=Enigma=

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be bad plug wires. Once the new wires were on, it was good to go, revving all the way to 6000 and a lot smoother. If you haven't already, check and/or replace your dizzy cap & rotor as well. You'll find the head type on the right side of the head between the #1 and #2 spark plugs, maybe #2 and #3. If it's stock, it will be an E88. Apparently there was more than one version of the E88. Go to the link below to learn more about the various heads, although I'm not sure it details the difference of the various E88's. In a nutshell the differences are due to increasing smog restrictions and include larger combustion chambers and lower compression. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/ Cheers,

The "bumps stops" or rubber bumpers are part of the strut assembly and mount on the piston rod inside the coil pack. The bump stops prevent the strut assembly from bottoming out on the upper spring seat during severe compression. See #4 the image linked below for a visual. Rear Suspension - Bump stop I just purchased a set of KYB strut boots that have a bump stop built into the boot. I prefer these to the harder durathane bump stop that came with my Energy Suspension bushing kit. KYB strut boot . . . .

My guess would be for additional strength.

Great find. I'm loving that last set of pages. Way too funny. The picture on the lower right corner looks like they guy is having a problem with excess flatulence.

Wow, this is just plain silly. Let's all take a deep breath and check our egos at the door. Thanks for the post Alan. Interesting info. I'm sure the originator of this topic will appreciate it, and that's really all that matters at this point.

I think you're missing the point. This is something you do AFTER polishing to preserve the finish and seal the pores of the metal so that you don't have to break out that polisher nearly as often. If you visit the web site they have several magazine articles discussing the use nad benefits of it, however it would be nice to hear from one of our own that it works.

Hey, welcome to the board Dewey. As you've probably seen there is plenty of info and people to help with questions. Most everything has been covered here at least once so a simple search will answer most questions, but feel free to throw them out if there is one you can't find an answer for.

I just saw this stuff on the show Trucks. You can get a kit direct from Zoop that covers 75 sq. ft. for $130 or one that covers 30 sq. ft. for $99. Seems a bit costly but if it lasts for 2-3 yrs. as claimed it might be worth it. http://www.zoopseal.com

Oh my god....................

Welcome to the board Tim. Lots-o-good stuff here. You'll be amazed what you can find with a little searching.

Maybe the two of you shold trade and stop oogling each others wares. Arne, what the heck does the MW stand for on the presets?

Beandip, it seems like you've been doing a fair amount of yelling on the boards lately. Take it easy or you're gonna have to double up on that blood pressure medicine. Life's too short to sweat the small stuff.

I found a rubber EGR block-off cap in the misc/generic parts section in Kragen. You know, the area with all the common but misc pieces/parts by Lisle Co. I used it to cap off the air injection system on my 73 until I have time to remove the whole system and plug up the holes in the manifold. I was like $2.

I purchased my one owner 1973 240Z with 78,000 original miles back in October 2005. VIN# HLS30-156236. Very clean, original paint, always garaged, all original except for the front air dam, performance sway bars, and 5 speed tranny.

Happy B-day beandip. Buy yourself a gift from me. You're welcome buddy.

What's wrong with the door handle?

I'm pretty sure mine are made of asbestos. Not very nice stuff to say the least. I decided to leave it a alone until a later date.

As stated this insulation was added as part of a series of dealer modifications implemented to alleviate starting, stalling and performance problems due to vapor lock and percolation. See the following article for more details on the 3 stage modification kits installed by the dealer to fix the vapor lock issue. The insulation was just one part of this and may have become standard on later models. Dealer Modifications To The 1973 240-Z http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/73Mods.html http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1990&highlight=fuel+fixes

Oh come on Beandip, you gotta give it something for originality. I always loved the 911 Turbo Carerra and the rear end of the Primadonna kinda looks like it was modeled after that. Yes it's not original, but it does look pretty damn sweet, IMHO.

Sounds like you have most of what you need for the front. Yes, there is a bearing that sits atop the front strut. I decided to replace mine while I had it apart. They don't cost all that much. The rear has a spacer instead of a bearing. It's made out of rubber and has probably disintegrated already so you may not even see one in there but it should be replaced as well. As far as I know the only shocks that come with boots are KYBs. I will be installing these same boots, which are available seperately on my Tokico struts. They are $12 each at RockAuto.com. Also, use the search feature on here. Most of this has been covered ad-nauseum.

I suggest checking to make sure the clutch is actually working properly before going out and replacing the tranny. it may be preventing you from shifting into the other gears. Perhaps this fluid actually came from your clutch slave cylinder or the hose attached to it? What color is the fluid? Does it smell really bad or not so bad. Tranny fluid is really stinky and brake/clutch fluid is not so bad. You can check the fluid level in the tranny by removing the fill bolt on the side of the tranny and sticking your finger in there. The level should be even with or just below the opening. You can check your clutch fluid at the resevoir in the engine compartment.

I am nearing the completion of stripping and re-painting all of the suspension components and was wondering if I should go ahead and replace the rear bearings while I have the rear strut removed. I have not disassembled the rear axle assy. The car has 78K original miles and the front bearings look almost new. My dilemma is that I have already re-painted the rear strut and I don't want some machine shop guy hosing my new paint job if it isn't necessary.

Welcome to the board. Restoration can definintely be an enjoyable and rewarding process if you take your time and plan it out in advance. Will you be doing any of the work yourself?

BTW, the A/C system in my car is non-functional and missing the compressor and condenser. I don't need it where I live anyway so I have removed the rec/dryer and will probably remove the evap at some point in the future to give the passenger some more leg room.

Here's some pics of what I believe to be a Nissan Distributor(not a dealer) installed AC system in my '73 240Z. Also, I have a '73 owner's manual which references 240Zs w/AC in tables for vehicle stopping distance, recommended tire size/inflation, and aceleration and passing ability. AC Controls Receiver/Dryer You can see this on the passenger side firewall. http://jaderunner.com/Auto/240Z/images/Purchase/034.JPG Evaporator http://jaderunner.com/Auto/240Z/images/Evaluation/IMG_3574.JPG http://jaderunner.com/Auto/240Z/images/Evaluation/IMG_3576.JPG