=Enigma=

Ah, that explains it. I thought it was just a preview.

Glad you got it working. Let see some pics when you're done.

646 MB? Holy crap! Ever hear of compression?

I bet if you put some clear coat on it afterwards it would last a lot longer as well.

I just spent the last few hours, 4.5 to be exact, cleaning and rebuilding and replacing the boots on my half-shafts. I had to tear down and rebuild the first one twice and the second one 4 times before I got it right. I couldn't get the damn things to move freely after re-assembly and extend/compress their full length. And man what a greasy mess! I went through two rolls of paper towels doing the job. Is this process always this painful? Seems simple enough. :dead:

Too funny Mike. I had a good laugh at that comment.

There ya go. That coincides with the diagram I got the above info from. Only mine didn't fold out and was on a single page, nearly requiring me to get out the old magnifying glass to read the wire colors.

I'm not buyin' that one. It's too good to be true.

Ok, I'm looking at my Clymer Manual for 1970-78 240-280Z's, and the diagram for a 1978 280Z w/AT shows the following: 1978 280Z w A/T BR & B -> Downshift Solenoid G & G -> Inhibitor Switch(Reverse) WB & WB -> Inhibitor Switch(Neutral & Park) WB = White w/Black stripe Sorry but I don't have a manual for an 82 280ZX but you can download one at carfiche.com. It's 60MB. I could't find a decent diagram in it though. I hope this helps. Arne, you were right. I wrongly assumed the diagrams at Autozone were complete.

Yup, they move the most stuff along with Jegs so they can offer excellent prices. I got my Energy Suspension Bushing Kit through them.

If you use a quality random orbital unit with speed control, with the right pads and product, the machine method is just as safe and produces better results than doing it by hand. Plus, it leaves more time for doing the rest of the car or whatever else you want. I used to be a firm believer in a good hand job, but now I'd rather be getting one than giving one. So while you're bent over crying about your aching back, feet, hands and arms, I'll be working on my second six pack and shagging the old lady.

As long as you did a good job getting the compound off before you polished.....and you did a good job removing the polish......there is no need to wash it before waxing. Wash away and be happy. It's safe.

I can second what montoya_fan01 said regarding the bump stops, front strut bearings and rear strut spacers. I just ripped everything apart and the bumps stops had the consistency of a dried out brownie. The front strut bearings were fine, as were the rear strut spacers. Too bad I bought new bearings and spacers beforehand........

Get one of these, you'll live longer and have more time to enjoy the car. Machine Wax and Polishing Kit - $199

Sometimes the most obvious choice IS the right one. Remove "A".

^^^^^^^^^^ Link for Wiring Diagrams Above ^^^^^^^^^

Being a newb, I'd have to ask why a manual tranny even has any wires....Just move the lever thingy and go. Check here for wiring diagrams: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/1d/80/0900823d801d1d80.jsp

I love the whine of that turbo. It comes through very clearly in the video. Probably more than IRL.

Wow, that's a lot of dough. I'd love to have a nice quick Z like that but I don't have those kind of resources at my disposal. I hope to build up a nice motor myself, using knowledge gained from various sources and doing whatever work I can do myself to keep the costs down. It's going to take a while but I will soon have a good statrting place with the aquisition of an F54/P79 long block.

But why do that? Sometimes it entertaining to see ppl making asses out of themselves.

That doesn't sound like much fun, but it sure makes for an entertaining mental image. I can almost see the look on your face when the gauges started spewing green fluid. What a mess that must be. Sorry about your troubles. I guess you know what you'll be doing for the weekend.

Very nice Z. If it were mine I'd lose the hood. It just looks out of place with the rest of the lines of the car. And I would put the front bumper back on as well.

I'm nearing completion on my suspension refresh and I'm alrady getting excited about that first drive. I can't wait. Similar deal, new durathane bushings, Tokico reds/HPs, brake system overhaul, everything stripped and painted .

There goes beandip yelling again. Must be the viagra.

I am interested. What condition are they in? Any rips, tears, or holes?