=Enigma=

That's not going to help and could even hurt performance depending on the engine size and the size of the existing exhaust piping. Somehow I don;t think having the bumper in place makes all that much difference in the equation anyway. Someone please correct me if that assumption is incorrect. I think addressing the leaks, extending the pipe, or adding a spoiler are the only real solutions here.

I found the following article on interior refinishing by searching on Google. http://www.rangerpowersports.com/tech/?p=119 You could also look for some upholstery dye. A good upholstery shop that also retails products should carry this sort of thing. Hard to say what the color choice might be....

I tried ordering one from them several weeks ago and it was out of stock or NLA. Looking at their latest catalog, there is no listing for anything between 7/71-74. Let me know if you find a source. I'll do the same.

That a very interesting hood modification. Looks like it has been extended down to fill the gap between the original hood line and the bumper. I can't quite see what was done below but this may have been an attempt to address the airflow issues up front.

Good luck with that. I saw an add with a few misc butterscotch interior panels on craigslist a while back but don't see the add anymore. I'm looking for the rear most left and right panels to replace the ones the PO butchered to add speakers. Let me know if you come across anything. I'll do the same. I don't need the parts ou are looking for so I"ll let you know if I run across anything interesting.

Check all fasteners and bushings associated with the diff (front diff mount, moustache bar), transverse link, and half-shafts. Odds are you have a bad diff mount isolator or moustach bar bushings, but it could also be a bad u-joint. tha only way to know for sure is to check them all. Look for rust around the end caps on the u-joints. If you find some, replace the joint. There a lots of threads on this topic so do a search on "clunk" or "thump".

Looking good man. You didn't waste any time ripping into her. Man that firewall issue is an ugly one. I suggest you get that purty steering wheel out of there before it gets fracked up.

Nice breakdown there Carl. That was about what I ended up with doing my "by the gut" estimation. Nice to see it backed up with some real figures.

Arne, it looks like those were poorly made or poorly mounted. Good move removing them. They didn't appear to stick out far or low enough to do any good anyway. Anyone know how that bumpy protective surface is applied on the rocker panels of newer cars. Is it painted on or is it an appliqué of some sort? And lastly, is it done before or after the car is painted?

I bet you knocked a wire loose somewhere. Probably the same resistor wire E referred to.

After looking at the paint damage done to my rocker panels and lower fenders after 30+ years of use and abuse I'm considering this as well. I really don't like them all that much but what other options are there? I do like the chrome ones better than the back ones I have seen. I'm torn at this point.

Not a bad price for a car in that condition, especially for someone who doesn't have the time, money or skills to get it there from a lesser example. I didn't see a mention of mileage or whether the engine has been rebuilt but that would certainly be a factor with respect to price in my mind.

Isn't that Wangan Midnight or something like that?

Whoops, I missed by avoiding a thread that had the "F" word in the title.

Sounds like the two bolts that hold the nose of the diff to the diff mount or "isolator" as it's called. See below.

Check out this possible Pierre's Z - "Z Store" refresh. No pics of the undercarriage but looking at the rest I would venture to say it would probably check out. Let's hear from the experts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320112203242 I'm not sure I'd buy any car on Lemmon Street.

Yeah that's a wierd one. I've never seen that either. Nice car overall but there are some oddities.

I bought my HPK251 set on eBay from jdmwerks13 $355: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160115089546 There another guy (motorsportsdirect) now with them for cheaper. $322.21: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330117985621 Neither of these guys list a refund/return policy so be sure to ask before buying.

240Zs are starting to get a bit pricey compared it's younger brothers. You would probably get more for your money if you focused on a 260Z or even better a 280Z. The lines of the body or "shell" nearly identical with only minor changes over the years such as larger bumpers, different tail lenses and turn lenses. For a few grand you should be able to find a 280Z that can be nursed back to reasonable health for another grand or so. Start watching the local papers and craigslist.com for your area and go to see a few cars but don't buy anything without a second opinion. There are members from the site in your area who I'm sure would be more than happy to go with you to a car you are serious about and lend some expert advice. Enjoy the site and good luck in your search.

Sweet! Did you buy a complete motor or just a short block? Care to share what that cost you? I'm considering buying one of his long blocks instead of building up the F54 I have. I figure it might be cheaper in the long run to go this route even though I'd miss out on the experience of building it myself.

I noted that you have two brake pad clips on one caliper. Based on recent research, it appears that only one is actually needed but two certainly can't hurt. At least I wouldn't think so. When I bought my S12W calipers, one case with two clips, and the other with only one. I went back to the store and had a look at the catalog and it only showed one mounted on each caliper. A second check online at a few sites confirmed this for me. In looking at the pics . . .

Note that those little plastic petcocks are fragile after so many years. I had to get a new one recently after it snapped off at the neck while trying to re-install it. To my surprise, I found a perfect replacement on a "Quick Fix" rack at my local Winchester Auto store for $2.95. I really didn't expect to find one in the right size short of going to the stealer and trying to find a similar one to fit. If I recall correctly it was M10 x 1.25. I should have bought two at the time to keep one as a spare.

It's the same with the 73. I was able to mount up the ZX MC without making any changes to the lines.

Note that it's the header and manifold that matters here, not the carbs.

By the time started gathering parts for the brake upgrade, I was so tired of cleaning parts that I just went and bought set of S12Ws for the front and a set of S13 calipers for the rear from the junkyard and used them as cores for freshly rebuilt ones. It cost me a bit more this way but time is money and I don't have a lot of free time, so it was worth it in the end.