=Enigma=

Ok, since we're all posting, here's my 73 in the bright sunlight with original paint.

The last time I checked, the best cure for a squeaky rear end was some Beano.

I wanna know which one of my Z brothers swooped me on the valve adjustment tools listed on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260071738508

That's the line that goes to the Flow Guide Valve which vents vapors from the evap tank into the engine. it's part of the emissions system and should be restored. Beandip said it best here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14415

I thought all the L24's were based on the P30 block. I learn something every day here. The N36 intake manifold from a 260Z is rumored to have bigger runners but I don't think anyone has ever proven or disproved any benefit. I bought one nontheless. Go here for more info: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/

Hey! What do you know about Salinas? I never even thought to look out there. Did you live out here in he past?

Never heard of him. Is this a recycling yard like Eric Nyerlin's place, www.zparts.com? Do you have a phone number or address?

Yes, I too was jonesing for my Z-fix.

This is exactly why I do all my own work unless I have absolutely no choice or any specialized tools are more then the repair. In my 40 years on this planet, I can honestly say that I have never paid anyone, ever, to do anything more than change the oil, tires, or balance the tires. Perhaps this is because I have always stuck with Toyotas, at least until now. Once I start building up my F54 motor I'll need to get some help.......those machine shop tools are probably going to be out of my budget.

I'm glad you did. I learned a few things which I might never have come across otherwise.

As far as I know there isn't anything like that in Santa Cruz proper. I believe there are a few places over the hill in the Bay Area but I haven't made my rounds to them yet. I don't have a lot of spare parts myself, only those that are earmarked for use in future conversions or additions. List what you need and I see if I can be of any help. I may be willing to part with something critical you need if I have it on hand and it can be easily replaced at a later date. Also, there are a few junk yards in Moss Landing just south of us, and I have found parts there from time to time. A few months ago there Pick & Pull had a 74' 260Z with an N42 based L28 and flat tops, a 240Z that was mostly a stripped shell and a lost cause, a 73' 240Z that was 80% complete with a clean shell and complete running gear minus the carbs, however rumor is that it was crushed....animals. There were also numerous 300ZX's from 84-89 and an 81 280ZX 2+2 I yanked the motor, tranny and diff from.

Quit Spamming The Forums!!!!! We See That You Are In Need Of Help!!!!!!!!

Welcome to the club Xavier. Nice to have another local aboard. Where are you in N Cali?

The key to successful, low stress bidding is bidding the most you are willing to pay the first time, using a sniper to place that bid for you, and forgetting about it until the auction ends one way or the other. Anything else is an ineffecient waste of money, time and energy. IMHO

What the heck were you doing, following a bottom loader full of pebbles?

nice job. I'm doing much the same thing you are. At the moment I am in the process of re-plating all the fasteners and preparing to get her put back together. It's taking much longer then anticipated due to work and weather. I have to work outside......

Welcome to the board. It's nice to see another local 73' owner on board.

Doesn't count if you paid for it yourself.

Keep in mind that this is not Z specific, but rather something I remember from auto shop or something I read, and that is that the the deflection at the longest span between pullies should be approximately 1/2" when 20lbs of force is applied. It's a game of estimates really.

I'm considering getting some Yokohama ES100 225/50/15's for my 15x7 Rewinds ad I'm curious if you had to roll your fenders to clear the tires under compression. Do you think your tires would come in contact with the fenders under full compression? Is your car lowered?

Nada! I thought I was gonna get a book or two, maybe a t-shirt, but nothing. So the better question is, what am I gonna get myself for a late Christmas gift........let's see......McGard Tuner Lugs/Locks, Yokohama ES100's, BRE rear spoiler, replacement heater hoses, PCV hose, Optima battery, K/N ait filter replacement, rear panel speaker box. Well that's my wish list at the moment anyway.

I know it may not be the best price, but www.blackdragonauto.com, formerly www.victoriabritish.com has the tinted version available at the link below. It's has a full tint with dark shading at the top. You may want ot call them and see who the MFG is. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/t10.html

Perhaps this should be in the classsifieds section?

Actually the tapered end of the ball joint is bolted to the steering arm, not pressed in. Once the steering arm is removed from the strut, you'll see a castelated nut. Remove this and give the end a firm whack with a hammer. That's all it took to get mine out. If I had planned on re-using them I would have used a brass hammer or drift to break it free. The hard joint to seperate is usually the connection between the tie rod end and the steering knuckle. This is where the tool you pictured may come in handy if you're looking to re-use it. If not, a pickle fork or the old kriol, hammer, heat and vise will do the trick.

If it's impossible to get the thing timed within the normal range of operation, something else must be wrong. How many miles do you have on the engine? Could this be a stretched timing chain guys?