=Enigma=

I saw a really nice looking red 280Z convertible the other day on HWY 85 in San Jose. The only thing I didn't like about it was the shiny gloss back tail light finishing panel. Go with the stock matte grey.

It's not nice to make fun of our easterly brothers there Ron. We can't all get get a sunburn workin' on our cars wearing only shorts in November.

Personally I wouldn't even drive it like that. Looks like you'd probably need to replace both frame rails and one or more floor pans to make it roadworthy. Not sure what it's worth. Personally I'd look for another one but then again I have more choices out here in the West.

In its locked up state, that thing has to be robbing power from your engine. I think you'll find it a bit more peppy once you get it fixed.

Welcome to the board. Definitely round tops, Hitachi made. Looks like the 3 screw wide tab version. Not the stock flat(junk) tops it came with. Check out www.ztherapy.com for more info and parts. Can't see the exhaust well enough to say if there are headers on it.

I believe that would be the same book author he was bashing in a previous post. Looks like he's gone over to the other side now. Just playin with ya Bryan.

That sounds more like it. I was actually surprised how little they cost since you have to by the whole rod instead of just the rod ends like many other cars.

My measurement between the ball joint center and the tie rod end is 4 3/8".

Well I just happened to have one sitting here in front of me so I measured it and it's exactly 7 1/2". Sorry but I didn't have a metric ruler handy. This is from a stock 1973 240Z.

Funny stuff there Wayne!

The thing with the green wires is a Thermo Switch Assembly. This is used to determine when to open/close the EGR valve. One wire is a power lead that normally attaches to the wire loom near the coil. The other end attached to the EGR vacuum control & solenoid(smog stuff). Mine is detached as well. No worries.

I'm not sure but I once saw an L24 with a P30 block in a JY. I think the engine I saw came from an 81-83 Maxima or 810.

IF you;re not seeing white or bluish smoke when you drive it, there's no oil in the water, and no obvioos leaks when it sits, my best guess would be the rear crank seal as well. This should be evident by a drip only when running, possibly even only at higher RPMs, dripping off the bell housing as mentioned above.

Check the connection at the sender. Mine is located on the thermostat housing at the front of the head where the upper radiator hose attaches. You will have either 1 or 2 wires coming out of it depending on the year and what smog equip is till on there. The wire that attaches to it heads off towards the left side of the engine compartment by the coil. Clean ot and make sure you have a good connection. If that doesn't work, you may have to dig deeper but start with the easy stuff.

I'm with you NCZ. If I'm going to take the trouble to tear it all apart, clean and paint it, I'm going to replace any consumable parts in the process. I'd rather not tear into it more than one unless absolutely necessary. Since my Z will be driven for pleasure, and most likely in relative anger at least 30-40% of the time, I don't mind a little stiffer ride. In fact, I'd prefer it so I'm going with poly. Now if this was going to be my daily driver, I would probably preserve a few more of the rubber components. But again, I would replace them with new ones while I'm in there. All that said, most of the bushings in my car were still in acceptable condition, however most were also almost as hard as the poly I will be replacing them with. The only exceptions were the bump stops which literally crumbled when touched, and the rack bushings which were soft due to exposure to engine oil at some point.

What difference could it possibly make having the throttles open? I would think that at such a low RPM count as the starter is capable of producing that there woud be no appreciable difference.

Uhhhhhh.........yeah. Me thinks you are confused.

That's awsome man! Don't feel bad, I'm sure the rest of us noobs are just as likely to make similar mistakes. I cant wait to get my lil' beast out on the track some day. btw, I love my broadband. It took only 16sec to download that 10MB file. Friggin awsome throughput this morning.

Only makes sense if you read it about 10 times. I originally gave each of my pins 3 whacks with the BFH and knew they weren't going to budge without being destroyed in the process, so I PM'd Beandip right away for the tool. A lot better than having to beat the snot out of it with my BFH. It took me 5 min. per side with the proper tool. I can't imagine why it would take more than 15 minutes total to do it with the puller. Your the man Beandip!

That just sound dumb enough to be true.

Sorry Bryan, not all of us are fortunate enough to have an air wrench. The method I described was to benefit those who don't. Shhhhhh.

I had no such sliding problem. Toget the top nut off the strut, be sure you loosen it partially before rmoving the strut from the car. i forgot and had to bolt it back into the car to break it loose. No vise avail.

definitely boobs!

If you don't want to spend the money, you have no business racing.

Yeah, I check all the pics out in your gallery. Real nice job on the rebuild. Actually it's your gallery that inspired me to go forth and do a complete refresh of both the front and rear suspension while I did the springs, shocks and bushings.