=Enigma=

I have a used set of aluminum drums I picked up during a recent visit to the local pick-n-pull that appear to be within tolerance. They came attached to a complete struts assys I bought just for the 280z stub axles. I'm only looking to recoup the cost of the parts. PM me if you're interested and I'll figure out what it would cost to ship them to Germany along with any other costs if you want them professoinally spec'd/turned before being shipped.

I got both Fast and E-Fast to run by right clicking on the shortcut and running it as an Administrator. Funny, I thought I was logged in as an admin.

Time to replace that old 80386 and 14.4.......nerds will get it.

I believe the strut housing is normally cut down and a threaded portion supplied with coil-over kits is welded in place. Some more searching should get you some answers.

That's very interesting James. Thanks for that. I wonder if all Zs have this? was planning on drilling a hole down from the top of the frame rail there to insert a sleeve/bolt that would tie that mounting point into a diagonal stiffening bar leading to the strut tower like that of thje PDK strut bar combo.

Hey welcome to the site. Getting old sure is a bitch. My problem is not wanting to get up once I lay down. Perhaps a heated floor is in order?

Mike, I just picked up a full rear suspension from a 77' 280Z for an R200 swap, and don't need the transverse link member mounting brackets. If you still need them PM me and I'll send them to you for my cost plus shipping. .

That sounds like a dangerous experiment frought with danger for someone who doesn't know exactly what they're doing. :paranoid:

Yes, after years of counting dome screws, Bruce has lost the abilty to recognize any numbers besides 3 or 4. .

Based on these clues, I've gotta go with OEM headlight covers and trim.

Spelling an poor grammar bother me too, in fact it's one of my biggest pet peeves. However in this case it's obvious that John simply doesn't have a firm grasp on either of these things for whatever reason, but it's really not our place to judge him IMHO. If it bothers you, just move on to another thread and be glad you made the most of your educational opportunities. Not everyone can so don't make any assumptions. Note that I'm not targeting my comments at anyone in particular, I'm just pointing out that there are other ways to look at this and handle it.

Vehicles 1975 or older are exempt from smog inspection, but I' m not certain how this applies to vehicles never registered in CA, or those designed only to meet 49 state (not CA) emission standards. I highly recommend contacing the DMV to clear this up before making any out of state purchase. What You Need to Know Before Buying a Vehicle from Out-of-State http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr29.htm Smog Information http://dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm#BM2536

Bummer man. I feel for you. Selling the Z had to be a hard desision. Hopefully you'll find something soon and can keep her.

Congrats on your purchase and getting it home safely. As Carl said, it looks to be in pretty good shape over all so you're way ahead of the game already. I don't imagine there are too many Z cars in Germany. I'm curious how you learned about the 240Z, why it peaked your interest enought to buy one from over seas without ever seeing one in person, what your plan are for the car, and what your first drive impressions are, even if it's in need of a tune up.

Damn, I wish the event was closer. Sounds like lots of fun.

I get up that way from time to time but don't have anything planned for this week. If that changes or I can schedule something up there (75 mi north) in the next week or so I'll be sure to let you know.

The wheel wobble could be a number of things. I'd start out making sure all the lug nuts are snug, check and adjust the preload on the wheel bearings, check for slop in the ball joints and tie rod ends, inspect the tires for out of roundness or bulges, check for wheel damage, check for slop in the steering rack, rotor warpage, and get the wheels balanced. Due to the age of these cars, it's generally a combination of one or more of these things so hit em one by one until the wobble is gone.

No wonder you have so few posts on the board. Who would have time for such trivial things as the Internet and forums with all those toys. Nice collection. Thanks for sharing. I'd love to see some high res video or pics some time.

That is ridiculously cool. I'm amazed at both the price and size of the scanner, and incredibly amazed that the "printer" can out complex moving parts like that working steam engine replica and what appeared to be a pre-assembled diff.

Hey John, welcome to the site. So.....you have a head from a 72 240Z, and you're looking to trade that for some interior parts? Is that right? First question is, what's type of head is it really. It may not be the original one. There's a number stamped on the right side between the #1 & #2 spark plugs. And what's the number stamped on the intake? What year is the car that you're looking for parts for? Note that providing this info may get you a few more hits. Finally, I believe you can use a blower motor from a Honda Civic. Use the search feature on the site to get the answers you need. Most of them have been covered at some point or another. If you still can't find the answer, post for help. Cheers,

Hey there and welcome to the forum. That's a nice looking Z you have there. By the sounds of it I'm guessing you've already done quite a bit of research on the site. I don't have any B.C. recommendations for you but I'm sure someone will pipe in. We've got quite a few members in the PNW.

Frrame sliders........ I think you should just leave em on and drop that thing on top of an old 4x4 Ranger frame since you're a Ford fan. At least when it's Found On Road Dead it won't be a surprise. :devious: . .

Welcome to the CZC and congrats on your find. You definitely came to the right place. Lots of good info here. Feel free to ask questions if you need help, but be sure to use the search feature first since just about everything has been covered at least one already. Now let's see some pics!

Funny, they linked all of the mini pics on their site to the same JPG. I was able to get to them the same way you were presumably. Here's some direct links. The carb linkage, emission devices, fuel rail, repair light, oil pressure sensor, coolant junction tube, hood latch and crank pulley are definitely painted gold. Look at the MC caps for a comparison and note the painted over screws on one of the emission devices(don't know the name). The valve cover is painted as well and it looks like they may have painted it in place. Check the valve cover screws and the engine hoist bracket. It also appears that the fenders were mounted when painted. I assume this is not standard practive for full restoration. The interior looks great with new seat covers and new carpets, but I can't tell if that's a full dash cap or the original. It definitely didn't discolor at the same rate as the glovbox if it is. Are those paint chips on the edge of the hood, paint runs or a little of both? I'd love to see pics of the undercarriage. This is looking more and more like a dress up job to me, making it even more difficult to gauge a proper price. I bet we see this posted again at lower price in a few months unless someone gets suckered..... http://www.checkeredflagclassics.com/uploads/71_1.JPG http://www.checkeredflagclassics.com/uploads/71_2.JPG http://www.checkeredflagclassics.com/uploads/71_3.JPG http://www.checkeredflagclassics.com/uploads/71_4.JPG

That's great to hear. Hopefully the insurance company will be willing to pay for a quality job and not hobble the efforts of the body shop in doing the job right. At least you are working with someone who appreciates the Z. I feel for you man. I'm not sure what I would do to someone who rear ended me due to their own negligence. Tailgaters regularly bring me ot the brink of sanity. :mad: