nice job. And it's my favorite color. I wonder why he chose to start with such a piece of crap. There must be some sentimental value in it to do all that work. I would have crushed it.

No. the bogging/misfiring was a bad plug wire. I replaced them all with a new set that came with the car. I'm looking into replacing the coil because it is very old and has a wierd screw in top that holds the connector against a screw post in the terminal. The screw cap is brittle and cracking and I'm not sure I'm getting the kind of connectivity I'd like. I've never seen one like this before. I'll get a pic when I get a chance.

Ok, no more missing/bogging. Turns out I had a bad plug wire. I got a new set with the purchase of the car so I swapped them for the old and voila! I didn't figure out which one was bad and I don't really care. I also replaced the filter in the engine compartment and all the fuel lines except for the ones between the folat bowl and the base of the carb. It is running much better and will actually rev past 4k now. The next step is to ditch the P.O.S coil that's in there, replace the fuel hoses on the base of the carbs and the ones near the fuel tank, as well as cleaning out the fuel pump filter. Also, the fuel pump makes a loud tap tap tap tap tap when I turn on the key. It quiets down a bit after 30sec or so but continues on like that indefinitely. Is this normal? Should I be able to see some air near the top of the fuel filter in the engine compartment or should the pressure keep it completely full. I would think it should be totally full since the pickup is near the top. Comments?