=Enigma=

Man those are nice Kobo! A little pricey, but nice. Now if I could just do the whole engine compartment (upper & lower rad, heater, master vac, breather and PCV) for $300 I would be all over these.

I read somewhere that with some mild cleanup in the bowl around the base of the valve seat on the P79 that it will flow as well as the N42 and may even perform better than an unmodified N42 due to the high quench chambers. I would think the same treatment would provide some extra performance in the N47 as well. Just hearsay I suppose but it makes a certain amount of sense to me and would be a lot cheaper than changing over flat tops and having to rework the chamber to avoid possible detonation issues. All this obviously depends on what you ultimate goal is for the motor as well as your budget and know how. Diseazd has some experience with the P79 heads so he may be able to chime in on his experience with the exhaust lined heads. Anyway, I guess this is really a thread on cam grinds anyway....

I didn't know you felt that way about trailer queens Arne. In my opinion, THAT is a total waste of a car. They were meant to be DRIVEN, no matter how rare or nice they are. This is something that Jay Leno understands and why I have so much respect for him as a car collector.

Yes, the rear of the diff bolts to the "moustache bar" or "rear diff member", and the front of the diff bolts to the "diff insulator" which is like a replaceable motor mount, and the diff insulator then bolts to the "front diff member". What probably needs replacing is the rear insulators or bushings. Odds are the front insulator either needs or will need replacing soon if it hasn't been replaced before. Here's a pic with all the names and such for a visual. Are those bullet holes in the passenger door?

The clunk is a vert common complaint and is most likely due to worn bushings in the rear diff mount, the front diff mount isolator, or a combination of the two.

That is friggin' hilarious!

Congrats. I'm loving the deep metallic blue. But as much as I love butterscotch interior, I'm not sure it will work with that color. Some sample shots will definitely be needed. If it doesn't work out, it should be fairly easy to go to black or maybe even a medium grey. A lighter color would definitely look cool.

From the sound of the dyno run, the real power was just coming in when they backed off. It's not even my car and that gave me goosebumps. I know jealousy is a terrible thing but....

I think Curtis is probably right. Is it shaped like this?

Nice work Dave. I wish you the best of luck and can't wait to see how it turns out.

I think people just get excited when they are asked to share pics of their pride and joy and miss the fine detail of the post. The poster hasn't complained yet so this is probably not such a big deal. As a bonus, we get to see some nice clean engine pics. Woohoo!

I had to visit my chiropractor for a few weeks after digging around under there to remove the A/C unit and route some new wiring for the taillight upgrade harness. Now I'm dreading putting it all back together and saving for another round of spinal manipulations and massages.

You could always remove the bars or convert to the pre-73 style bumpers with or without over-rider bars, or go with the clean look of the Euro style front bumper without holes for the bumperettes. I'm still debating on whether I want to remove mine or keep everything the way it is. Making this harder is a freshly plated pre-73 front bumper calling to me from a corner in the garage.

Nice one Stephan. I forgot all about this one. Much easier to read.

These reasons along with my desire to do some mods and leave the early cars for true to factory restos was the reason I targeted the 73' when looking for a car. That being said, had I found an earlier car as clean as the 73 I bought for a similar price, I would have scooped it up in a heartbeat.

They are commonly referred to as overrider bars or more affectionately, "towel bars", and were sold by companies like Amco and possibly others. I'm not sure if they were available as factory options, or merely dealer installed aftermarket parts. I suppose they could provide some additional protection since the Z sits so low, however I consider them to be merely cosmetic in nature. I have these on my car and you can view them in the following album. The rear ones are a little more elaborate on the 240-Z: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/album.php?albumid=108

If reliability for a car used primarily for commuiting is what you're looking for, a stroker is really not your best choice. My recommendation would be to keep it simple and upgrade your cam, ignition, exhaust, and either get your injectors professionally cleaned or replaced. Don't forget to R&R the other systems since it sounds like you'll be sparring with the Folgers punks. It would be a real shame to beat the other car between lights only to find that you can't stop in time for the next one, or even worse that you never make it because something else broke. Just my humble opinion.

It sounds like somebody could have easily leveraged the cookie exploit via a simple script to skew the results. Hopefully the admins at cardomain.com will perform a forensic review of the logs and determine if there was in fact any mischief. If so I hope they make it right, whatever the outcome is, and find a better voting polling solution for the future.

Viewing a wiring diagram for a 76, it appears that the red wire with the female connector leads to the ECU, and goes to the (-)NEG battery terminal. I suggest you double check this against a diagram for a 77 and optimally, trace the wire to verify where it goes to before making any connections.

No luck in the search of the FSM. Hopefully you have an MT and can just put it in gear to prevent the engine from turning over while you loosen the crank pullley bolt. If not, perhaps someone else will chime in with a procedure for holding things in place with an AT. The flywheel locking tool I was talking about looks something like this and bolts to either an open thread bore on the tranny bell housing, or in place of the starter depending on the design of the tool. The teeth on the tool engage with the teeth on the flywheel to prevent it from turning. This tool is also known as a ring gear stopper.

Putting an auto tranny into park WILL NOT "lock everything". If it did, how would you start the car? If you have an auto tranny, it may be necessary to follow the instructions provided in the manual to prevent the flywheel from turning, however, this may require a special tool. I'm not sure I'd simply wedge a piece of wood in there but it may be your only option. I'll check the manual and see what instructions you're referring to. Assuming you're looking at and FSM, can you provide a page reference to where the instructions are that you're looking at?

Neither a flywheel or clutch disc use any kind of fluid or oil. Normally leaking red fluid (ATF) comes from an auto transmission, but it's possible that gear oil in a manual tranny could be red in color. In any case, the fluid is likely coming from the front seal on the tranny.

yep, corrected

I believe there were only two special editions in the S30 series, the 1977 "280-ZZZap" and the 1978 280-Z Black Pearl Edition. More info here: http://www.zhome.com/Buying/BeckBuyerG.html

If that's the worst you've found, I think it's safe to say that you have one of the cleaner cars around. I'm not even sure that qualifies for "corrosion". It looks more like surface rust to me.