=Enigma=

Keep the Corolla. Toyotas make great daily drivers. So do Hondas. I'm on my 6th or 7th Toyota and keep on upgrading. I haven't killed one yet. I tried Ford once and I'll never make that mistake again.

Sweet! Count me in. I hope to have the car re-assembled by then and ready to go. It's not going to win any shows as a slightly modded mostly original stocker, but I still wanna show it off.

Ok, I'm scared now and not looking forward to this. I tend to man-handle things unintentionally thinking "it's just about to come apart" and then WHAM! Something lets loose in a bad way....

I wouldn't mind having one of these myself. Sweet looking cars they are. I like the look of the 2004 version the best. They're definitely a bit pricey, even the used ones.

Close but not quite right. It was actually formulated in 1953 by a 3 man team at the Rocket Chemical Company in San Diego. It was then sold to aerospace industries for use on rockets and such to prevent corrosion due to the weather extremes found at many launch and storage facilities. Many of the employees at these facilities were taking the cans home for use around the house. As a result of this, some years later in 1958, the product was put into aerosol cans and made it's way onto store shelves. Until this time, it had only been available for industrial use.

Welcome to the forum. Sorry but I gotta ask, what's with the name DestroyingZ? We're all about preserving and restoring Zs here, not destroying them.

Sadly, I believe this is Surf's fault but I'm not sure what the law says. Learn to drive a cluth why don't ya! Just kidding

Your newbie like buffoonery is forever emblazoned in the minds and browser caches of the membership! jk

Dark here as well. Looks like a black or olive chromate treatment to me.

Yup, that would be the ballast resistor.

I think you will find that there are very few cars that still have these "flat-top" carbs on them. Most have long ago been converted to the earlier SU "round top" carbs. The flat-tops were introduced due to more stringent emission regulations being implemented in the US starting in 1973 I believe, and are generally not considered good performers. If you're going for strict originality, it may be possible to get them working but finding replacement parts may be difficult at best. It would be much easier to replace them with the earlier round-tops. Here's a good place to start researching these carbs: http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/SU/tunacan.html

I don't know about the paper, but have you see this tech article? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18108

I believe a rare few still remain. I run across them from time to time. I doubt even Carl would have had the patience to remove ALL of them.

Try the bushings first. If that doesn't work and you still have the original R180 3.36:1 diff and plan on keeping it, find a working 75-78 tranny and swap it out. If on the other hand you plan on changing to a later R200 diff, find an 81- 83 5spd donor and grab the R200 3.90:1 diff and tranny as a set.

Hey that thing was rebuilt in my back yard. I used to live in Scotts Valley. Now I'm going to have to find some time to stop by and ogle it.

Guys, if this is cyclical in nature and changes frequency with speed, it is not very likely to be any of the mounting points, but is more likely a half-shaft u-joint, wheel bearing, or even something in the diff. That being said, all of the the items mentioned so far should be checked anyway, however my money is on a bad u-joint at this point.

Welcome to the forums and congrats on your first post. We'll need a little more info before a diagnosis can be attempted. When does it happen, acceleration, decelleration, when you go over a bump, when you turn left, right, only in reverse, etc.? That said, the most common source of rear end "clunks" are either the front differential isolator, or your moustache bar bushings. In the future, I recommend using the forum search feature to see if the question has already been asked and addressed. Most aspects of this general topic have already been covered pretty well. Cheers, . . . Enjoy the site.

It looks like a 240 shell but what's with the 260 style brake lenses? Was this a feature of any of the BRE 240Zs?

That's a sweet looking little car. I don't remember ever seeing tail lights like those. Are those SSS type or something else?

I'm feelin' it!

Here's a few: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/engine.html http://zhome.com/rnt/3.1HanveyProject.htm http://zhome.com/rnt/3.1Cobb/3.1engine.htm

My 73 has an early 5spd and it doesn't look like any cutting was done from below. I can shift into all the gears just fine. As Will said, I'm pretty sure this is only an issue on the earlier years (70/71). I plan to swap that out for an 83 ZX tranny shortly and don't expect to do any cutting with that based on the research I've done online.

Yup, as indicated in post #4: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=214767&postcount=4

Disconnect the fan belt, find a smoker, bum a cigarette, light it and hold it near the suspected area. If there's a leak you will see the smoke gravitate towards that area. Works for me. Oh yeah, Aloha from Oahu!!!

For me it's knowing that I'm driving and preserving something special and not blending in with all the generic shapes of modern cars today. You guys are pretty cool as well. Hopefully I'll have a chance to meet some of you in person in the near future.