=Enigma=

Second owner, New England, 32,000 original miles= no rust..... ROFL ROFL Stranger things have happened I suppose.

Hey! Thanks for the tip Mike.

Wouldn't media blasting with something like plastic bead or walnut shell clean off the corrosion without pitting the surface? I know nothing of these things.

Holy crap dude! I don't see any permanent damage from the tree at all. I believe all of your luck has been used up for the year. Congrats on the narrow escape from disaster.

Thanks for the correction Arne, and the emotion. You're right, this should always be the first step.

Clear coat those puppies and be done with it! That'll make it easier to get the brake dust off and you'll have the look you want.

643 total miles? That's nice but it's just wrong IMHO. These things were meant to be driven. Stick that thing in a museum. At least then there's a good excuse for that kind of treatment.

That is the activation button for the newbie discombobulation confuserator. It causes the activator(you) to become confused and disoriented, preventing further damage from being done to the car by sending you back inside for a nap. J.K. I have no idea what it could be. Perhaps a remote starter button, a kill switch, or a breaker switch for the battery?

Search here and Google. There is loads of info out there. Your basic starting point is to screw the mixture adjustment nuts on the base of the carb all the way in and then back them out 3 full turns (1080deg). Start the car. From there you screw them each in 1/2 a turn until the car dies. This all assumes that everything else is 100%, plugs, wires, valve adjustment, etc. Good luck. Do yourself a favor and do some more research on the net.

Welcome to the board Terry. I love the plated calipers. Did you do the plating yourself? If so, did you tape off the piston bore to keep it from getting plated, strip the plating off the bore later, or not worry about it at all? Do you plan to paint the front crossmember or leave it bare naked and plated? It looks nice but I would paint it anyway. Due to its position the more protection the better.

FYI, this guys on eBay has some pretty nice looking vents which can be used as an alternative to the stock hood vents. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-HOOD-VENTS-240-Z-280_W0QQitemZ230016947119QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33638QQtcZphotoQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

How much have you budgeted for the initial purchase and what are your plans for the car in the long term? Depending on the answer, this may be a decent purchase if you can get it for less than $3600. Unfortunately it looks like the auction will go over that as it's nearly there already and the Buy it Now price is fairly high. Assuming that the frame rails are not too bad it is probably safe to drive for now, but the rust will have to be eliminated or it soon won't be. The problem is that this is where the biggest cost will be. As indicated in previous posts, you can expect to pay $3000-$5000 for rust repairs and that doesn't include body work and paint. I bought mine from a seller on eBay after losing the auction as the high bidder due to a failure to meet the reserve. I then contacted the seller directly, went and saw the car, and negotiated a fair price which was $200 above my max bix on eBay. However, after seeing the car in person and having a chance to inspect is, I realized that this was a bargain and we both walked away happy. Be patient. The right one will come along.

Or maybe the Seafoam itself is causing the smoking at not the removal of carbon. Smoke and mirrors if you ask me.

Ok, that's just disgusting and wrong. I can imagine how much damage did all that acidic material did to the car. Hopefully you have gotten past the smell, the rust, and are fully recovered from therapy by now. At least yours was in storage when this happened. Twice now on Pimp my Ride I have seen mice and rats living in vehicles that are used on a daily basis. One was even used as an ice cream vending truck. I'm glad my kids weren't buying ice cream from that guy.

Chris brings up a good point. It might be worth it to you for a specific reason like it was your first car, your child was conceived in it, or perhaps its a very low number car that will one day be worth all that it would cost to bring her back to her former glory. However, if none of that is the case, I stand behind my original statement.

You're cracking me up. Not sure what I'd do if I had a girlfriend adddicted to Zs. I might have to throw a party or something and buy her a leather steering wheel wrap or a polished valve cover. Making up would be easy. "Honey, I got you that original fuse cover you were looking for."

Have you placed the battery on a charger in all this time you have been trying to start it? If not, and the clicking only happens when you are trying to crank the engine, I believe the sound you hear coming from under your dash may be your starter solenoid. It's not really under the dash but some without experience might think so. Not sure if you qualify or not at this point. Without enough juice to crank the engine, the solenoid will often chatter. If the TPS was replaced by a certified mechanic, I would focus elsewhere. There is a possibility that something was knocked loose after the fact so check any electrical connections on near or around the replaced TPS, and any other items that might have been removed to make it easier for the mechanic to work.

Looking good man. Love the flared look. That's the first time I've see a chrome rear finishing panel. Not sure that's what it's called. It might go better with a darker color body but the jury is still out on that. Can't wait to see the finished product.

If that's turns out to true, it would be the first and only cancer found on this car. I hope that's not the case. Everything else looks beautiful, aside from the stupic aaaoooogah horn that was in place of the right side horn when I got the car. That obscenity was the first thing I removed. Second was the cheesy Kragen amber fog lamps. If anyone has a spare right side horn for a 240Z I am in dire need for one.

That's one hell of a valve job there Steve.

Welcome to the forum Jeremy and congrats on your new ride. You definitely got a good one. I have been admiring that car for a while now.

It will definitely be worth more to someone who cares with the matching numbers. I would be willing to bet that the rust in the cylinders will come clean with a mild honing or most defintely if you bore it out. If it were me,knowing what little else I know about the original block, I would use the original and rebuild it using the good crank and rods. Hopefully someone who has been through this will chime in.

Unfortunately this is a crusher unless you are good with a welder, have several thousand dollars and 1000 hours to spare. Strip it and save what's worth saving then find another candidate to begin with.

If you're addressing my comment about the block of aluminum that's not it, and the chain is not connected to the "center rivet" which I believe to be a pressure relief valve. If you very look closely you can see that the chain is connected to a small bracket attached to the cap via one of the two silver rivets on either side of presssure relief valve as I will call it. The "aluminum block" I was referring to is something the PO added for some YTBD reason and can be seen mounted between the fuel filler tube flange and the body of the car.

My guess is excess resistance due to bad plug wires, excess corrosion of the primary or secondary terminals on the dizzy cap or the rotor, but it's just a guess. I had a similar problem on my 73' and it was the wires.