=Enigma=

It would be very surprising to me if all this work was required just to change a headlight. I'm betting it can be done from inside the wheel well. It's possible that there is a plastic wheel well lining, I can't remember from my last trip to the JY, but if there is, remove it to get to the rear of the light.

Ron, that's a nice looking wheel. I don't know anything about it but it looks to be in pretty good shape. What does the signature on it say? It looks like you are missing the turn signal cancel prongs on the adapter though.

It took me a while to find one too.

Wow! And only took you 27 months. I picked up Momo MonteCarlo wheel in Zebrano wood on eBay a while back. It was NOS from 1986 and came in the original box with the warranty card. See pic below. I don't have a pic of it mounted yet but I love the way it looks.

Nice! I'm glad you had your wits about you when looking at this car. Sounds like the guy wasn't being completely honest. Take your time and the right car will find you.

Since your 73 has already been converted to the older SUs ( a good thing) like mine, you'll want to find an air cleaner from an earlier car like the one in the pics below. I believe it came from 72 and was added when the PO converted from the crappy flat top Hitachis to the round top SUs. You should be able to find one in a JY. If not, I'm sure someone on here has a spare they will be willing to part with. . .

Congrats! Looks like you're gonna need to source some choke cables to get that thing started. They appear to be missing. Definitely make sure the brakes are in order before you get too excited and take that thing out for a spin.

Yes, I've heard the same thing, however these seem to be in good shape and provided enough resistance when re-installing so I'm not too worried about it. I ordered replacements anyway and intend to replace them with the new ones once they have been re-plated and finished in yellow chromate.

Well I'm getting very close to re-assembly time after refinishing all of the suspension parts and fasteners. Just a few more items to aquire to complete the suspension refresh/brake upgrade. Long story short; after paying someone to bead blast all my suspension parts and doing a nice job painting everything very carefully with a rattle can ($300 blasting, $~100 paint & supplies), I decided I wanted to go ahead and have it all stripped and powder coated. To my surprise, I was able to get it all bead blasted and powder coated for roughly the same ($375) cost as the original finishing job. Woohoo! And boy does it look great! I should have gone this route in the first place. Live and learn. The part clean-up was a bit harder with the powder coating, but definitely worth it in the end. The list of 36 parts that were plated for $375 are listed below. Was the latter a good deal or not? Also, I'm just about finished zinc plating the original fasteners with the factory yellow chromate finish, although I like the finish just a bit darker than the factory finsh. I knocked off the rust and corrosion using a wire wheel, and then put them all into a bath of hydrochloric acid to take them down to bare steel. The next step was the plating which was a real learning process. After a couple weeks of experimentation and two different rectifiers, I was finally able to come up with a repeatable process and formula that got me the finish I was looking for. I used the Copy Cad kit from Caswell for the zinc plating and the Yellow Chromate formula for the color. This is a very time consuming process. Unless you are simply interested in trying this for yourself out of curiosity, I recommend taking everything to a professional plater. Probably cheaper if time is $$$$ to you. That said, I'm still glad I did it myself. Looking at the finished product and knowing I did it myself is very satisfying. Pics below. The last items (that I'm aware of) I need to complete the brake upgrade are the front and rear disc brake conversion adapters and cross drilled rotors, but getting these items is proving to be a bit of challenge due to a possible communication problem. Anyone have Ross's telephone number? . . 2 - Front Transverse links 2 - Steering knuckles 2 - Front Strut Assy 2 - T/C Rods 2 - Front Hubs 1 - Front Crossmember 4 - Front Crossmember - special washers (upper/lower) 2 - Steering rack mtg brackets 1 - Steering rack mtg u-bolt & bracket 1 - Front Sway Bar 2 - Front sway bar reinforcing plates 4 - Front/Rear upper spring seats 2 - Rear transverse links 2 - Rear Strut Assy 2 - Rear Transverse Link Braces 1 - Rear Transverse Link Member 2 - Rear Transverse Link Mtg Brackets 1 - Differential Mtg Member 1 - Rear Sway Bar --------- $300 - Blast and coat - Good deal or not? . .

Congrats and welcome to the forum! Let us see some pics as soon as you have em. Lots of good stuff on rust repair here. I'd get to that ASAP before it turns cancerous. If it starting to show externally, there's more on the inside. Do a search on "rust repair" and "por15" or "por-15". Works great at stopping rust as well as preventing it for those of use lucky enough not to have any.

The cleaning of the #4 piston and combustion chamber pretty much give away that this is a problem of coolant leaking into the combustion chamber, as well as the "white smoke" (steam) . arse-u-ming it's not as simple as head gasket leak, my guess is a cracked head that's leaking into the intake runner on #4. It's hard to tell just from the pics, but looking at the coolant passages, there doesn't seem to be enough corrosion present to suggest a coolant passage break-through in the intake runner, but it's probably worth checking out as that usually be spotted and fixed fairly easily, unlike a cracked head.

Welcome back. You lost some of the "classic" in the Clasisic Zcar but in the end, it's still a Z so all is well.

Unless it's a series 1 240Z (70-71), you're not very likely to make any money on it unless you buy it extremely cheap, invest a few dollars to get it running, and turn around and sell it. The same might also be true of the series 1 depending on what it takes to get it going and the condition it's in when you start. Even then it's a crap shoot unless you know your Z's very well and find a rippin' deal. I suggest you either get out of it now, or keep it any enjoy it.

Thanks Tomo. When I first bought the external magnet mount antenna, I snipped off the PL259 connector and soldered on a BNC connector so that I could use it with both my handheld CB radio as well as my Uniden Scanner. I actually haven't used the antenna since I mounted the Cobra 18 WX ST II in-dash with the head unit in the daily driver (4runner) and permanently mounted a 4' Firestick antenna to the bull bar. Tastes great, less filling! . . . .

The rear diffuser is way too angular for a car that has such a rounded backside. I understand that the design stems from extensive testing and that a more rounded design might not perform to the same level, but I still don't like it.

Nice but not $12,500 nice.

I know what a Prado is. It's somewhat similar to a Toyota 4runner or what the Japanese call a Surf. In fact, I'm running Prado springs in the rear of my lifted 4runner to carry the extra weight of camping gear when I go off-roading. The Prado too small? I think not. But a nice attempt at a covert dig on the American taste for bigger things, but not accurate for the most part.

I used to think sunroofs were a bad thing until I got one myself.......Now all my vehicles have them. No leaks in any of them....ever. I guess when you live where it's sunny and 65-75 degrees most of the year, you learn to appreciate them a bit more. ;P Besides, chicks dig em'!

That paints a very funny picture in my mind. I've been there minus the heat, and did the same thing with the tranny. It's a bit heavier though and probably a lot more fun to watch. I'm glad nobody saw me.

Very nice job. Definitely one of the better converts I've seen. good on ya!

Hey I may be in the minority, but I bought my car to drive it and to enjoy it. I could care less about the resale value and I love my sunroof!!!!!!

Anyone notice what looks like the effects of cancerous rust on the outer rim of the left rear wheel well?

You can download the manual for it from the MSD website. It doesn't say much about the rev limiter that hadn't already been said. It's just as simple as replacing the module the the RPM limit you want. The item you pictured in your first post is actually the Tach Adapter needed to get many older tachs to work with the MSD ignition in place, but I'm assuming you know that by now. Here's a link to the manual: http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/6%20series/6series.pdf

1966 - Born in Chicago 1967 - Moved from Chicago to Monterey 1969 - Moved to Pacific Grove. Bored as a kid. Too foggy. 1984 - Moved out on my own to Monterey, drank too much 1989 - Moved back to Pacific Grove, good to in the hood again 1990 - Moved to Carmel Highlands, too remote but quiet and beautiful 1991 - Moved to Carmel Valley, still too remote but nice weather 1992 - Moved to Seaside, too many crackheads 1993 - Moved back to Monterey, apt too small 1994 - Moved to Marina, too many low lifes 1996 - Moved to Fort Ord, too windy and dusty 1998 - Moved to back to Marina, remember why I left 1999 - Moved to Felton, too cold in winter, too hot in summer, got flooded out 2001 - Moved to Scotts Valley, pretentious community, too hot in summer 2003 - Moved to Santa Cruz, so far so good. Nice ppl, great weather 2006 - Thought about moving to Sacramento, came to my senses

In that case, you'll need to figure out if the half shaft in there now has a flange or an side yoke assy. At some point in 74, the factory changed the half-shafts to include an side yoke assy that gets inserted into the diff to speed up the assy process. This allowed the line workers to simply insert the completed half-shaft with side yoke assy into the diff and attach it with a single bolt, rather than having to bolt the inner flange of the half-shaft to a matching flange on the diff with 4 nuts and washers. You can see the two types half-shaft ends in the attached picture. My guess is that you have the later type, but in either case, you should be able to use any half-shaft from a 240-280Z, but you'll only use the portion outside of the inner u-joint. You can just leave the side yoke bolted to the diff, or pull it out to make assy and re-attachment of the half-shaft a bit easier on yourself once you're done re-assembling it.