=Enigma=

A simple Google search revealed the following useful pages... http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ http://www.zhome.com/rnt/3.1HanveyProject.htm Based on all the possible ways a stroker build can go wrong, this is definitely not a project for the faint of heart or the newly initiated.

I choose to refrain from posting my score due to the humiliation that would undoubtedly ensue. Instead, I choose to suffer in the relative peace of a dark corner alone with my binky. :disappoin

Correction on the SEATZ URL. Should be www.seatzmfg.com

FYI, Summit offers a number of battery relocation kits, or just the boxes: I actually used this custom mount in the stock location to bolt down my Optima battery. Here's a pic of it installed and the paper template I created to figure out where to drill the mounting holes for it. I had to drill 3 new mounting holes in the aluminum base due to the configuration of the battery tray in the car. I also did a little grinding on one edge of the base near the wheel well hump to get it to fit snugly into the corner. I'm very happy with the results. You can see all the pics at the following URL: http://www.flickr.com/photos/techn0freq/sets/72157618972508410/ . . .

The engine number should be stamped on a flat area on the right hand side of the block near where the block and head meet. The engine number will also be stamped on an information plate in the engine compartment. On the 260Z I believe this will be on the left hand side somewhere near the washer fluid resevoir. If these number match yo uhave the original engine. The 240Z and 260Z came with either a factory 4 spd or an automatic so the 5 spd is almost certainly not original to your vehicle.

Looks good to me Arne. I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished product.

I really like the way the DATSUN version fills the width of the banner. My initial thought was that I would end up permanently mounting the 240-Z version on my existing car and save the DATSUN one for a future, perhaps non-240Z project, but now I'm not so sure...

Both the location and colors look right for fuel pump wiring.

My current understanding is that electric fuel pumps found on 1973 240Zs and 1974 260Zs were added as part of multi-option fix for vapor lock and percolation issues related to the Hitachi flat top carbs used on these cars. In other words, they did not come installed as stock equipment. This has been covered many times so I won't go into the details here but it's worth a search to learn more if you're interested. There's also a PDF of the modifications floating around here somewhere, but it can also be found on www.xenons30.com.

Merry Christmas to all my fellow Zheads! May Santa fill your stockings with NOS and hard to find parts.

Yeah but it's still a FORD...sorry.

At 13 years old I was only thinking about BMX and girls.

You got my vote. If I had the money and time I would love to build my own interpretation of what a modern 240Z would/should look like, and this comes pretty close to that for me. Not a big fan of the new splitter, although I'm sure it probably appeals to the Nas(t)car fans out there.

For me it's the vacuum hose from the booster check valve to the balance tube on the 73'. Reddat had one a while ago for $50 or $60 but I'm holding out for a cheaper aftermarket replacement which doesn't seem to exist... PM me if you know of a source. Mine is in good condition but hard as marble.

What's this listing for 114 Gold about? Looks like that should read 920. I have a 114 paint code but it's Metallic Brown and it would be a real stretch to call it anything but brown.

Welcome to the site. Would love to see some pics.

Considering the square peg thing, I vote for the G37. This is the reason I picked up a used, very low mileage 2002 BMW 525i w/Sport Package. Not much power, but enough to get me in trouble, 4 doors, nice ride, minimal investment, no payments, and acceptable for taking prospective customers out for lunch.

I definitely recommend a flatbed. I did this when I moved from one town to the next. The move was about 12 mi and $120 but well worth it for the peace of mind. I had to put things together in a hurry to get a rolling chassis and didn't want to test the brakes or get stuck halfway there. The tow guy was great and dropped it straight into the garage safe and sound. Definitely one of the best investments I've made in the car so far.

That's funny. If he had only started working on it......then to learn that the care is a rarity. Nice.

So what did you do with the second bag???....cough cough cough

Bizarre. What about block and oil temps? I would expect the block to be getting hotter than desired without proper circulation. Very strange. Do you live in the Twilight Zone or an alternate dimension?

Well now you went and ruined it Alan. I was all ready to accept the "Goose" nose name and you had to throw in the word "Grande". So now I have to go digging...I don't know which is the name given by the creators of the G-nose but "Goose" sounds more like a nick-name than something someone proud of the design would have assigned to it.

I guess that depends on where you live. Here in the Bay Area it's driving season all year round.

I'm going to venture a guess that it's not significantly more than some of the quotes we've already seen for dash resto.

I was thinking along the same lines as Jan. It's possible that the flow reduction is not allowing enough of the heated water to the temp sensor or into the radiator. In other words, you're only getting enough heated water to the rad to semi-heat the water that's already in there. The infrared temp sensor on the block is a good idea to make sure you're not getting areas of extreme heat in isolated areas which could lead to a cracked block, warped head and other nasties. I recommend a reverse flush using some kind of cleaning or loosening agent to break free any built up corrosion in the internal passages. Something like this must exist but I normally just reverse flush with plain water from a hose. The reverse flow will help break free any debris that has been wedged in.