=Enigma=

Well I just happened to have one sitting here in front of me so I measured it and it's exactly 7 1/2". Sorry but I didn't have a metric ruler handy. This is from a stock 1973 240Z.

Funny stuff there Wayne!

The thing with the green wires is a Thermo Switch Assembly. This is used to determine when to open/close the EGR valve. One wire is a power lead that normally attaches to the wire loom near the coil. The other end attached to the EGR vacuum control & solenoid(smog stuff). Mine is detached as well. No worries.

I'm not sure but I once saw an L24 with a P30 block in a JY. I think the engine I saw came from an 81-83 Maxima or 810.

IF you;re not seeing white or bluish smoke when you drive it, there's no oil in the water, and no obvioos leaks when it sits, my best guess would be the rear crank seal as well. This should be evident by a drip only when running, possibly even only at higher RPMs, dripping off the bell housing as mentioned above.

Check the connection at the sender. Mine is located on the thermostat housing at the front of the head where the upper radiator hose attaches. You will have either 1 or 2 wires coming out of it depending on the year and what smog equip is till on there. The wire that attaches to it heads off towards the left side of the engine compartment by the coil. Clean ot and make sure you have a good connection. If that doesn't work, you may have to dig deeper but start with the easy stuff.

I'm with you NCZ. If I'm going to take the trouble to tear it all apart, clean and paint it, I'm going to replace any consumable parts in the process. I'd rather not tear into it more than one unless absolutely necessary. Since my Z will be driven for pleasure, and most likely in relative anger at least 30-40% of the time, I don't mind a little stiffer ride. In fact, I'd prefer it so I'm going with poly. Now if this was going to be my daily driver, I would probably preserve a few more of the rubber components. But again, I would replace them with new ones while I'm in there. All that said, most of the bushings in my car were still in acceptable condition, however most were also almost as hard as the poly I will be replacing them with. The only exceptions were the bump stops which literally crumbled when touched, and the rack bushings which were soft due to exposure to engine oil at some point.

What difference could it possibly make having the throttles open? I would think that at such a low RPM count as the starter is capable of producing that there woud be no appreciable difference.

Uhhhhhh.........yeah. Me thinks you are confused.

That's awsome man! Don't feel bad, I'm sure the rest of us noobs are just as likely to make similar mistakes. I cant wait to get my lil' beast out on the track some day. btw, I love my broadband. It took only 16sec to download that 10MB file. Friggin awsome throughput this morning.

Happy Thanksgiving to all. I am thankful for a great many things. My family, my health, my job, to be able to live in such a beautiful place as Santa Cruz, to be free, to be able to vote, to be single again, and so many other things. I am also thankful for all the great information the members contribute to this site and those how keep it running. And lastly of course, my beautiful Z.

Only makes sense if you read it about 10 times. I originally gave each of my pins 3 whacks with the BFH and knew they weren't going to budge without being destroyed in the process, so I PM'd Beandip right away for the tool. A lot better than having to beat the snot out of it with my BFH. It took me 5 min. per side with the proper tool. I can't imagine why it would take more than 15 minutes total to do it with the puller. Your the man Beandip!

That just sound dumb enough to be true.

Sorry Bryan, not all of us are fortunate enough to have an air wrench. The method I described was to benefit those who don't. Shhhhhh.

I had no such sliding problem. Toget the top nut off the strut, be sure you loosen it partially before rmoving the strut from the car. i forgot and had to bolt it back into the car to break it loose. No vise avail.

definitely boobs!

If you don't want to spend the money, you have no business racing.

Yeah, I check all the pics out in your gallery. Real nice job on the rebuild. Actually it's your gallery that inspired me to go forth and do a complete refresh of both the front and rear suspension while I did the springs, shocks and bushings.

I'd be wondering what sort of damage that may have caused to the chassis. Hopefully none. Can't wait to see the pics. I'm in the process of doing the same thing. The painted parts sure do look mighty purty!

I take that back, I just found that my car has only one horn. Now I need to find one. I am missing the passenger side horn. ANyone have a spare?

Thanks for the info Ken. I have the same setup but haven't installed it yet. I have to complete the process of refinishing all the suspension components before I can start putting it all back together. Hopefully I'll be done before Christmas. Sort of an early present to myself. Anyone else have an opinion on this?

Welcome to the fray. Looks like you've got a bit of work to do.

In the installation instructions for my new Tokico springs, it recommends cutting any replacement bumpstops down since the new springs are shorter than stock. In the reference picture it shows 3 bumpstops including one similar to my new Energy Suspension bumpstop. Is this really necessary?

Not at all. Sounds like bull to me. And as Ed rightly points out, when the engine is in the intake stroke, i.e.(sucking) the intake valve is open so there wouldn't be enough vacuum in the cylinder to "suck" oil past the rings. Kragen is not the best place for serious auto maintainence or diagnostic advice. At least not any Kragen I have ever been to.

Isn't "running on" something that women to when they get together on groups? Seriously though, "dieseling" is the term I've always heard used. If I remember back to my high school auto shop days correctly, this is caused by a buildup of carbon in the cylinder or on the valves which remains hot enough after you shut down the engine that it causes any unburned fuel left in the cylinder to burn, keeping the engine going for a moment after you shut it off. The carbon build up is usually due to the car running too rich.