=Enigma=

With a stock 4 speed and a stock 3.36 rear end you should be at approx 59 mph @ 2700 rpm. It's possible that your speedo is reading incorrectly, it is after all quite old. Go here for a calculator. http://www.geocities.com/Z_design_studio/transmission.html MikeW, the 3.9 was not stock for the 240Z but is a common to the 280ZX and also a common upgrade for those swapping to the later NA 280ZX close ratio 5speed trans. The two are a perfect match.

Setting the car on the rear wheels without any lateral support for the struts doesn't sound like a good idea. You could damage the strut tower or the strut insulator. There is no good reason to do this and more then a half dozen not to..

Simply excellent work Richard. I'm glad you're seeing this through and haven't given up. I agree it's a shame to replace the nice shiny valve cover with the stock unpolished version, so why do it? There's nothing wrong with a little bling.

The chocks that came with my 4/73 did not collapse either.

man you really make quick work of this job. When you're done with this one and looking for the next, I have one here waiting for you...

You should be able to download a complete factory service manual over at www.xenons30.com. This should provide you with some helpful diagrams. There is also the Zcar microfiche CD available for purchase here to assist with part numbers and diagrams.

Serious bummer Junior. Sorry you had to let her go. Hopefully your departure from the world of Z ownership will be a temporary one. I wish you the best and hope to see you in the seat of a Z again soon.

A good start is to read the section on "Z Ownership" over on www.zhome.com. As far as the smog question, every state is different but generally you won't need to get it smogged until you're ready to put it on the road. Another thing you can do it post your location and ask for some help inspecting it. Many times a local from the board will be willing to come out and help you with the inspection. There's nothing better than an experienced Z nut to help identify areas of concerns.

Hey there and welcome back to the fray. Lots of great info here on the board. If you can't find what you're looking for with the search feature, feel free to ask away. Good luck with your new project.

Welcome to CZCC. I find craigslist and junkyards to be a good source if you're looking to save some cash, however the latter might not be so fruitful back east due to the rust monster. You should also try the classified section here on the board and over at hybridz.org. There are also other options such as fiberglass replacements at www.zcarparts.com, stainless on eBay, and other online sites that offer used stuff such as zbarn.com or rodsdatsun.com. Good luck in your search.

Wow, that's a sure way to get some more silence... Alienating those who you're seeking help from is not going to help your cause or your standing on this board, however you seem to be answering your own questions anyway. Keep up the good work. :stupid:

Good luck with that. The best way to match this is going to be to locate a new looking set and take it in for a computer color match.

Funny stuff Lonny and nice way to remember the order. Sadly, 24 is also too young for me at this point.

Nice! If I needed a set I would definitely take you up on this one. It was nice meting you and your car last week. Thanks for the goodies.

Nobody mentioned rust yet so I will. These cars are prone to rust so you should check it over thoroughly. Do a search for rust on the forum here and you will see lots of threads containing information on where to check. I will just say that the front frame rails are the biggest concern.

Congrats! That's a beautiful car and looks to be in great condition. Regardless of the accuracy of the original ad or the story behind it, it's yours now. Enjoy it!

The nut is an all steel self locking nut - Part# 79-201 @ blackdragonauto.com for $1.65. Page 88-89

Dave got it right. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24482

Looks great. Now stop teasing us and post some more pics!

Well since it's a ground wire you can connect it to any good ground on the body. I think I attached this to one of the screws on the coil bracket.

I'm gonna have to say 1/3 since there are only 2 transverse link bushings vs. 4 in the rear. However you'll have to deal with the tapered fit of the front ball joint and end links which can be a pain without the right tools, especially when the rust monster has visited.

Must be that flamboyant color or the fact that it's probably one of the sexiest cars in the PNW.

Been there, done that. Fortunately I only went ape on one side and was still able to use beandip's puller on the other. It was silly how easy this was with the right tool. Man I love tools, and I don't mean the BFH although that can be fun too. Good luck with the machine shop.

Bottom line is to get it resolved ASAP. The effects of carbon monoxide poisoning are exremely serious, cumulative, can be extremely dehabilitating and in some cases long lasting.

Houston, I see you also left a visitor message in my profile. Andy pretty much hit this one on the head. There are a few things that can lead to this but when we hear the word "cluck" used to describe a noise in the rear on acceleration, we generally think of the front diff mount isolator. This is a rubber mount much like a motor mount and prone to failure due to age or abuse from quick launches etc. These mounts run around $45-50 and are available from several sources such as www.courtesyparts.com, www.blackdragonauto.com, www.nissanparts.cc, ebay, etc.