=Enigma=

JM, I believe in the end, 240zwinter picked up an 81' dizzy and used the E12-80 with that rather than the older dizzy. It might be difficult to get a good ground mounting the E12-80 on a dizzy not designed for it. The materials I have read seem to stress making sure of good contact between the rear of the module and the dizzy itself. But in the end, I can't say for sure. I'll defer to you "experts".

Alan, stop the "woe is me" crap. I found what you said to be very interesting and spot on topic. No need for the self deprecating remarks. Oh wait, I just blasted you too. jk Sorry mate.

Now that's more like it! I was worried after that last "wet" uhh.....do-not, that we're weren't gonna see you break it loose. Glad to see you came to your senses

Ok, Dave. I finally have the budget for this so start making up one of each for me. Check your PMs.

Well that just sucks. I know what you must be going through. He looks just like the first dog I ever had. His name was Noogie which is foot or boot in Russian. My dad named him that because he was always under foot. Take heart in the fact that you both had the pleasure of each others company and that he will be going on the doggy heaven.

Congrats on getting it started, and getting such an early start with a Z. I had my eye on my grandmothers 68' Pontiac Tempest Le Mans at your age.

Here's a diagram for a 75-78. See attached.

I'm looking to first insure that my Z is mechanically sound and in 100% complete working order. Once I achieve that, I plan on working on the performance side of things. The first step in that direction is the addition of 1" lowering springs and quality struts, second will be a complete carb rebuild, and then the addition of a replacement head and some port work. Next, I will start building up a mild performance L28 to replace my L24. next in line will be some nice racing seats, a performance coil, new rims and tires, a nice Momo steering wheel and a BRE style rear spolier.

This may provide some use info on valuation of the older Zs. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20123

Bummer man. I was hoping to run into you one day while cruising the cliffs and milk your brain and ride for useful info. Good luck with the sale.

I bought their kit and video. I haven't rebuilt the carbs yet because I'm still working in the suspension, but it looks to be fairly simple. I think the hard part will be learning to tune them using the unisyn device. As for what they're worth, that all depends on the condition they are in, but based on the prices I've seen on eBay, I'd say anywhere from $75 to $150 for what you show in the pic.

I've got the top and bottom mount stoppers in good condition but I can't help with the bushing. It's air pollution now. Fire fire fire! Heheheh

I'm sorry, that's just wrong.

I got them from VicBrit for $20. 2 x P/N#62-360

Unfortunately the bearings and spacers are too few and in the wrong order in this picture. But the rest appears to be accurate.

What I noticed the most was the lack of an air cleaner element, and some nasty rust on the air cleaner body, but I'm sure you'll get to that.

Bummer dude! I hate to think of what I might do if someone molested my Z like that! Good luck getting it back together. Perhaps it's time to consider a gnose conversion?

Hey now.....I was just following your instructions.

What the Japanses couldn't win on the batlefield, they'll win in the boardroom.

The boot comes with metal clamps that you wrap around the boot ends, and the crimp with a standard pair of end cutters available at any hardware store. As for where the grease goes, there are only 4 races for the bearing, as you shove the spacers and bearings down into the opening, some of the grease comes out the bottom by the boot. I insert a spacer, them some grease, then a bearing, then some grease, then a spacer and so on..... The excess grease can be left in the boot, or wiped out if you prefer, but you should have some extra in the boot anyway. Not an excessive amount but enough to keep that end of the shaft lubricated.

Here's an onteresting article on the aerodynamic characteristic of the early Z. Unfortunately it doesn't mention the benefits of the rear spoiler regarding the negative pressure which pulls exhaust fumes inside the cab. in any event, the first step to reducing the exhaust fume problem is checking/replacing the hatch and tail light seals, as well as any holes caused by rust rotted body panels. As for gas fumes, I believe that has been covered for the most part already. In a nutshell is comes down to checking/replacing all the hoses related to the gas tank, including the filler neck tube which is often the problem. As stated earlier, this has been covered ad nauseum in the forums here so do a search and see what you can find. http://zccw.org/Tech/Body/early_aero.asp

No problem. And don't forget to burp the boot prior to pinching the last clamp on. You'll want to put the outer(small) boot clamp on last. Burp it once you have the boot in a neutral position with both ends in the depressions/ridges on the axle shaft. And if your clamps are't the kind that seperate, be sure you put them on the axle before you re-assemble the whole thing or you'll be kicking yourself later.

Ok, here's the pics. Unfortunately I got so frustrated with the assembly process after getting the boot on that I forgot to take more pictures, save one. I may do a write up on this later unless someone beats me to it. I'm ok with that. First, you gotta take it all apart and clean it. To take it apart, all you need is a pair of reversible snap ring pilers that can handle both inner and outer snap rings. If you have or prefer to buy seperate pliers for inner and outer snap rings, you can. At the big end of the assembles shaft, there is a large end cap held on by a large snap ring. Remove the snap ring and them compress the shaft to pop the end cap free. Once the end cap is off, you will see a lot of grease, or maybe not. Clean it off. You will find another snap ring(small) that holds it all together. Remove this and the clover shaped bearing keeper, then seperate the two shafts, being careful to catch all the bearings(12) and plastic spacers(12). Here's the dissasembled shaft. Assuming you;re done cleaing it, it's time to put is all back together. To get the boot on you ahve to turn the boot inside out. If you got a decent pair, this won't hurt them. This is not easy, but it's a lot easier than trying to coax the boot on without doing it this way. Then you just slip the boot down over the top of the inner shaft, and pull it down gently from the bottom being careful not to cut it on the sharp edges of the bearing races/oil channels. Be sure to apply some lube to the shaft before attempting to slip it on. Did I really just say that? :tapemouth Once you have it all the way down, just turn it right side out. that's the easy part. Now comes putting it all back together with grease and all. Unfortunately this was so messy I only got a few pics. Basically, you just add grease, slide one shaft into another, and start adding spacers and bearings until they're all in. NOTE: There is a specific order in which the spacers and bearings must be inserted. Looking at the picture below for a reference, you'll note that the inner flange which faces the diff is on the top, and the outter flange which faces the wheel is at the bottom. Before asembling the two axle halfs, completely fill the bearing races and oil channels with grease. The are 4 bearing races on the outer axle half(bottom), and 8 races/channels on the inside of the inner axle half(top). The additional races are called oil channels. Be sure to align the outer flanges with each other. The should not be opposing. From this perspective, you start by adding a spacer first, then a bearing, spacer, bearing, spacer, bearing. Once complete, replace the inner bearing keeper(clover) and snap ring, fill the end with grease, and replace the end cap and it's snap ring. This is not all inclusive but an over all dissasembly and re-assembly. Enjoy.

I did it by turning the boot inside out and slipping them down over the inner shaft. You have to take them apart to replace the boot, unless you buy one of those cheap bolt together on-car repacements. I took a pic and will updat this post with a URL once I get the pics off the camera.

I once new a guy named Bob Neil, and an auto dealer named Harry Butts.