=Enigma=

If it's just calcium or other mineral deposits vinegar and water will do the trick. Start with a 50/50 mixture and move towards 100% vinegar. I tried several bathroom cleaners including CLR on a glass shower door and the only thing that worked was vinegar. If we're talking about cleaning the inside of the window where the defrost strips are I would proceed with extreme caution regardless of what solution you are using.

The 8910 tach adapter seems to work fine if you're using the white wire to trigger the MSD rather than the violet and green magnetic trigger wires. I haven't tried the latter yet. Since I still have the E12-80 in place as the acting ignition module, I'm using the white wire. Once removed, I may have to go with the 8920, but for now the tach works just fine.

According to the diagram in the E-Fast system, the return is on the drivers side, and the supply line is on the passenger side. See attached nothing the description of part #15 in the text in the field at the bottom. Part#16 is named "Hose-Fuel FT to strainer".

Funny, three of my favorite hobbies are the Z, CZCC, and COD4 as well, although I haven't played the latter since I bought my house. Not because I don't have the time, I think it's a guilt thing like I should be doing something more productive....

Nice pics. It looks like Mr K was having a great time. That's just awesome. Perhaps I'll be lucky enough to meet him one day myself.

Perhaps something in here will help. This was a thread I started when converting my 73 to a 280ZX dizzy and MSD 6AL w/tach adapter. At some point I plan on eliminating the E12-80 based on Jon's recommendations. Here's a link to a thread with a description of how I wired things up. Check out post #7 for details. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21256

Welcome to the site. There's lots to see and learn here if you're serious about being a Datsun Z owner. Mitchell gave some excellent advice. Take your time and learn all that the site has to offer regarding what to look for and look out for when buying, refreshing or restoring a 30+ year old Z car. Money spent up front will save you a lot more in the long run. When you're ready, don't discount buying a car from outside your immediate area. Oftentimes you can get a better deal elsewhere for a car in better condition and the money spent on auto transport is well justified when compared to the expense of paying for welding and/or extensive body work.

Note that it is not necessary to remove the interior panel on the 240Z to get to the filler neck clamp. This can be easily accessed by removing a small plate at the rear of the wheel well, assuming this plate is still in place.

Perhaps you should just measure it? That's what I did for mine when ordering the bushings for it.

Thank you Ron, this is exactly why I included cars owned by famous ppl. I could care less about these cars unless personalized for or raced by a celeb, but much of the public is interested. Remember that a museum typically caters the general public, so If you don't include what the people want to see, your museum will be empty and end up as a private collection.

I voted for Zs with an established racing history, Zs that are strictly stock, and Zs that are/were owned by famous people. What I didn't see was highly modified Zs. Basically, I would display anything that was exceptional, rare, or creative without being an eyesore like the amateur art cars roaming around here in Santa Cruz.

Note that the longest brake line on the rear is actually on the drivers side so this one should be bled first. Based on this, the bleed order should be LR, RR, RF, LF.

Ahhh, a Sharks fan. Very cool.

Note that the back would also sustain some compression when braking in reverse, but this insignificant as compared to the compression on the front during braking. Poly in front with rubber in the rear is a good compromise and should eliminate much of the risk of rod breakage while helping to reduce front end squirm under breaking. I think I'll make the swap now too.

Very nice. I love two tone black on blue. The silver, not so much. Great choice of rims and the side vent looks great too. Keep up the good work.

Hi Krista, welcome to the site. I"m sure you'll find that there is a lot of very helpful information and people on this board, however you may find that most of the content is focused on the 70-78 Z cars. That said, there is some content here, and anything you can add to the forum on the ZX will be a benefit for others in the future.

Very nice work again. How many hours of labor did you spend on this?

I'm glad to hear you got it worked out. The two extra bolts should have been your first clue.

I may be possible to allow the upper shaft to slip down enough when removing the coupler so that it is allowed to rotate without rotating the steering wheel. I could be wrong on this but I can't think of any other way for this to happen. Try disconnecting the upper shaft bolts from the coupler and have someone hold the steering wheel at center. Then, making sure that the wheels are pointed straight ahead, try pulling the upper shaft out far enough so that you can rotate it to line up in the correct position.

I Was talking about the floats themselves, not the float bowls. Sounds like you've already tried a different set of floats. Note that the the static fuel level is due to gravity. The level in the bowl should be equal to the level in the fuel nozzle. Kinda hard to defy gravity so something is definitely wrong. I wonder if someone swapped in a set of float bowls from another model SU? Perhaps some good pics of the carbs are in order at this point. Top, front, side, whatever you can get without having to remove them again.

The 240, 260 and 280 are all based on the S30 chassis design. There are subtle changes but most of the basics are the same. The 280Z engine is fuel injected so hopefully they at least cover that portion in some detail. You'll definitely want a FSM (factory service manual). You can them find on eBay, or download an electronic copy from a few sources.

Man I really love the hybrid 510/240Z hood. Very unique. Why did you ditch it?

If the float has a leak in it , wouldn't that cause the float to ride lower in the bowl and thus lower the overall fuel level? Are these things hollow? If not, maybe the floats are soaking up fuel and ending up heavier than normal. Do you have a spare set of floats you can try? Also are you seeing the same thing in both carbs? Just thinking out loud here. Bruce does this make any sense?

Nice work. However I'm left wondering if you ever verified that the body was "straight' based on factory measurements. Perhaps it wasn't just the brackets that were tweaked.

Whos' to say when "back in the day was". Did he say the had the car in 71 or simply that it WAS a 71 model? It could have been 1975 or later with a 280Z FI engine swapped into a 1971 car, or another powerplant entirely. I guess it's all in how you interpret that one. $250,000......don't we all wish.